Basil Loc: New Mexico

I have the iOptron Sky Guider Pro. I really like it a lot but then I’ve not used any others to compare. I strongly urge you to check out Peter Zelinka’s channel. This video he talks about the tracker I have, but check his channel because he has videos that compare different trackers etc.

https://youtu.be/jssf2ffHYbc

jcboy3

As long as you are going to use fast wide angle primes for your shooting, I recommend looking at Move Shoot Move. Get the tracker and the smartphone adapter (which makes approximate polar alignment a breeze; not completely accurate but a great substitute).

Then get the tables for Milky Way visibility from capturetheatlas.com, and a couple of smartphone apps for use with the MSM tracker.

Not a huge investment (a few hundred). To make your pics stand out, pay attention to what's on the ground. Maybe do a workshop.

MDI Mainer

I concur that the Move-Shoot-Move star tracker works fine with a fast wide-angle lens, but it's not for a big tele lens, or a bulky old DSLR for that matter. And it's very reasonably priced (as far as trackers go).

https://www.moveshootmove.com/collections/move-shoot-move-rotator/products/msm-rotator-for-star-tracking-time-lapse-panorama-photography

In lieu of a star tracker, you can use image stacking software to combine multiple shots into a single image. You can do this manually in Photoshop, but I'd recommend dedicated software such as DeepSkyStacker. In some ways this is an easier route, since you don't have to worry about aligning the tracker with Polaris.

https://astrobackyard.com/astrophotography-image-stacking-software/

There are plenty of free or nominal-cost video tutorials available. I can recommend the astrophotography course from

https://learn.iphotography.com/

Lastly, this book is a good resource if you prefer written materials:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1594858381/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

The easiest stacker SW that has little or no learning curve is sequator. And its free.
See: https://sites.google.com/view/sequator/
Lots of YouTube Videos can be found on using it such as: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZtoX5aBI8E

Canisdirus

You are on vacation with your family...

Buy the star tracker...now...so you can become familiar with it.

The tracker removes a heck of a lot of time and work on your part manually.

So...you can be standing in the dark...timing everything...the process to get really good images is complicated...lots of shots...with processing time in between...with extra shots of complete darkness.

Or...you can set up the tracker...sit back and have a beer...be with your family...on your vacation.

GLSmith Loc: Tampa, Fl

Start with the Rule of 500 or better yet the NPF Rule.

Take the camera body(s) you plan on using, tripod & lens(es) find a place that is as dark as possible & experiment. Keep a note pad with what each lens on what specific body is capable of time wise with out blurring. Key word of advice...backUp batteries.., & depending on your temperature...hand warmers & rubber bands to hold them in place on the lens barrel, remote shutter switch...
Look into "focusonstars.com"...I'm not saying to buy it

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

AT- With high quality fast lenses and good tripod you can accomplish a great deal at moderately high iso s like 1600 and 3200. Most of Wyoming offers remarkably dark skies, especially if you are coming from the East coast. Trackers do allow you to capture even more detail at lesser noise levels. For wider images they are fairly easy to set up but if you are trying to use longer lenses to get deep sky objects they become highly fiddly. If combining terrestial objects with the sky then you can easily get a 1 stop advantage, beyond that you will be needing to invest additional time at the computer.

I support your preliminary decision not to go this route. Note...if you use a higher resolution body, alter the exposure rule described by others to the 300-350 range. The camera will resolve and record far more than what your eyes can see. If you hear any chatter about northern lights being active try a 10 sec exposure facing north/northeast wide open at 1600/3200 and see if the camera picks up anything unusual.

Night images are a lot of fun to play with. Strikingly fewer crowds. Even half a moon will really illuminate the scene. You will be able to record some scenes even just by starlight. Be open to light from Jupiter casting shadows. Focussing skills are critical! You should practice using live view to focus on very dim distant light sources before the trip. Everything needs to be on manual, including white balance. For heavens sake, shoot RAW.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

If you’re only looking at shooting celestial bodies then a tracker is handy, but I think the best Milky Way shots are those that incorporate landscape features in the foreground. For those you don’t want a tracker. You’ll want a fairly wide lens, hopefully f/2.8 or faster and possibly a flashlight to light paint the foreground objects. It’s really something tough to practice unless you have someplace local with low light pollution. I’m hoping to shoot the Milky Way from the Oregon coast next Tuesday if it’s clear.

donspears Loc: Joshua, TX

There are several manufactures of star tracking devises. I have 2 made by iOptron (sky tracker for smaller camera and sku guider for heavier camera). Both of these work great at tracking the earths movement allowing for much longer exposures. The sky tracker is around $480 and the sky guider is $548 currently on sale at ioptron.com.

StanMac Loc: Tennessee

Here’s an interesting read about Pentax’s Astrotracer feature

https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/explore/astro/

Stan

MDI Mainer

Thanks. I've used that in the past too. Worked well, but couldn't remember the name!

Mojaveflyer Loc: Denver, CO

The 500 Rule is 500 divided by the length of your lens. This photo was done with a 14 mm lens, ISO 3200, for 20 seconds. That's lightning at the bottom of the Milky Way not using a tracker. I also use a another tracker that is less expensive. It's a Omegon Mini-Track LX-3 that goes for about $200. It's a mechanical device, not electric. You would need to practice with it but it does work well.

(Download)

Basil Loc: New Mexico

When I shoot with my tracker, I shoot the foreground separately (usually during Blue Hour), then blend in PS. I shoot the sky and foreground from exact same location.

Canisdirus

That's the ticket...

BrianFlaherty Loc: Wilseyville, CA

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Where do you live that you do NOT have "clean skies" within a few hours of your "HOME?" I would NOT make a "special trip" to Wyoming for astro-photos as your first learning experience! I live in the mountains of California at a 3,000 ft elevation; and, about 35 miles from ANY city or town. . .I get clean skies from the deck of my home; but, if I drive another 20-30 minutes to 5,000+ ft. . there are fewer trees; and, ZERO houses. And, I get even "cleaner" skies. I would recommend you "practice" closer to home before going to Wyoming.