junglejim1949 wrote:
I am learning my R7 ...
One more thing, Jim,
It shouldn't take anymore that a day or two at most to learn a new camera. Photography is about taking great photos by knowing about light and composition and so on, and the tool (the camera) is a minor simple thing. Just like when we buy a new car. I don't spend ages learning to drive a new car. I already know how to drive, and a car is a car, and I know how to drive very fast in any new car without crashing and without first having to learn how to drive the new car. Same applies with a new camera, and writing with a new ballpoint pen, or whatever else the tool may be.
When you know how to drive and how to take good photos, the new car and new camera need nothing more than a short bit of time to get used to the new feel, or the new menus.
David Martin wrote:
Your focus point is on the yellow stamina (pleural of stamen) at the 3 o'clock position, and these are indeed in focus.
I think the lack of focus elsewhere is therefore the very narrow depth of field.
David; are you able to see the focus point somehow, or did to surmise from looking at the photo? I can find the camera settings, but I can't see where the focus was set in the photo properties.
You sure are getting lots of advice, most of it completely irrelevant. For example, I routinely use f/16 for floral work to good effect without any diffraction issues. On the other hand beautiful flower images can be done with a wider aperture and a shallow depth of field. Nor do we need EXIF data, nor a lot of chatter about equipment and how to use it. Focus bracketing and stacking can produce some good results, but that is not the only way to get images that appear very sharp.
Sharpness is an illusion that we create by manipulation of the following variables:
1. Composition
2. Lighting
3. Choice of focal point
All of the tech talk in the world won't address those creative issues. This is primarily a creative challenge, not a tech challenge. Very few people can tell what is stacked, what isn't, what aperture was used, which camera - some of my favorites were done using a bridge camera - what lens was used, etc.
A typical method I use: tripod; manual focus; focus on the nearest anther; f/16 or f/11; ISO 100; 1/100th second shutter speed; off-camera diffused flash.
You will come up with what works or you so that you can concentrate on composition, lighting and careful choice of focal point.
Blenheim Orange wrote:
Sharpness is an illusion that we create by manipulation of the following variables:
1. Composition
2. Lighting
3. Choice of focal point
All of the tech talk in the world won't address those creative issues. This is primarily a creative challenge, not a tech challenge. Very few people can tell what is stacked, what isn't, what aperture was used, which camera - some of my favorites were done using a bridge camera - what lens was used, etc.
A typical method I use: tripod; manual focus; focus on the nearest anther; f/16 or f/11; ISO 100; 1/100th second shutter speed; off-camera diffused flash.
Sharpness is an illusion that we create by manipul... (
show quote)
All of your above info is largely 'tech talk', as you put it, except for your point on Composition, arguably. ('Choice of focal point' is part of composition.)
Tech goes hand-in-hand with the creative side though. One needs to know how to apply the right 'tech' (off-camera diffused flash or not, and camera settings, and so on) to make the type of 'creative' image they wish to achieve.
Your examples are nice pics. Dark background using added light I note - I do that a lot too (small aperture and added light that is), but some people prefer a light background (with the entire flower still in sharp focus) rather than a dark background. I personally don't mind either way so long as it works because some flower shots are nicer on a dark background and some are nicer on a light background, IMHO.
As for focus stacking, I never bother with that either. Sometimes I want a shallow dof on the subject, and other times I apply the right 'tech' to get the whole flower (or other small-ish subject) in sharp focus, like you are doing.
Sometimes I use my tripod for flower photos, and sometimes not - it just depends of what I am trying to achieve. But I agree that using a tripod is often best when one wants the entire flower in sharp focus and when using a small aperture (f/12-f16, etc) and low ISO (such as ISO-100). However, I quite often get some nice sharp shots in my garden outside when there is a light breeze and on f/16 and the like, and using flash. I usually shoot at 1/200sec with flash and adjust the aperture and/or the flash power to get the exposure I am after, and sometimes I also do flash sync so that I can have a faster shutter speed (and less power from my flash) than 1/200 sec.
There you go, all that is 'tech talk' - knowing which tech to use for the photographer's desired creative intention.
I was fighting the same problem...then I read the instruction manual! I was ignoring the minimum focusing distance of my 105 Micro! The same with my flashes. I was trying to get too close; after all, its a close-up lens, right? I backed off a mite, and my photeaux improved.
flyboy61 wrote:
I was fighting the same problem...then I read the instruction manual! I was ignoring the minimum focusing distance of my 105 Micro! The same with my flashes. I was trying to get too close; after all, its a close-up lens, right? I backed off a mite, and my photeaux improved.
Yes, all lenses have a minimum focusing distance.
If you want to get in even closer with macro, you could try adding a set of extension tubes between your macro lens and body. They do cut the light back a bit, but otherwise pretty good.
Also, cropping makes it look like you were in closer. I personally hate cropping, but I crop a little bit sometimes.
If you're interested in focus stacking, have a look at this:
Mastering Macro Photography: Focus Stacking for Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NCorBcHOT4
joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
Blenheim Orange wrote:
Sure.
A superlative posting of floral masterpieces 💎💎💎💎💎
I like to use a shorter lens, like a 35 MM when doing flowers, the greater DOF helps with focus. I once shot a lot of extension tube photos but they proved only good for for flat objects as they provide a very small DOF.
junglejim1949 wrote:
I am learning my R7 and was in search of something to shoot. Very cold and foggy this morning but I did find some color. The photo was softer than I wanted and would appreciate any suggestions. I hope I wasn't shaking due to the cold. I will increase shutter speed next go around and see if that helps.
Thank you,
Jim
Looks GOOD to me! One thing I found in the early daze of learning my 105 Macro...I was having the problem of "not quite sharp enough"...VR and all!
I was trying to get too close!
After all, it IS a Macro lens, right? BUT...they ALL have minimum focusing distances! But but but...I don't NEED to...Intuitive, you know!
UH Huh! READ The manual, instruction sheet...whatever. I find it eliminates much confusion and discontent!
In addition to using a tripod and f/11 or greater as previous stated using a 50 mm lens will expand the depth of field … shooting indoors will also take care of problem created by the wind.
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