AlanK
Loc: No. Califorina
Hi everyone, I've shot some "focus stacked" images in the past but was never real happy with the the results, there's always "gaps" between areas of focus, even when using a Macro focusing rail for fine control.
I just heard from a guy that does a lot of this that I shouldn't be using a Macro lens, I used a Nikkor 200mm 4 Macro (FF) on my D3x, D4 and now the D800. It seems to be the same with each body.
Any suggestions about which lenses would give the best performance ? Or do I just need to practice, practice, ...
Thanks, Alan
Focus "gaps" are caused by photo increment spacing exceeding DoF of each individual photo. Auto-advancing macro stages (rails) can be set to just hundredths of millimeter increments, far finer and more accurate than can be selected manually. I cannot fathom how preference for a non-macro lens can improve focus-stacking. It is the quality of execution that dictates quality of continual focus in final stacked image.
AlanK
Loc: No. Califorina
Nikonian72 wrote:
I cannot fathom how preference for a non-macro lens can improve focus-stacking. It is the quality of execution that dictates quality of continual focus in final stacked image.
Thanks for the quick reply ;~), I too was surprised by this guys comments but I guess I could try a setup using 2-3 different lenses?
I always use a macro rail (ReallyRightStuff) with fore / aft and side to side micro adjustment provided by the focus rail thread.
Thanks again, Alan
Bret
Loc: Dayton Ohio
Both of these shots are 4 shot focus stacked...shot 1 was with a 40mm macro lens at F4.5.......shot 2 is with a 85mm macro lens set at F16...also a longer shutter....at 1/6s. You can see the difference a smaller setting can make with DOF.
#1
#2
Enlarged crop of image #1, demonstrating focus gap between sequential stacked images.
AlanK
Loc: No. Califorina
Thanks, that's exactly what I see in mine ;~(.
I'll follow your advice about figuring DOF, I always use the same -stop (-8 - -11), same ISO and let the shutter adjust as necessary.
Alan
When focus stacking, you need to ensure that the distance change between frames is much less than the acceptable available depth of field from the lens at it's particular settings.
For instance if your acceptable depth of field is 0.5mm, then your distance increments would need to be at the very most <0.25mm to ensure there's enough overlap in sharp areas to build the stack.
gfinlayson wrote:
When focus stacking, you need to ensure that the distance change between frames is much less than the acceptable available depth of field from the lens at it's particular settings.
For instance if your acceptable depth of field is 0.5mm, then your distance increments would need to be at the very most <0.25mm to ensure there's enough overlap in sharp areas to build the stack.
Got it in one
You need to overlap the same as you do in a pano.
Apart from the focus rail you use, you may like to look at
http://www.controlmynikon.com is you are using a Nikon. This is control of focus stacking through an attached PC based laptop. I can't comment on how good the system is, I am waiting for the Mac software, which is expected before end 2012.
BboH
Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
You don't say what program you are using - take a look at Helicon focus
AlanK
Loc: No. Califorina
BboH wrote:
You don't say what program you are using - take a look at Helicon focus
Thanks for the tip on software, I tried it and liked it a while ago, never did buy it.
Seems like PS CS5 does a good job, if I do a good job when taking pics lol.
Thanks, Alan
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