Italy: Cinque Terra Part 2 - Porto Venere Street Scenes
Oct 20, 2023 17:36:29 #
After checking in to The Grand Hotel Portovenere, Gail and I took a leisurely walk around the harbor and the old town. Here's another interesting article which describes the town well.
A Guide to Portovenere Italy – Liguria’s Lesser-Known Jewel
Portovenere (also known as Porto Venere) is the Italian Riviera’s hidden secret. Sure, the locals know its charms well, but all too often it gets overlooked by visitors who flock to the glitzy Portofino, or the colourful villages of Cinque Terre.
Beloved by poets and artists, Portovenere is a feast for the eyes. A place to swim, sunbathe, and stroll among natural wonders, while taking in the impressive historical structures that surround you.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’ll win you over from the first glance, and linger in your memories for years to come. Read on to find out why, exactly, Portovenere Italy is so incredible, and how you can enjoy it for yourself.
Located on the Ligurian Coast, Portovenere lies tantalizingly close to both La Spezia and the villages of the Cinque Terre. Because of this proximity to the top sights of the Italian Riviera, it makes an excellent base to explore the area.
There are three main ways to get to Portovenere from La Spezia. By car, bus, or boat. Unfortunately, there is no train to Portovenere from La Spezia. Instead, the train service bypasses the town and heads directly to the Cinque Terre. Perhaps this contributes to why Portovenere is often overlooked (unfairly) on Cinque Terre itineraries.
One of the most popular ways to travel to Portovenere from La Spezia is via the bus. The journey only takes around 35 minutes and costs €3.
Another option is to take a boat to Portovenere from La Spezia. But do note that the service only operates from March to November.
Ferries depart from the terminal behind the pubic gardens. You’ll be able to spot the 5Terre ticket stand easily.
Ferries are scheduled at regular intervals throughout the morning, starting at 9:15 am. The last return ferry departs Portovenere at 6.20 pm.
If you’re only planning on spending one day in Portovenere, I’d recommend taking the first ferry of the day.
Tickets currently cost €13 return, or you can buy a full day Cinque Terre ferry pass for €35 which allows you to visit the villages also (keep in mind this would be a tightly packed day of sightseeing!).
If you have a car available in Italy, driving to Portovenere from La Spezia is a straightforward option too. Just be sure to arrive early if visiting in summer in order to secure a car park.
Best Things to do in Portovenere, Italy
From sunning yourself on stunning beaches to climbing craggy cliffs, or sightseeing in ancient alleyways, find out what to do in Portovenere, Italy, here.
Take a Wander Through the Old Town
Wander through the Porta del Borgo into the medieval centre of Portovenere where you’ll find a tightly packed maze of streets interlinked by stone staircases.
The main street, Via Giovanni Capellini, is a narrow passage flanked by gelatarias, boutiques, and souvenir shops. You’ll also find a few low key places to eat like La Bottega del Pesto who serve up fresh pasta with homemade pesto to-go.
Follow your nose through the streets, and you’ll soon find that the number of sightseers dramatically dwindles as you get off the main alley.
Take the stairs down to the waterfront, or take them up to the San Lorenzo Church. You’ll also find hidden courtyards and gardens as you climb.
Keep walking past the San Lorenzo Church and you’ll inevitably find yourself looking up at the Castello Doria. An impressive structure that frames the village below, it has stood in this spot since the 12th century, but has undergone many transformations since.
You can admire the castle’s exterior, and pause for a picnic in the shady grassed area out front, or pay a small entrance fee to see within its walls.
At the tip of the town, the Church of Saint Peter makes a statement as it stands tall on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Bay of Poets. Pop inside to view the rustic interior, but be aware that this church is still used for ceremonies today.
Next to the church, the loggia of San Pietro offers spectacular views over the bay and beyond. Inside, this view is framed by arched stone windows. But you can also take a narrow staircase to the roof for uninterrupted viewing too.
On your way down the quay, towards the Church of Saint Peter, you’ll find a doorway that will lead you to Byron’s Grotto.
This swimming spot was a favourite of the late poet, Lord Byron, who used to swim and meditate here in the early 1800s.
Nowadays it is beloved by the locals and visitors alike, who drape themselves over the uncompromising rocks, and swim in the secluded bay.
It’s also a popular spot for snorkeling, so take your mask and flippers if you’re planning on visiting this special place.
From the port of Portovenere, several boat tours are available, including the ferry from Portovenere to Cinque Terre.
But if you’re planning on visiting the five villages another day, a great option for a short sojourn on the water is to take a tour of the three islands.
The tour takes in Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto during a whirlwind 40 minute trip. Unfortunately, the commentary is only offered in Italian (from my experience) but if you’re content to whiz around the islands in the sun, it’s still interesting to see the cliffs, caves and Torre Scuola up close.
Portovenere’s waterside promenade is where you’ll find the most action during your trip to Portovenere. Starting at the beach, the waterfront stretches out before you, its tall colourful buildings denoting the abrupt transition between the sea and civilistaion.
All along the promenade, cafe menus tempt you with their offerings, while storefronts spill their wares out onto the pavement. On the other side, young Ligurian’s bake themselves in the sun as they meet on the seafront rocks and piers.
Take the stairs from the main piazza, and you’ll find yourself behind the village walls. It’s here after a steep climb, that you’ll find a pathway cutting through the thick vegetation up the hillside.
Pause at the last clearing to catch your breath and admire the incredible views over Saint Peter’s Church and island of Palmaria. It’s absolutely breathtaking, and a vantage point that many miss out on.
From here, you can keep climbing, this time under the welcome shade of the bush, to the Forte del Muzzerone. The fort itself is inaccessible, but follow the path a little further and you’ll find the Muzzerone Central Wall which offers an amazing view and an unparalleled climbing spot.
Interested in an adventure while in Portovenere? Whether you’re an experienced climber or not, the cliffs surrounding the fishing village offer the ultimate adrenaline junkies playground!
Itineraries will be catered to your skill and comfort level, with more capable climbers tackling the Muzzerone cliffs! What an amazing way to experience the beauty of the Ligurian coast.
If you’re staying a little while in Portovenere, put aside a day to spend on Palmaria Island. The biggest of the three islands in the Bay of Poets, it’s scarcely inhabited, and largely remains in its natural state, making it perfect for outdoor activities.
Take the ferry from the port (or directly from La Spezia if staying there), and spend the day swimming at the untouched beaches, gorging on fresh seafood at the trattorias, or hiking through the rugged terrain.
Do be aware that some of the island is under military control, but inaccessible areas are clearly marked. Allow about 2 hours to trek the perimeter, but much longer if you plan on visiting the secluded beaches of Terrizo, Gabbiani or Pozzale.
Ideally, you’d spend at least one full day in Portovenere to appreciate the old town, attractions, and beaches on offer. However, staying longer will allow you to take your time savouring this special area of Liguria. As previously mentioned, you could also make Portovenere your base for exploring the Cinque Terre, La Spezia, and islands off the coast.
Best Time to Visit Porto Venere
Like any popular destination in Italy, Portovenere is busier in the summer months, particularly in the months of July & August when most European families are on holiday.
If you still want to take advantage of the warmer weather, I’d suggest aiming for June, or September-early October. It’ll still be busy at these times, but less so than the peak.
If the weather isn’t so much of a concern, aim for April – May, or late October. During these times, ferries will still be operating, but the tourists will be far fewer. You could, of course, visit in winter, but expect many establishments to be closed.
Porto Venere, Italy is an immensely charming village with a surprisingly diverse range of activities on offer. Whether you’re visiting on a quick whirlwind trip of the Cinque Terre, or enjoying a luxuriously long break on the Ligurian Coast, you’re sure to find plenty to keep you captivated.
https://www.lelongweekend.com/portovenere-italy/
For additional images from the drive through La Spezia and Porto Venere, please see my previous posts:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-789349-1.html#14224070
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-789440-1.html#14226109
I hope you enjoy these!
Mark
A Guide to Portovenere Italy – Liguria’s Lesser-Known Jewel
Portovenere (also known as Porto Venere) is the Italian Riviera’s hidden secret. Sure, the locals know its charms well, but all too often it gets overlooked by visitors who flock to the glitzy Portofino, or the colourful villages of Cinque Terre.
Beloved by poets and artists, Portovenere is a feast for the eyes. A place to swim, sunbathe, and stroll among natural wonders, while taking in the impressive historical structures that surround you.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’ll win you over from the first glance, and linger in your memories for years to come. Read on to find out why, exactly, Portovenere Italy is so incredible, and how you can enjoy it for yourself.
Located on the Ligurian Coast, Portovenere lies tantalizingly close to both La Spezia and the villages of the Cinque Terre. Because of this proximity to the top sights of the Italian Riviera, it makes an excellent base to explore the area.
There are three main ways to get to Portovenere from La Spezia. By car, bus, or boat. Unfortunately, there is no train to Portovenere from La Spezia. Instead, the train service bypasses the town and heads directly to the Cinque Terre. Perhaps this contributes to why Portovenere is often overlooked (unfairly) on Cinque Terre itineraries.
One of the most popular ways to travel to Portovenere from La Spezia is via the bus. The journey only takes around 35 minutes and costs €3.
Another option is to take a boat to Portovenere from La Spezia. But do note that the service only operates from March to November.
Ferries depart from the terminal behind the pubic gardens. You’ll be able to spot the 5Terre ticket stand easily.
Ferries are scheduled at regular intervals throughout the morning, starting at 9:15 am. The last return ferry departs Portovenere at 6.20 pm.
If you’re only planning on spending one day in Portovenere, I’d recommend taking the first ferry of the day.
Tickets currently cost €13 return, or you can buy a full day Cinque Terre ferry pass for €35 which allows you to visit the villages also (keep in mind this would be a tightly packed day of sightseeing!).
If you have a car available in Italy, driving to Portovenere from La Spezia is a straightforward option too. Just be sure to arrive early if visiting in summer in order to secure a car park.
Best Things to do in Portovenere, Italy
From sunning yourself on stunning beaches to climbing craggy cliffs, or sightseeing in ancient alleyways, find out what to do in Portovenere, Italy, here.
Take a Wander Through the Old Town
Wander through the Porta del Borgo into the medieval centre of Portovenere where you’ll find a tightly packed maze of streets interlinked by stone staircases.
The main street, Via Giovanni Capellini, is a narrow passage flanked by gelatarias, boutiques, and souvenir shops. You’ll also find a few low key places to eat like La Bottega del Pesto who serve up fresh pasta with homemade pesto to-go.
Follow your nose through the streets, and you’ll soon find that the number of sightseers dramatically dwindles as you get off the main alley.
Take the stairs down to the waterfront, or take them up to the San Lorenzo Church. You’ll also find hidden courtyards and gardens as you climb.
Keep walking past the San Lorenzo Church and you’ll inevitably find yourself looking up at the Castello Doria. An impressive structure that frames the village below, it has stood in this spot since the 12th century, but has undergone many transformations since.
You can admire the castle’s exterior, and pause for a picnic in the shady grassed area out front, or pay a small entrance fee to see within its walls.
At the tip of the town, the Church of Saint Peter makes a statement as it stands tall on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Bay of Poets. Pop inside to view the rustic interior, but be aware that this church is still used for ceremonies today.
Next to the church, the loggia of San Pietro offers spectacular views over the bay and beyond. Inside, this view is framed by arched stone windows. But you can also take a narrow staircase to the roof for uninterrupted viewing too.
On your way down the quay, towards the Church of Saint Peter, you’ll find a doorway that will lead you to Byron’s Grotto.
This swimming spot was a favourite of the late poet, Lord Byron, who used to swim and meditate here in the early 1800s.
Nowadays it is beloved by the locals and visitors alike, who drape themselves over the uncompromising rocks, and swim in the secluded bay.
It’s also a popular spot for snorkeling, so take your mask and flippers if you’re planning on visiting this special place.
From the port of Portovenere, several boat tours are available, including the ferry from Portovenere to Cinque Terre.
But if you’re planning on visiting the five villages another day, a great option for a short sojourn on the water is to take a tour of the three islands.
The tour takes in Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto during a whirlwind 40 minute trip. Unfortunately, the commentary is only offered in Italian (from my experience) but if you’re content to whiz around the islands in the sun, it’s still interesting to see the cliffs, caves and Torre Scuola up close.
Portovenere’s waterside promenade is where you’ll find the most action during your trip to Portovenere. Starting at the beach, the waterfront stretches out before you, its tall colourful buildings denoting the abrupt transition between the sea and civilistaion.
All along the promenade, cafe menus tempt you with their offerings, while storefronts spill their wares out onto the pavement. On the other side, young Ligurian’s bake themselves in the sun as they meet on the seafront rocks and piers.
Take the stairs from the main piazza, and you’ll find yourself behind the village walls. It’s here after a steep climb, that you’ll find a pathway cutting through the thick vegetation up the hillside.
Pause at the last clearing to catch your breath and admire the incredible views over Saint Peter’s Church and island of Palmaria. It’s absolutely breathtaking, and a vantage point that many miss out on.
From here, you can keep climbing, this time under the welcome shade of the bush, to the Forte del Muzzerone. The fort itself is inaccessible, but follow the path a little further and you’ll find the Muzzerone Central Wall which offers an amazing view and an unparalleled climbing spot.
Interested in an adventure while in Portovenere? Whether you’re an experienced climber or not, the cliffs surrounding the fishing village offer the ultimate adrenaline junkies playground!
Itineraries will be catered to your skill and comfort level, with more capable climbers tackling the Muzzerone cliffs! What an amazing way to experience the beauty of the Ligurian coast.
If you’re staying a little while in Portovenere, put aside a day to spend on Palmaria Island. The biggest of the three islands in the Bay of Poets, it’s scarcely inhabited, and largely remains in its natural state, making it perfect for outdoor activities.
Take the ferry from the port (or directly from La Spezia if staying there), and spend the day swimming at the untouched beaches, gorging on fresh seafood at the trattorias, or hiking through the rugged terrain.
Do be aware that some of the island is under military control, but inaccessible areas are clearly marked. Allow about 2 hours to trek the perimeter, but much longer if you plan on visiting the secluded beaches of Terrizo, Gabbiani or Pozzale.
Ideally, you’d spend at least one full day in Portovenere to appreciate the old town, attractions, and beaches on offer. However, staying longer will allow you to take your time savouring this special area of Liguria. As previously mentioned, you could also make Portovenere your base for exploring the Cinque Terre, La Spezia, and islands off the coast.
Best Time to Visit Porto Venere
Like any popular destination in Italy, Portovenere is busier in the summer months, particularly in the months of July & August when most European families are on holiday.
If you still want to take advantage of the warmer weather, I’d suggest aiming for June, or September-early October. It’ll still be busy at these times, but less so than the peak.
If the weather isn’t so much of a concern, aim for April – May, or late October. During these times, ferries will still be operating, but the tourists will be far fewer. You could, of course, visit in winter, but expect many establishments to be closed.
Porto Venere, Italy is an immensely charming village with a surprisingly diverse range of activities on offer. Whether you’re visiting on a quick whirlwind trip of the Cinque Terre, or enjoying a luxuriously long break on the Ligurian Coast, you’re sure to find plenty to keep you captivated.
https://www.lelongweekend.com/portovenere-italy/
For additional images from the drive through La Spezia and Porto Venere, please see my previous posts:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-789349-1.html#14224070
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-789440-1.html#14226109
I hope you enjoy these!
Mark
Gail along the harbor promenade
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Oct 20, 2023 17:37:14 #
Oct 20, 2023 17:50:56 #
Oct 20, 2023 17:55:12 #
Oct 20, 2023 18:39:08 #
NPSlover
Loc: Woodbury Minnesota
I'm not sure how to better identify one particular image in the set, but I want to comment on the fifth shot (at least in the order I see them)...
I've never been to Italy, but someday hope to. To me, that is quintessential Italy... colorful buildings, right on the sea, a gathering place for locals dining alfresco and enjoying beautiful weather. To me, it illustrates a peaceful calm that is still alive with the boisterousness of Italy. You captured that all in one shot. Nicely done!
I've never been to Italy, but someday hope to. To me, that is quintessential Italy... colorful buildings, right on the sea, a gathering place for locals dining alfresco and enjoying beautiful weather. To me, it illustrates a peaceful calm that is still alive with the boisterousness of Italy. You captured that all in one shot. Nicely done!
Oct 20, 2023 18:48:35 #
NPSlover wrote:
I'm not sure how to better identify one particular image in the set, but I want to comment on the fifth shot (at least in the order I see them)...
I've never been to Italy, but someday hope to. To me, that is quintessential Italy... colorful buildings, right on the sea, a gathering place for locals dining alfresco and enjoying beautiful weather. To me, it illustrates a peaceful calm that is still alive with the boisterousness of Italy. You captured that all in one shot. Nicely done!
I've never been to Italy, but someday hope to. To me, that is quintessential Italy... colorful buildings, right on the sea, a gathering place for locals dining alfresco and enjoying beautiful weather. To me, it illustrates a peaceful calm that is still alive with the boisterousness of Italy. You captured that all in one shot. Nicely done!
Thank you so much for your kind comments NP. Portovenere was certainly what you describe as "quintessential Italy" and a welcome respite from the boisterousness of Florence. Unfortunately, the peaceful calm was broken in some of the Cinque Terra tourist towns as you will see but they were still beautiful.
Oct 20, 2023 18:54:56 #
Oct 20, 2023 18:55:53 #
Oct 20, 2023 19:31:04 #
Really nice, Mark. I'm glad Gail finally showed up! Thanks for the narrative, too.
Oct 20, 2023 19:33:50 #
kpmac wrote:
Really nice, Mark. I'm glad Gail finally showed up! Thanks for the narrative, too.
Thanks very much Ken. Hard to get good shots of her on the bus sitting next to me.
Oct 20, 2023 21:16:18 #
Oct 21, 2023 00:46:45 #
srfmhg wrote:
After checking in to The Grand Hotel Portovenere, ... (show quote)
Great set Mark. It looks like a place we should visit on one of our future trips to Italy.
Oct 21, 2023 07:20:09 #
Wonderful set, Mark. Love the harbor scenes. When I remember Cinque Terre, I picture your #4 & 5 compositions. Loved seeing Gail on the promenade, beautiful. 😊
Oct 21, 2023 07:42:17 #
Oct 21, 2023 07:46:19 #
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