rbenotti Loc: Massachusetts

Hi all!

Currently I use this lens to shoot basketball & cheer floor routines indoors. Sport mode does ok for basketball, but isn't always sharp (single point focus helps, but doesn't that defeat the point of 39 focus points?), but isn't "fast enough" to keep up tumble passes in cheer. I've used Arpeture mode for that, and it does well.

I'm looking to get both scenarios sharper however. Any recommendations for settings to try? Full manual?

Shooting in RAW and adjusting the light/noise does help as well (RAW looked grainy, but NX-Studio did a decent job)

Any suggestions are recommended.

Thanks!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Your lens is going to be sharper in the f/8 to f/11 range.

Your ability to stop action is going to be better at the 1/800 sec or faster.

Your ability to track action will improve when using Nikon's AF-C setting where the AF is engaged while you half-press the shutter or reprogram a BBF config.

Taking control of the camera in Manual is the best way to control both the aperture and shutter speeds, especially when you need to adjust for less than full light outdoors.

You might get more actionable feedback by posting and storing some original JPEGs where the specifics of the situation, and the EXIF data of the camera, can be analyzed.

Regarding 1 vs 39 AF points, the camera (all cameras) focus on just one thing. The depth of field of the aperture and focal length determine how much forward and behind that plane of perfect focus are also in sharp focus. Letting the camera wildly select where to focus is better with cameras that have eye-tracking technology. Your camera does not have this technology. You'll typically be better served using a single selectively placed AF point (or a 'zone' of 9 clustered AF points) placed on the face or upper chest of the subject moving around at athletic events.

rbenotti Loc: Massachusetts

Thanks for the quick response! I have a game tonight, so I'm going to try the f-stop settings, use AF-C (I was using AF-S) & play around with ISO. Thanks for the explanation of using a single focal cluster. I had done 9 points, but not in a focal cluster.

I'll put some up tomorrow!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Good luck and looking forward to results. You can create a reply and attach & store examples. Or, consider the Sport Section for a group of dedicated sports photographers: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-103-1.html

tramsey Loc: Texas

Dexter56 Loc: Ohio

I would add one more thing to what was already said. I always use auto ISO. and shoot in manual. you should keep your lens wide open and try to keep at 1/800 or faster. set your upper ISO limit as high as you can while still getting acceptable results. as someone mentioned, BB focus is the only way to go.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Generally lenses are sharpest stopped down 2 to 3 stops. A shutter speed at a minimum of 1/1000 sec should do it. I go down to floor level at mid count before any game and take a reading off a person standing in the middle of the court. Use manual exposure and add to our iso until you have your lens stopped down 2 or 3 stops and are shooting at least at 1/1000 sec. After you get your exposure, right it down, and use it when ever you shoot at that gym.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

rbenotti Loc: Massachusetts

Resulting JPG off the camera (FINE)

Common settings: M mode - APS-C - Cluster focusing

First one is focused on the wrong person (I might have been using cluster 21 point so that tracks).

Second one looks better, but grainy to me.

Third one looks better, but is darker.

Looking forward to learning this, as I can see some really cool pics resulting.

I have the NEF files too, so I can manipulate them in NX-Studio. Suggestions are appreciated there too.

F-stop f/8. Exp 1/800. ISO 10000. Focal length 100mm. Matrix mode: Pattern

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F-stop f/6.3. Exp 1/800. ISO 10000. Focal length 105mm. Matrix mode: Pattern

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F-stop f/6.3. Exp 1/800. ISO 8000. Focal length 116mm. Matrix mode: Pattern

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CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You can probably edit the NEF for sharper results and better noise processing. This quick edit reworked the attached JPEG.

You can download Nikon Capture NX-D to inspect the AF points and the EXIF / shooting data of the images. From NX-D, I see the active AF point in the center of all three images, such as the 'S' of player #25's Nashua South jersey. Your D5500 manual on page 85 gives a basic explanation of moving the 9-point dynamic group. Consider an "upper center" position that would better focus on the player's face for the 2nd and 3rd compositions in these examples.

Now that we see the light level where you're working, you might consider changing to:

a, Shutter priority between 1/640sec and 1/1000sec
b, AUTO ISO
c, Changing Exposure Compensation (EV) to +0.6 (i.e, 2/3 of a stop to the right)

The camera will probably respond with the max aperture for this lens (f/5.6) at the longer focal lengths. The +EC will have the camera 'brighten' the images a bit, direct from the camera, giving a SOOC result closer to this processed version. Using Shutter Priority will let you click up / down on the shutterspeed as the action changes. Just practice the 'finger feel' for moving the dials and seeing the speed change in the viewfinder so you always know where you are with the camera held to your eye.

The EXIF for player #4 (2nd image) shows an -2EC adjustment, this would seem to be an error? It was moved back to 0EC for the other two images. The VR is reported as 'OFF' for all three images. If you're seeing camera shake issues in other images, consider if turning VR back ON. It seems immaterial for these three examples.

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Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

rbenotti first and foremost you mission goal is a very tall order for the kit you're using.
Please do not be discouraged with your initial results.

That said it would be best if you ignore much of the advice you've received thus far...
It is has been provided by individuals who likely haven't shoot this optic the scenario you've described. Especially inappropriate is "Your lens is going to be sharper in the f/8 to f/11 range. "

Below is DxOmark's acuity analysis of your lens on a D5600 (your D5500 is going to be a tad less well suited for this task).

Stopping down to below 7.1 likely isn't going to yield an increase in acuity.
Second issue... ISO above 3200 isn't germane... to much sensor noise...
Third turn VR off above 1/500, it's going to hurt not help here.
Your SS of 1/800 is completely acceptable for this scenario...

The D5500 needs more light to yield an ISO range to accommodate controlling subject motion.

I actually shoot the Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR II lens and it's performance is simply amazing for it's price point. That said, it's not designed for indoor sports/action. I use it for outdoor portraiture in combination with speedlights... It's a winner in this scenario.

Best Advice? Please post your query in the UHH Sports Photography Forum...
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-103-1.html
There you will get appropriate responses from photographers who actually work in the genera you're interested in. The Main Forum in UHH isn't a wise option for the information you require.

Hope this helps...
All the best on your journey rbenotti

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rbenotti Loc: Massachusetts

Thanks for the info. Yeah - I think I had moved the Dynamic focus on the images further along, but I did notice I inadvertently moved it a few times.

I was viewing a quick video that suggested VR off. I've gone back and forth with that one, and will keep an eye out going forward.

In M mode, I can't set the ISO to Auto. I based the ISO off straight up Auto Mode, but I might have been off when I switched sides of the gym.

I think that EV was indeed off as I have mixed up what + and - actually do.

I've had luck with A Mode in cheer tumbling in the past, but S Mode is one I haven't tried.

Thanks for the suggesting & observations!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

+ (positive) EC makes the image brighter, telling the camera to bias the settings it can control, whether the ISO, aperture or shutterspeed, based on the shooting mode. Changing to shutter priority for sports lets the camera manage the aperture and ISO, when in AUTO ISO. And then, the +EC 'tells' the camera to make things brighter via these options. You then just need to manage the speed to the action and the composition.

rbenotti Loc: Massachusetts

Thanks. The Sports Forum was mentioned, and I'll use that going forward. Wanted to start with the folks who initially responded.

Yeah - indoor is hard from what I've observed, and heard. I had a feeling the ISO was a bit high. I figured out quickly 6.3 or below (above? I keep mixing this up) was better in this case.

I'm trying to learn manual modes where it makes sense. Sport is good, but I find it's too bright in many cases, and inherently blurry (by design to capture the motion - I get it). Not trying to outsmart the camera by any stretch - just learn bigger picture.

Appreciate the input on VR, and may look at the VRII lens. It's all helpful! This lens does a decent job outside (which is coming soon with spring)

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

What lens would be best to use for the sport of mud wrestling..? I'm asking for a friend 😜.

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

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For sports you should shoot in Shutter priority or Manual with a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Put your ISO on Auto since the lighting my require higher ISO settings.