JPetrie Loc: Chicago

Fuji 35mm f/1.4 stopped all the way down.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Beats me, I don't commit that stuff to memory, but it's in the metadata IF I need it.

gwilliams6

F22 here. Sunrise over famed Monument Valley, scene of countless movies, TV shows, Commercials, Navajo Lands, Arizona/Utah border , USA.

61mp Sony A7RIV camera, Tamron 17-28mm f2.8 lens, 28mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/30 second, on a tripod. F22 gave me the best sunstars.

Cheers

(Download)

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Quite a few of my recent photographs were shot at f/32 or f/45. Those, along with a few at f/16.
--Bob

gwilliams6

f22, sunrise over Brookings lake, Manistee National Forest, Michigan, USA.

50mp Sony A1 camera, Sony 24-105mm f4 G OSS lens, 73mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/40 sec., handheld

(Download)

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The last time I used f/16 often, was before I learned to open up to avoid diffraction limiting of sharpness. That was back in the 1970s.

f/16 was the smallest aperture I would use for non-macro work with 35mm cameras. Most of my lenses back then were sharpest and most-well-corrected between one and two and five stops down from wide open. Determined through extensive testing and experience, my *preferred* working aperture ranges on my Nikkor primes used in the 1980s were:

24mm f/2.8 — f/5.6 to f/11 (best at f/8)
35mm f/2.0 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/5.6)
50mm f/1.4 — f/2.8 to f/8 (best at f/4)
55mm f/2.8 macro — f/5.6 to f/11 (I copied flat art at f/6.3 for best results)
105mm f/2.5 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/5.6)
135mm f/2.8 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/8)

I reserved f/16 for times when I absolutely had to have extreme depth of field.

These days, I use Micro 4/3 gear. I avoid using apertures smaller than f/8 when possible. Most of my work is done between f/4 and f/6.3, which is the sweet range on my f/2.8 zooms and macro. f/8 at 25mm is going to provide a similar depth of field and a similar field of view as a 50mm lens at f/16 on a full frame dSLR or 35mm SLR film camera. My f/2.8 Micro 4/3 lenses all perform their best at f/4, but they are almost as good wide open and down to f/6.3.

I have used f/16 on Micro 4/3, to get a star point effect in specular highlights, and to give a scene the overall look of using a 1970s style #2 Softar filter. But to get detail in landscapes, etc., I consult my DOFC app on my iPhone or Mac. (DOFC = Depth of Field Calculator) I rarely need an aperture smaller than f/6.3.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

As a sports guy, I normally shoot wide open. When I shoot ENG/PJ it can be F8 and be there! Best of luck.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

As you well should with the large format gear you use, Bob!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

If you'd attached the image, we could show you why you should have stopped long ago.

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

Yesterday...

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

An amazingly beautiful, impactful shot 🔆🔆🔆🔆🔆

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

Stunningly beautiful, and that light is sure magnificent 🔆💛🔆💛🔆

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

I love it 🖤🖤🔆🖤🖤

nimbushopper Loc: Tampa, FL

jaymatt Loc: Alexandria, Indiana

Nice black and white.