imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

I will start off by saying if you are going to all the trouble of shooting film, make sure the results are worth your while and shoot medium format 120 film !
In this beginning look at vintage / classic medium format film cameras I will talk about the Graflex Century Graphic - a 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 drop bed rangefinder folding bellows camera 1949-1970 - and the ways of outfitting this camera for maximum performance - and showing the "Ultimate Century Graphic". Most of what I show here also applies to the earlier 2X3 "Crown Graphic" also. More info on this model - https://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html
I will begin by talking about the 120 roll film backs that can fit this camera. For each of these different format backs you of course need the proper mask for the viewfinder - and I do recommend using the viewfinder for most applications over the ground glass method. There are two versions of the ground glass (GG) back - the later one with a fresnel brightening screen and the early one without. I highly recommend the Fresnel version which has concentric circular embossment.

All Graflex roll film backs come in two versions - an early knob wind and the later lever wind. The Knob wind version does NOT have film flattening rollers and is to be avoided ! It is worth mentioning that Graflex backs use a string for light sealing that does not normally deteriorate over time. Later backs like the Horseman and Mamiya use a chemical based light seal that does deteriorate over time.
1. Graflex RH-12 - 12 exposures on 120, 56X56mm square. These backs are fairly scarce to find and more expensive when you do.
2. Graflex RH-10 - 10 exposure on 120, 56X69mm - this supposedly closely matches 8X10 proportions.
3. Graflex RH-8 - 8 exposure, the knob wind is 56X82mm and the lever wind is smaller @ 56X78mm.
The Graflex backs are single stroke advance. Those labeled "SINGER" are the latest and most preferred.
4. Mamiya RB67 backs, 10 exposure 56X69mm.
5. Horseman - late black 10 and 8 exposure backs only. The 8 exposure is 56X82mm and most closely proportionately resembles 24X36mm of standard 35mm. The locking tabs on the Century and Crown have to be modified to properly allow fitment of the Horseman backs. Being the largest and the newest, the Horseman is MY preference - but DO check the light seals !
The Mamiya and Horseman backs are double stroke advance.
There are two different sized viewfinders that Graflex made - a LONG one most used on 4X5 bodies and a SHORT one most used on 2X3 bodies - BUT, if you are using a roll film back, you really need to be using the LONG version on the 2X3 cameras to allow your face/eye to clear the back and get close enough to the VF to use it properly! Honestly, I see NO practical use for the SHORT VF ! The viewfinder with no mask covers the field (approx) of an 80mm lens on the 8 exposure backs. For lenses longer than 80mm you need a mask.
For the same reason as needing a long VF, you also need a long optical magnifier to use the rangefinder to advantage. This magnifier screws into the RF viewing port as seen in the photos. Not all Centuries have a RF - it was a $50 option at the time- but is MUCH preferred !
The Crown graphics bodies are made out of wood. The Century is made out of "mahoganite" which is a hard plastic type material thought to be more durable than wood. This material also results in a weight saving over metal. The Century is quite lighter than the metal Linhofs and Horseman for example !
The size and weight of the Century justifies having a HAND GRIP for proper management. Graflex did provide a fairly good one as shown in the photos - but these OEM ones are very scarce !

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Showing 5 element 105mm Xenotar f2.8 installed

(Download)

Showing long VF and RF maginfier/extender - best to be using left eye !

(Download)

Showing home made L bracket for vertical orientation with A/S connection QR

(Download)

Curmudgeon Loc: SE Arizona

Very nicely shot set, great information for anyone thinking about moving in that direction. One question: Why would anyone haul around a monster like that and not take advantage of the 4x5 format?

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

The ease and economy of using 120 roll film ....and slightly smaller/lighter. 4X5 film holders can really weigh you down ! The Century is a 2X3 native camera. The 4X5 Crown Graphics can use 120 roll film backs with adapter tho.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Now, I am going to talk some about lenses. The camera shown has the 105 Schneider Xenotar - a 5 element scarce and expensive lens. Due to the large size of this lens, it cannot be stored in the collapsed body and must be carried separately. The smaller 3 and 4 element lenses ( Graflar, Optar, Ektar ) can be stored in the camera body - which is very handy. Most all of these cameras came with a 100, 101, 105mm lenses with matching bed scales and RF adjustment.. A few came with 80mm lenses like the Tessar, Xenotar, and Planar - not sure if these 80mm f2.8 lenses can be stored in the body. In the case of scale focusing, it is important that the focus scale on the bed matches the lens in use. Focus scales are available but fairly scarce and are somewhat hard to identify correctly. It is also important that the RF patch is highly visible and aligned and adjusted for the lens in use !
The Lenses must be set to infinity focus using a GG back and the infinity stops on the bed.
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kelso007 Loc: Circle Pines Minnesota

Thank you for the detailed information. I look forward to future assessments.
Dave K