JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

This shot was made using a full spectrum Olympus EM5ii. But this was the result of 3 filters. First was a Vivitar X1 filter which is a pale green-yellow filter. I have a number of different pale green-yellow filters, but I like the effect from this one best. Second filter is a B+W KB20 filter which is rather blue in color, and finally a Hoya 80C filter. The 80C has an effect on the range of IR light the camera sees. Without this filter, the results break down.

This effect has to be used on a full spectrum camera. It will not work on any other.

These filters, when used together, leave the foliage as a candy pink to cranberry color while not changing the color of cement and other non-living things. There is no channel swapping. The only sdjustments made were to control the saturation and hue of the foliage.

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CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Crazy colors, nice results!

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Here is another with the same 3 filters, except the 80C replaced with an 80A. Closer to Candy Pink this time. Sun getting low and just about sunset.

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dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Full spectra and filters is like a theater organ with many stops, full-spectra can make a wide range of music as Jim shows us in his photos.

Using a UV Bypass filter that allows UV and IR filtering out visible is actually a filter used to view crops.
"When to use this filter: Good for crop analysis purposes and a false color IR without post-processing."
See this in the ultra blue filter:
https://kolarivision.com/choosing-an-infrared-filter

A wide range of filters are available at reasonable prices from:
www.aliexpress.us

mvetrano2 Loc: Commack, NY

nice

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I think I like the second even better, great job!

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Attached are the passband graphs for the 80A, 80B and 80C. Notice that the waveform is going downhill into the IR region. In that 3 filter combo, this is important in that some IR is needed, but not too much IR to keep the colors correct. I supplied a picture with the 80C and the 80A. And the foliage colors were different while at the same time cement and other things remained correct. 80C allowed more IR than did the 80A with the result that the end color was different.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

There is another filter that can replace the Vivitar X1 filter. Its the Kenko P00 filter. I have had this in my filter collection for years since playing with Tri-X film. And it does seem to behave like the Vivitar X1.

See:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/361970188149

The B+W KB20 filter is more difficult to substitute. The blue color in this filter comes from the use of Cobalt in the glass which has some unique properties. The same effect isn't obtained with an ordinary blue filter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204215258910?hash=item2f8c2d8f1e:g:BmYAAOSwXudjwpbc&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4O0m4eR72952SstwYTynqEfYDBVhn7GbdewmxmEEhC816Uj055iLBvuwDgSt254Kl4kivtxTIBXifXC8tTOUiAeT%2F%2FJ3PPQ%2BPo%2BfhouRAi%2BURpxz0Gx5s8PNrlkrspNNnWwCH4%2FiGasY1CG4b4lhjdQNm2QoKrzQGZCoZUbKwCWdDgKX59NZPe8rqiB3Z3gjIyRHzMwerID1UChjhdFa3LlVKKffbuzx%2FwFxkzw7OUkmCmPUZ5vbFpjgutwZRXggWmHymmvjJyafgdlR%2BxAOktsLYWREQ9Q8dUYX9tKbMgUv%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7qB0JHlYQ

I am attaching an example image using the Kenko P00 filter with B+W KB20 filter and the Hoya 80A filter.

Note: the colors shift a bit whether I use Adobe or DxO Photolab Elite to do the demosaicing. And I used DxO DeepPrime XD on this image which also improves the colors. And again, no channel swapping with this method.

(Download)

topcat Loc: Alameda, CA

Very nice. I like to do the colour shift in the computer, but this works as well

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

I mostly do my channel swapping in the computer too. But this was an effort to combine filters to see if this could be done a different way. Kolari sells a filter called Chrome IR that produces a result that also does not depend upon channel swapping, and makes every day look like autumn. And I can see from this exercise that they would have to do this with the combining of several filters into one. Now I don't have the ability to make this all work with one filter, but Kolari must have had some company do this for them that does have this ability.

In my case, using three filters can cause vignetting. So, my way around this is to use larger filters and to then do a step up to that larger size. It's been fun to experiment with it. I actually had found someone else online who was doing this, and I took it a step farther and experimented with alternates lenses.

petrochemist Loc: UK

Those spectra don't actually show the IR region (which is above 700nm - like most such filters they just show the visual band). Yes the transmission is dropping as they approach the infra red, but it is highly likely that all of them will transmit well by about 850nm. I'm lucky enough to have access to a decent spectrometer at work, and had recorded spectra for a large collection of filters. Most transmit IR, with my cokin cooling filter transmitting over 80% of he incident light at 750nm (actually higher than it manages anywhere in the visual band (400-700nm).
This doesn't apply to all filters and can be unpredictable I have three X1 filters (2 different size round ones and a gel) The gel transmits loads of IR, the larger round one hardly any & the smaller one bang in the middle! The small one gives great results shooting IR on a foveon sensor, the other two are useless for me.

I've recently posted filter spectra to the new DPRevived forum's IR section (sorry don't have them handy here) have a look at https://dprevived.com/t/filter-options-for-conversions-full-spectrum/674/

petrochemist Loc: UK

To add to the previous aerochrome style images here's the result of my small X1 with the foveon based SD14 (dust trap removed)
seafront garden aerochrome small by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr

and here's one on a full spectrum converted bayer camera fitted with a red filter & then employing a simple global hue adjustment:
P1160561d by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

🟣🟣Superb🟣🟣