BebuLamar

Dr. Joel Germond Loc: California Central Coast

Thanks all. I'm going with an L-bracket solution as suggested by Christian and cjc. JG

stan0301 Loc: Colorado

Stroboframe makes a mounting plate with a quick release which I use with all my cameras and long lenses - used tens of thousands of times - never a probem

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

You should look at what RRS (Really Right Stuff) has to offer and pick from that. I do use a (two piece) L bracket on my Z9 sometimes when I take a portrait from a tripod. Also, I'm sure Nikon can replace your tripod socket on the bottom of your camera. Call Nikon Tech support and see what they have to say along with the cost. I've used the Stroboframe stuff in the past and it's no where near as good as RRS. Best of luck.

druthven

Some cameras tripod sockets are 3/8 inch instead of 1/4 inch. If the tripod screw just seems to fall into the socket then that is probably the case and you just need an adapter for the camera to reduce it to 1/4 inch. Check reduction adapter for tripod sockets, Amazon.

campyboy1 Loc: vancouver Washington

You want what is called a 1/4-inch bottom tap which taps the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.

chrissybabe Loc: New Zealand

I suspect that most posters here haven't actually looked at the bottom of the P1000. I also doubt very much that the issue is anything to do 'tapping' out the mounting socket. And I doubt that Nikon would service the camera as it looks like it would need a substantial repair. They won't tap the socket larger and I don't think they will have a replacement case. It might be feasible to buy an old P1000 and rebuild it onto that but the cost will be prohibitive.
An L bracket does look attractive especially if it has some other method of mounting to the camera as well as the thread on the bottom. If the only way of mounting the bracket is the bottom thread, and no other supplemental support, then you have the same situation as you have now.
I note that there appears to be 6 screws around the bottom of the camera. It might be possible to find longer equivalents and as well as gluing a plate onto the base use these screws somehow. That will give extra support. To quote DPReview re this camera "We would've thought that Nikon would put a tripod mount under the lens - or offer a tripod collar - but they don't."
Another possibility might be a cage as they often use additional mounting points like unscrewing the strap fitting and using that as part of the mount. Cages often have additional support points which might help take the weight.
Best of luck.

ChristianHJensen

this may be a good idea https://www.amazon.com/LIMS-Release-Camera-Tripod-Dovetail/dp/B07KVBCT87/ref=asc_df_B07KVBCT87/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366384189491&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9628808515551028933&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007818&hvtargid=pla-580763289522&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=75347436479&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366384189491&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9628808515551028933&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007818&hvtargid=pla-580763289522

CO

I work in a machine shop. You can get bottoming taps that have a much shorter lead than plug taps.

dbrugger25 Loc: Raleigh, NC

You could epoxy the Acra Swiss shoe screw into the camera threads but it might interfere with the future ability to have the camera serviced.

CO

Heloicoils can be used to repair stripped out threads. You drill a larger hole and get a tap for screw thread inserts. There's a tool that's used to install the helicoil. The tang on the helicoil is then punched out.

A standard 3/8-16 thread tap uses 5/16 (.312) diameter drill
A 3/8=16 helicoil tap used a size X (.397) diameter drill

chrissybabe Loc: New Zealand

This looks to be worth investigating. I guess a shame that it wasn't used in the beginning. The dovetail looks swiss arca. But having the foam may not be a good idea as it will be working to push the plate away from the camera and making the sloppy fit of the screw worse. At the end of the day the camera is history so you have nothing to lose. Glue the screw in. Actually thinking about it it might be worth investigating re-tapping the hole larger but not up to the 3/8" which is the next larger usual tripod thread. If the hole is already slogged out then half the work is already done. Maybe check out 5/16" or a metric equivalent, the clearance drill wouldn't have to remove much metal and thus reduce the possible effect of too much vibration into the camera. You will have to work out some way to use the next size up screw in a swiss arca plate but that should be a simple process. Since the bracket mentioned above already has a dovetail just drill out the camera mounting hole a little larger. Unfortunately all bets are off if you want to use this in portrait mode.

SteveFranz Loc: Durham, NC

A "permanent" fix would be to get a Quick Release plate and mount onto the camera using Gorilla Glue instead of re-tapping the hole. But be advised that Gorilla Glue is VERY permanent & cures rock hard.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I would be hesitant to drill out the hole for a helicoil or any other purpose unless you have a well equipped machine shop. Drilling produces metal chips and you don't want them floating around your camera. A good machine shop will have facilities and experience to deal with chips.

Can you describe in more detail what you mean by 'doesn't attach to the camera'? Does the tripod bolt not screw in? Does it screw in but only a little way? Does it screw in but the hole rotates? (That would probably make it hard to remove).

Before doing anything else, get a 1/4-20 bolt from someone (you can probably get one from your local hardware store for a quarter [plus tax]). That way you can see what's happening without the tripod being in the way. If you can get the bolt in so that it fits firmly, you may be able to use a quick-connect bracket (Arca-Swiss is probably the most popular type) and leave it on. The only disadvantage to that approach is that you will want the other half of the bracket to stay on the tripod so that you will need a quick connect bracket for any other cameras you use on the tripod.

I have Kirk brackets on all my cameras and the connector on the tripod. Really Right Stuff is another good brand. There are probably other brands you could use. Shop around.

I don't have a P1000 so I don't know how it's constructed. If you are going to glue something onto the base, (1) make sure you're not gluing onto some decorative material covering the metal of the body and (2) if there are screws holding the body together that you can see on the bottom of the camera, make sure they're still accessible.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Unfortunately, I have become an EXPERT in damaged tripod sockets and threads, etc, but not on purpose!

My assistants at the studio call me Mr. Wrench-Hands. because of my bad habit of OVERTINGTHING everything. It got so bad that they had to stage an "intervention" and insisted that I am no longer allowed to set up light stands and tripods.

I am certain tht l am not the strongest old man in the world but I inherited my father's hands- they are rather large and very strong. Even when I become entirely decrepit (soon), I'm certain I will still be able to open cans without a can opener and inadvertently pull doorknobs and cabinet handles off their mountings.

To add insult to injury, I have been known to tighten the camera on a tripod by rotating the camera body, adding additional torque, force, and whatever, and bingo- no more tripod socket! I suppose I have some kind of subconscious phobia that the camer will fall from the tripod if I don't super tighten it. My main assistant says I would have made a good plumber or gas fitter in the days before copper tubing was invented! At home, I am the "official jar opener" and sadly the official "door-knob replacer"!

Fixing? I am pretty handy around the house and good at building stuff but DIY camera repair- NADA! I have a few camera repair bills that look like telephone numbers. Yes, I have all the taps, thread cleaners, drill bits, Dremel stuff, files, and "Easy Out" broken screw removers but those are reserved for light stands and some support hardware. On my old view camera, I drilled out the stripped socket and replaced the bushing but that base was removable for the rail.

Lately, just about every tripod and stan in the shop has quick-release mechanisms, brackets, and newfangled wahtever that does not requre, excuse the expression "screwing"! Talk about screwing things up!

Perhaps they should make camera bodies, or at least the bottom plates out of Tungsten, boilerplate, or cast iron! Dimond thumbscrews?