JR69
Loc: Wolverine Michigan
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis with a Nikon D80 and a Nikor AF-S 300mm f2.8 with a AF-S TC-20E III converter. FOV was about 900mm -+ ... Thinking about the Eclipse next year. I have the Nikor 300mm f2.8 and now have a Nikor AF-S 500mm f4 D.. Will probable put the 500mm on my D500 I am not truly pleased with the sharpness I get with my 2x converter so may not use it but would like to for the extra reach.
Question:Thinking about putting the D-850 on another set of legs with a 17 or 35mm lens ??? Looking for ideas for Time lapse.....
Must admit have not looked in the dreaded manual. Can I program or set the 850 taking an image, say every minute or two and then some how stitch or combine all or selected images in to a single image file. And if so what software might I use?
Images in 2017 were shot manual, spot, 100-400 ISO varying F stops 5.6+
Great set. Not 20 before the eclipse began, my trip from central Wisconsin to eastern Nebraska was for nothing due to cloud cover that moved in. Your set is really very good.
JR69
Loc: Wolverine Michigan
Ruthlessrider wrote:
Great set. Not 20 before the eclipse began, my trip from central Wisconsin to eastern Nebraska was for nothing due to cloud cover that moved in. Your set is really very good.
We had rooms booked in Missouri and either N Carolina or S carolina for that purpose
JR69 wrote:
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis with a Nikon D80 and a Nikor AF-S 300mm f2.8 with a AF-S TC-20E III converter. FOV was about 900mm -+ ... Thinking about the Eclipse next year. I have the Nikor 300mm f2.8 and now have a Nikor AF-S 500mm f4 D.. Will probable put the 500mm on my D500 I am not truly pleased with the sharpness I get with my 2x converter so may not use it but would like to for the extra reach.
Question:Thinking about putting the D-850 on another set of legs with a 17 or 35mm lens ??? Looking for ideas for Time lapse.....
Must admit have not looked in the dreaded manual. Can I program or set the 850 taking an image, say every minute or two and then some how stitch or combine all or selected images in to a single image file. And if so what software might I use?
Images in 2017 were shot manual, spot, 100-400 ISO varying F stops 5.6+
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis wi... (
show quote)
#5 is the dream shot. Fantastic!!
👍👍
JR69 wrote:
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis with a Nikon D80 and a Nikor AF-S 300mm f2.8 with a AF-S TC-20E III converter. FOV was about 900mm -+ ... Thinking about the Eclipse next year. I have the Nikor 300mm f2.8 and now have a Nikor AF-S 500mm f4 D.. Will probable put the 500mm on my D500 I am not truly pleased with the sharpness I get with my 2x converter so may not use it but would like to for the extra reach.
Question:Thinking about putting the D-850 on another set of legs with a 17 or 35mm lens ??? Looking for ideas for Time lapse.....
Must admit have not looked in the dreaded manual. Can I program or set the 850 taking an image, say every minute or two and then some how stitch or combine all or selected images in to a single image file. And if so what software might I use?
Images in 2017 were shot manual, spot, 100-400 ISO varying F stops 5.6+
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis wi... (
show quote)
You can probably set up the D850 for those intermittent shots, but you better have it on a tracking mount, otherwise the sun will be out of frame. Nice photos by the way.
JR69 wrote:
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis with a Nikon D80 and a Nikor AF-S 300mm f2.8 with a AF-S TC-20E III converter. FOV was about 900mm -+ ... Thinking about the Eclipse next year. I have the Nikor 300mm f2.8 and now have a Nikor AF-S 500mm f4 D.. Will probable put the 500mm on my D500 I am not truly pleased with the sharpness I get with my 2x converter so may not use it but would like to for the extra reach.
Question:Thinking about putting the D-850 on another set of legs with a 17 or 35mm lens ??? Looking for ideas for Time lapse.....
Must admit have not looked in the dreaded manual. Can I program or set the 850 taking an image, say every minute or two and then some how stitch or combine all or selected images in to a single image file. And if so what software might I use?
Images in 2017 were shot manual, spot, 100-400 ISO varying F stops 5.6+
Shot the 2017 eclipse South West of Saint Louis wi... (
show quote)
You might want to check the eclipse site
https://eclipse2024.org. If you use their eclipse simulator it will give you a good estimate how long the entire event will take at any location under the path. Then you can figure out a time lapse of your preference. Where I live it will take a bit more than 2 1/2 hrs. To me, a five - ten minute lapse should give me plenty of shots -no clouds, of course. Especially, since I'll have to center the image frequently. I have Photoshop, which has no issue putting different shots in one image.
I was in White House, Tennessee for the last eclipse. Truly an unforgettable experience. Once you see one you are hooked. We were lucky as there were no clouds. I didn’t have a Sun filter, so my only exposures were of totality and the ring effect. What filter did you use? I wonder if a $100 filter will be much better than a cheaper one, in terms of the image produced.
Cool things you can try is to bracket the totality and with some manipulation get more detail of the corona. Also, it is neat to step back and shoot the totality together with the stars and planets visible.
Great photo set of this rare event.
Great series of captures, JR.
JR69
Loc: Wolverine Michigan
srsincary wrote:
#5 is the dream shot. Fantastic!!
👍👍
srsincary Thanks for the kind words
JR69
Loc: Wolverine Michigan
alberio wrote:
You can probably set up the D850 for those intermittent shots, but you better have it on a tracking mount, otherwise the sun will be out of frame. Nice photos by the way.
Alberio I was thinking of use a short lens that I would not have to track it.. But then over time, many minutes perhaps, my focus would not be sharp. Thanks for your input.. John
JR69
Loc: Wolverine Michigan
clemente21 wrote:
You might want to check the eclipse site
https://eclipse2024.org. If you use their eclipse simulator it will give you a good estimate how long the entire event will take at any location under the path. Then you can figure out a time lapse of your preference. Where I live it will take a bit more than 2 1/2 hrs. To me, a five - ten minute lapse should give me plenty of shots -no clouds, of course. Especially, since I'll have to center the image frequently. I have Photoshop, which has no issue putting different shots in one image.
I was in White House, Tennessee for the last eclipse. Truly an unforgettable experience. Once you see one you are hooked. We were lucky as there were no clouds. I didn’t have a Sun filter, so my only exposures were of totality and the ring effect. What filter did you use? I wonder if a $100 filter will be much better than a cheaper one, in terms of the image produced.
Cool things you can try is to bracket the totality and with some manipulation get more detail of the corona. Also, it is neat to step back and shoot the totality together with the stars and planets visible.
You might want to check the eclipse site
https://e... (
show quote)
As I think about this more I also think 5-10 minutes between shots would work. We only had a scattered clouds till about an hour before the show started. I got a S-5500 filter from
https://thousandoaksoptical.com/shop/solar-filters/full-aperture-solarlite/ cost about 70 bucks?? for my 300mm lens... This eclipse I will be using a 500mm and will need a tad larger filter, but I am happy with the results and the cost. The idea of bracketing the totality and also getting the stars involved is great. Thanks for your suggestions John
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