User ID wrote:
You dont ADD anything (e.g. "infrared filter"). You need to REMOVE something, specifically the IR BLOCKING filter built into the sensor stack. After that you would quite likely add something, maybe a blue blocking filter (red, yellow, etc) but thaz optional (altho popular).
Software-faked IR is an aesthetic. See if you like it. No big deal that its banned on "real IR sites" if you just want an effect that YOU like for YOUR reasons. Effects are effects. "Real IR" is also just an effect (except for astro).
If you really wanna "join the cult" and do the authentic IR photography, then youd do well to brush up on a little Jr High science stiff.
You dont ADD anything (e.g. "infrared filter&... (
show quote)
That rather depends on the camera. My old Pentax K100d, and the Nikon D70 are both fitted with weak hot mirrors. Add a 720nm filter & about all the camera sees is IR, in some cases the shots will be hand holdable but most of the time exposures will be longer..
Here are a couple of shots with the K100d, with a 720nm filter added:
A hand held panorama (MS ICE & good light )
Infra red Panorama by
Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
more typical spring lighting (needing a tripod)
Ghosts of Clacton 1 by
Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
Other cameras with stronger internal hot mirrors can usually be made to shoot IR with long enough exposures & a good IR filter, IIRC 2 minutes worked with my K7.
With a converted camera the IR contribution is typically similar to normal visual, so a full spectrum conversion might give shutter speeds around half of a visual only camera (in the same daylight, same aperture & ISO setting).
An action shot via a converted camera:
IR BTCC - Neal by
Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
Software based IR is rather like trying to add the blue component of an image based only on the red & green channels. Guessing the sky & water might be practical but the information is not there. Software based IR typically makes green items very bright, as foliage reflects a lot of IR - however I've shot green painted metal items with a converted camera & found they came out near black. The software might get a reasonable approximation for landscapes, but doesn't stand much chance for other applications - such as showing veins in portraits, or viewing through some inks...
All the distracting logo's removed by shooting IR
BTTC grid in IR by
Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
Converted cameras vary wildly. All those I've brought have been 'full spectrum' converted removing the hot mirror & replacing it with quartz or glass (quartz allows the camera to record UV, visual & NIR, glass blocks much of the UV) adding filters to these allows combinations not practical with normal cameras as well as options other conversion might not be able to see. I can take images in UV & IR with little or no visual light (some of my filters add blue in the mix), or red & IR ... To date I've not managed UV only as all affordable UV pass filters leak IR (and the camera is more sensitive to this).
Lens can add another level of complication, some of my Panasonic lenses seem to start blocking IR above about 850nm, so see practically nothing on a converted camera when paired with a 900nm filter, converted cameras usually see up to around 1100nm.