alphadog

I have been doing this a relatively long time, first off, I am BLESSED we are talking here about getting the sharp images with a new lens, NOT how I am doing after chemo... so putting this into perspective, imo, this image should be sharper based on my experience taking similar images... I will be working on all the possible fixes... my frustration is from perfectly sharp to NOT as sharp at this time. Thank you for your comments, the are appreciated.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

There are several problems with the way you captured these images. I will address the 800e image.

Cropping - If you are going to crop, why not just record the Dx crop in the camera? You are going to discard a lot of pixels anyhow. That will convert the 500mm lens to a 750mm equivalent without risking any degradation from the TC. The TC drops the exposure by a full stop (1.4 indicates the 1 stop difference, not the crop factor) and it actually has the same effect as the Dx crop. It was intended for film cameras where you could not get a Dx crop from the camera. Cropping magnifies all of the problems that might otherwise be less apparent. Where practical, it's better to just move 1/3 closer to the subject.

Exposure - The image is underexposed. That means more noise. The bird is in broad daylight so you don't need Auto ISO. Even based on Sunny 16 the underexposure is about 1.7 stops, as much as 3 stops if you consider that the bird is dark.

ISO - Way too high for daylight and it leads you to use less exposure. You probably won't see noise at ISO 400.

Aperture - f/16 is much too small. With the TC or a Dx crop it effectively becomes f/22. Even without the TC you will start to see diffraction without cropping the image. With the TC it will begin around f/8 and with heavy cropping you would need to start with an even wider aperture.

Shutter speed - Even if you were handholding you probably would not need the shutter speed to be faster than 1/1000s. A tripod helps and, since you are taking the time to get the shot, why not take a continuous series and discard any that show camera shake.

The more care you take capturing the image means much less cleanup later in PP.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I see you used Auto ISO, in this case your camera auto iso would read the sky and exposed for that instead of the hawk.
My advice would be to use manual exposure on the bird.
And if you want more detail, get rid of the 1.4 tele and use the APS crop mode on your camera instead.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Not quite. It’s actually a 1.4 crop factor as well.

mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

You are not comparing apples to apples. You insisted it was the equipment's fault in your previous thread, but after the tech inspected your equipment, all was fine.

Why don't you adjust your technique. Shoot a hawk at f7.1, 1/1250, ISO 200 and similar distance from the bird ---- THEN compare the results? It appears that you are over-editing to cover up poor set-up choices.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

I can't think of any reason to shoot at f/16 in these conditions. You will solve a lot if issues by just shooting wide open and adjust your other parameters accordingly.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Maybe you should have kept the Canon, and put a 400mm f4 DO lens on a 80 or 90D - like I am doing......

I imagine the older 800E Nikon is somewhat sensitive to high ISO's - this can and should be managed closely ! - especially when making these tremendously large crops ! 8-(

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Using a long tele is like eating fish, you just have to be careful. Magnification along is enough to deteriorate the quality of an image.
I would say careful focus and exposure, an electronic shutter release and a steady tripod are your best friends.

photoman43

I agree. I suggest you download Nikon NXStudio, the free software from Nikon. That way you can see all of the shooting data as well as the AF focus point (assuming you do not focus and recompose).

I use my 500mm f5.6 pf and 1.4x tc all the time on a tripod with my Z9, D850 and D500. For hand held I usually do not use the 1.4x tc. I used to own a D 810 and used the same combo on it and always had good results.

For static bird shots, in good light, I lowered the shutter speed to about 1/500 and set the aperture at f 7.1(no tc) and at f9 or f9.5. I rarely ever use a higher (smaller) aperture for this type of subject.

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

Beautiful results, and 90% of my bird shots are of subjects on top of utility poles, so I really love this
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

alphadog

Friend, your good intentions are appreciated, I have been at this for a LONG time... I am now working with a few UHH responders to correct camera settings. First off I only shoot with the TC on, so your rec of f7.1 is incorrect, the lowest f-stop possible is F8.. and as to your other suggestions, thanks for your input.

alphadog

Ok now I have NXStudio. How do I open it up and what is it you are looking for with this software?

It is very encouraging to hear YOU have gotten good results with the bodies listed. I hope I can as well.

Attached are two images from this morning, with TC on Tripod, one in A mode, one in M mode
A mode: 1/350, f8, ISO 200
M mode: 1/500, f8, iso 200
Unprocessed, reduced in size to get on UHH only.

thanks for any constructive help, this is now a 3-day work in progress.

(Download)

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

For unprocessed text on a gas can, looks great! Now, transfer this to wildlife.