Sharper photos with a handheld?
Sep 2, 2011 03:59:31 #
Usually when im out shooting im with my four children ranging from 4 mon-6yrs i for obvious reasons cannot drag around a tripod,any advice how to take sharper photos with a handheld camera?
thanks hila
thanks hila
Sep 2, 2011 07:37:50 #
photocat
Loc: Atlanta, Ga
Faster shutter speeds.
Rule of thumb, shutter speed should be faster than the longest focal length on the lens your using.
I.E. if the lens is a 18-2oomm lens, shutter speeds needs to be 1/250 or faster.
You can also use servo focus mode which should help keep them in focus.
Rule of thumb, shutter speed should be faster than the longest focal length on the lens your using.
I.E. if the lens is a 18-2oomm lens, shutter speeds needs to be 1/250 or faster.
You can also use servo focus mode which should help keep them in focus.
Sep 2, 2011 08:46:58 #
Sep 2, 2011 10:46:08 #
If you are indoors also consider using a camera flash to freeze action.
Sep 2, 2011 10:48:35 #
I just recently was on a horse pack trip and my shots on the horse were of course blurred. I use a Cannon EOS xti digi...I guess I should have switched to manual and shot at faster shutter speeds? Darn..
Sep 2, 2011 12:31:03 #
All good advice... here's some more.
There is a "Zen" in photography when it comes to holding any camera. The photographer must assess the shooting condition, such as the kinetic movement of the car, boat, horse, rollercoaster, and what not, all of which have a rhythmic cycle, where a fleeting moment within that cycle is still, motionless. It is at this moment the shutter is released.
Then, in more normal conditions... the photographer must be divorced from the emotion of a scene. This steadies the hands, allows for better, continuously improving composition, and, in studying the scene, whether still or in motion, there is a moment when time and composition become the exposure.
Finally, in holding the camera, the photographer strives to achieve "steady hands" which is a conscious effort to render the camera motionless at the time of exposure. Bringing the elbows in to the body, using the wall, the chair, the floor, the tree for bracing, and being fully aware of the limitations of the shooting condition...
...all these things create the photographic "zen" which becomes the craft of candid and most other photography.
Pardon the esoteric blurb... but this stuff works.
There is a "Zen" in photography when it comes to holding any camera. The photographer must assess the shooting condition, such as the kinetic movement of the car, boat, horse, rollercoaster, and what not, all of which have a rhythmic cycle, where a fleeting moment within that cycle is still, motionless. It is at this moment the shutter is released.
Then, in more normal conditions... the photographer must be divorced from the emotion of a scene. This steadies the hands, allows for better, continuously improving composition, and, in studying the scene, whether still or in motion, there is a moment when time and composition become the exposure.
Finally, in holding the camera, the photographer strives to achieve "steady hands" which is a conscious effort to render the camera motionless at the time of exposure. Bringing the elbows in to the body, using the wall, the chair, the floor, the tree for bracing, and being fully aware of the limitations of the shooting condition...
...all these things create the photographic "zen" which becomes the craft of candid and most other photography.
Pardon the esoteric blurb... but this stuff works.
Shakey, Vibraty Ultralight Plane for a Shooting Platform
Sep 3, 2011 00:21:40 #
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
All good advice... here's some more. br br There ... (show quote)
It's also very similar to gun target shooting. You didn't mention it but I suspect you probably use breath control and a wide-spread-feet (maybe with one slightly ahead of the other) stance.
Mar 20, 2012 23:09:14 #
I'll have to remember the longest focal length rule......
i also set the auto shutter release to 2 sec.( so i take my trigger finger out of the equation.)
i also set the auto shutter release to 2 sec.( so i take my trigger finger out of the equation.)
Mar 21, 2012 00:41:42 #
photocat wrote:
Faster shutter speeds.
Rule of thumb, shutter speed should be faster than the longest focal length on the lens your using.
I.E. if the lens is a 18-2oomm lens, shutter speeds needs to be 1/250 or faster.
You can also use servo focus mode which should help keep them in focus.
Rule of thumb, shutter speed should be faster than the longest focal length on the lens your using.
I.E. if the lens is a 18-2oomm lens, shutter speeds needs to be 1/250 or faster.
You can also use servo focus mode which should help keep them in focus.
Good rule to follow.
You almost got it.
It should read: 1 over the focal length you have your lens set to. If you lens is at 200mm, set your shutter no slower than 1/200th. If it's 60mm you're using, use no slower than 1/60th, etc.
VR or IS changes the equasion.
Some are better than others.
Mar 21, 2012 01:49:24 #
Contunued from above..
This was a good rule to follow with 35mm cameras.
I'll put this out there for you to chew on:
I believe this camera shake rule of thumb is based on magnification. Seems like it makes sense to apply the crop factor to it for DX sensor cameras. A 200mm lens acts like a 300 on a DX sensor so you souldn't go below 1/300th. I know I'm probably overthinking this, but I can't sleep.
This was a good rule to follow with 35mm cameras.
I'll put this out there for you to chew on:
I believe this camera shake rule of thumb is based on magnification. Seems like it makes sense to apply the crop factor to it for DX sensor cameras. A 200mm lens acts like a 300 on a DX sensor so you souldn't go below 1/300th. I know I'm probably overthinking this, but I can't sleep.
Mar 21, 2012 02:06:34 #
All good ideas: breath control, stance, proper shutter speed, Zen-like state of peace, etc.
Add two more: keep your elbows close to your body, and CRADLE the lens in your left hand instead of reaching over the top or holding it like a teacup.
Add two more: keep your elbows close to your body, and CRADLE the lens in your left hand instead of reaching over the top or holding it like a teacup.
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