What settings are best when you want various colors of tree lights to produce better? What lens do you use
If you have a tripod, use it. If not, set up something that you can set the camera on securely and use the shutter delay. Either of those options mean that you can use a long exposure, so choose settings that allow you to use ISO 100.
You can do a lot with an image like that in post processing. But the best option is to get a good photo straight out of camera.
clownfish1 wrote:
What settings are best when you want various colors of tree lights to produce better? What lens do you use
Use a tripod or an IS-enabled lens. Process the results or take lots and lots of versions, then select the one(s) you like the best with no processing.
The example reports:
Canon EOS 70D w/ EF-S 24mm f/2.8
1/30 sec at f/5.6, ISO-500, Auto WB
You could use the same settings, above, and just increase the ISO for a 'brighter' image. When I look at the pixel-level details, I'm not sure where you focused, so that's an important consideration too.
Any of your lenses will shot at f/5.6, so picking an IS-enabled lenses lets you work with these settings and probably not needed a tripod, letting you change the ISO and testing various focus points. Also, letting you change your position and perspective, capturing 20+ images. Just review and pick which one your like best, or return to the tree and try 20+ more, until you get what you want.
Your title indicates you are absolutely barking up the wrong tree. This is NOT a camera and lens problem. Its a lighting problem. Just fix the scene lighting ... that is *ALL*.
You already used the correct settings, correct for the scene you shot. If you want to change the result you hafta change the scene, which fortunately is under your control.
Turn on a few not overly powerful room lights to balance things out and then youll get the result you want without need of knowing any technical stuff. Even your phone will do well if you reasonably balance the light in the scene.
There is zeeero "photograhic challenge" here, gearwise. Just fix the scene. Ignore ALL the geeky bad advice about f/stops etc etc. None of that crap matters in the least. Just fix the scene and let a fully auto mode deal with any settings. Guaranteed.
I would use the tripod..........that will let you get a clear image of the lights as you are seeing them. If you do not have an off camera shutter release, set the self timer. Do not touch the camera or tripod until the shutter closes on the camera. No flash.
clownfish1 wrote:
What settings are best when you want various colors of tree lights to produce better? What lens do you use
You don't say what you mean by "better". Is it that the blues, oranges and purples are coming out a bit dark? The reason for that is that the brightness of the bulbs themselves have kept the exposure low. If you try a brighter exposure you'll blow the highlights - which is the bulbs themselves - and you'll end up with detail-less, colourless white blobs.
If exposure bracketing is not something you're comfortable with, your main option is post processing. Using the Shadows slider may get you so far, but the best bet is the HSL tool if you have one. If you do try the HSL tool (or whatever your photo editor's equivalent is), don't over-brighten the colours and remember that when you brighten colours you weaken them so they'll need extra saturation to compensate.
In-camera HDR may be an option for you, but it's jpg only and would still require post processing to get it the way you want.
clownfish1 wrote:
What settings are best when you want various colors of tree lights to produce better? What lens do you use
A bit more exposure then bring up the shadows in PP. Add some color saturation in PP also. If this does not get you what you want, as mentioned, add some ambient room lighting of some kind......I suspect it will be a delicate light/exposure/PP BALANCE to get what you want !
roxiemarty wrote:
I would use the tripod..........that will let you get a clear image of the lights as you are seeing them. If you do not have an off camera shutter release, set the self timer. Do not touch the camera or tripod until the shutter closes on the camera. No flash.
Useless. That will duplicate the posted photo, with which the OP is dissatisfied. There will be no improvement at all.
R.G. wrote:
You don't say what you mean by "better". Is it that the blues, oranges and purples are coming out a bit dark? The reason for that is that the brightness of the bulbs themselves have kept the exposure low. If you try a brighter exposure you'll blow the highlights - which is the bulbs themselves - and you'll end up with detail-less, colourless white blobs.
If exposure bracketing is not something you're comfortable with, your main option is post processing. Using the Shadows slider may get you so far, but the best bet is the HSL tool if you have one. If you do try the HSL tool (or whatever your photo editor's equivalent is), don't over-brighten the colours and remember that when you brighten colours you weaken them so they'll need extra saturation to compensate.
In-camera HDR may be an option for you, but it's jpg only and would still require post processing to get it the way you want.
You don't say what you mean by "better".... (
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No need for geek stuff like HDR. Just turn on some room lights and make a normal shot. EZPZ.
User ID wrote:
No need for geek stuff like HDR. Just turn on some room lights and make a normal shot. EZPZ.
He hasn't specified what he sees as being wrong with the posted pic, but if it's what I suggested - the colour from the lights (but not the lights themselves) being too dark - then brightening the room will just weaken those colours. It's the bulbs that are keeping the exposure low but if he lifts the exposure the bulbs will be washed out. The bulbs are very small points of light, but if he's not willing to accept washed out bulbs (i.e. blown highlights), the best he can hope for is a file that can take a bit of pushing and pulling. HDR would do that and so would bracketing. Failing that, a raw file with some editing is his best option.
R.G. wrote:
He hasn't specified what he sees as being wrong with the posted pic, but if it's what I suggested - the colour from the lights (but not the lights themselves) being too dark - then brightening the room will just weaken those colours. It's the bulbs that are keeping the exposure low but if he lifts the exposure the bulbs will be washed out. The bulbs are very small points of light, but if he's not willing to accept washed out bulbs (i.e. blown highlights), the best he can hope for is a file that can take a bit of pushing and pulling. HDR would do that and so would bracketing. Failing that, a raw file with some editing is his best option.
He hasn't specified what he sees as being wrong wi... (
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That is why I said it would be a delicate BALANCE ......of a combination of things ...Trial and error may be his best friend. Nothing wrong with "geeking" - if that is what it takes !
User ID wrote:
Useless. That will duplicate the posted photo, with which the OP is dissatisfied. There will be no improvement at all.
A tripod would allow for lower ISO and a longer exposure. But whatever you say.
roxiemarty wrote:
A tripod would allow for lower ISO and a longer exposure....
A valid point. Canons were never the best when it came to ISO noise, especially the older ones.
I agree with user ID here:
The problem is that the camera is exposing for the light bulbs, (which may still be clipping)
That leaves everything else , like the dark green tree and the room hopelessly dark.
Here is what I would advise, with the camera on a tripod, note the current exposure and set that in Manual mode.
Then try adding room light or flash before adjusting exposure. If you get close then you can refine with more or less exposure. You are trying to balance a light source (light bulbs) with ambient light.
When you get an exposure that is better, go to post processing and try burning in individual light bulbs , if saturation increases with burning the light bulbs are still clipping (which means they need LESS exposure) which also means the Ambient needs more light.
Trying to photograph a light source is a balance between not clipping the light source and ADDING enough ambient light to get the effect you ate looking for.
Think about it this way, the 'correct ' exposure for the Bulbs, Guarantees under exposure for everything else, which is why you need to add light.
I hope this helps
R.G. wrote:
He hasn't specified what he sees as being wrong with the posted pic, but if it's what I suggested - the colour from the lights (but not the lights themselves) being too dark - then brightening the room will just weaken those colours. It's the bulbs that are keeping the exposure low but if he lifts the exposure the bulbs will be washed out. The bulbs are very small points of light, but if he's not willing to accept washed out bulbs (i.e. blown highlights), the best he can hope for is a file that can take a bit of pushing and pulling. HDR would do that and so would bracketing. Failing that, a raw file with some editing is his best option.
He hasn't specified what he sees as being wrong wi... (
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Dont make it so complicated. This is a dirt simple easy job. Just add some room lights and expose to taste. There will be 2 or 3 or more versions competing for "best".
No need to guess what is deficient in the posted photo. Its quite obvious.
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