nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

Has anyone heard of or used this filter combo? I've researched it and found pretty positive results. Normally costing $109.00 on Amazon. Polarpro has a filter like this and is about 2 1/2 times the cost.Even though the reviews say very good things about it, I'm a skeptical type of person looking for more opinions. I've never owned anything by this company and know very little about them except they are based in China. Thanks for any info/opinions.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

I'll guess it's just 2 CPLs, you rotate the primary for the CPL alignment and the other to get the VND.
Not sure if all VNDs are 2 polarizers or not...

nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

Thanks...I'm not sure either thus the fact finding mission.

User ID

Two CPLs wont work. The light exiting the front CPL is not polarized light.

Bill_de Loc: US

Fstoppers has what seems to be a well balanced review.

https://fstoppers.com/reviews/reviews-haida-cpl-vnd-pro-ii-variable-nd-filter-polarization-613452

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nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

From the video I watched it looks like the graduated ND is behind the CPl with each having its own adjustment ring.
I've used square ND's in the past but am not sure about this product. Thanks for your reply.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

That's interesting, because if I take two pair of polarized sunglasses and rotate them in front of each other they get dark.

nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

Thank you for that info.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

This is what is generally called a variable ND filter, and yes, it is a pair of CPLs that you can twist relative to each other to achieve nore or less darkening. I've had the Singh-Ray for years, and while it works well when it works, you need to be aware of a potential issue - what is called a "maltese cross" effect. This is where an X shaped shadow appears in the image.

I know from experience that this effect depends on the specific digital camera and lens being used (it never happens with film cameras). I believe it has to do with the constructive and destructive interference effect that can become visible on a particular sensor depending on the photosite sizes and spacing. In my case, the filter worked extremely well with a Nikon D600 but later I found the problem (which led me to learning about it) on my Fuji X-T1 and later, X-T2.

The point is - you need to use the filter on your particular camera to see if it will cause the issue.

nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

[quote=f8lee]This is what is generally called a variable ND filter, and yes, it is a pair of CPLs that you can twist relative to each other to achieve nore or less darkening. I've had the Singh-Ray for years, and while it works well when it works, you need to be aware of a potential issue - what is called a "maltese cross" effect. This is where an X shaped shadow appears in the image.

I know from experience that this effect depends on the specific digital camera and lens being used (it never happens with film cameras). I believe it has to do with the constructive and destructive interference effect that can become visible on a particular sensor depending on the photosite sizes and spacing. In my case, the filter worked extremely well with a Nikon D600 but later I found the problem (which led me to learning about it) on my Fuji X-T1 and later, X-T2.

The point is - you need to use the filter on your particular camera to see if it will cause the issue.[/q

nascar27 Loc: Kansas City, MO

[quote=nascar27][quote=f8lee]This is what is generally called a variable ND filter, and yes, it is a pair of CPLs that you can twist relative to each other to achieve nore or less darkening. I've had the Singh-Ray for years, and while it works well when it works, you need to be aware of a potential issue - what is called a "maltese cross" effect. This is where an X shaped shadow appears in the image.

I know from experience that this effect depends on the specific digital camera and lens being used (it never happens with film cameras). I believe it has to do with the constructive and destructive interference effect that can become visible on a particular sensor depending on the photosite sizes and spacing. In my case, the filter worked extremely well with a Nikon D600 but later I found the problem (which led me to learning about it) on my Fuji X-T1 and later, X-T2.

The point is - you need to use the filter on your particular camera to see if it will cause the issue.[/q[/quote]

Ok thanks for your input. Reviews mentioned that there was no "maltese cross" effect however it wasn't with my specific camera which is a Sony Alpha 7III. Will have to try it out to see for sure.