Doug Gaudette

In photographing the moon I have difficulty getting a sharp image as the moon is rising over water. I also have difficulty getting a sharp image when the rising moon is reddish/orange, which usually occurs as the moon is rising over the water. I have a bit more luck getting a sharper image when the moon is higher in the sky. And a lot more luck when the moon is a crescent moon rather than a full moon. I don’t know if there is some sore of weird water or atmospheric phenomena at play, or if it just a lack of skill on my part (which is certainly a possibility). I’ll attack a few photos which may help to illustrate the issue. If this helps I shoot with a Nikon D850 with a Tamron 150-600 G2. I usually use an ISO of 100-200, F-stop of 11 and a shutter speed that varies depending on the location of the moon. Thanks in advance for your help.
Doug

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rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

You're shooting through a lot more atmosphere with the moon on the horizon than when it's overhead. That is the source of the issue.
--Bob

Fred Harwood Loc: Sheffield, Mass.

Light during horizon shots has to travel through much atmospheric distortion, even ripples, mirages, magnification, and so forth.
Keep trying, your equipment is among the best.
Winter often brings calmer evening ops.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Bob and Fred have explained thoroughly. My advice is, if you want to shoot when the moon is on or near the horizon, work with, and accept, the results. Sharpness is not needed when you are after such an "atmospheric" image such as #1 you've posted.

One note on your photo #3: the sun is hitting the moon at a different angle, so the craters have shadows and more definition just because of the phase of the moon.

Fred Harwood Loc: Sheffield, Mass.

Here's an example with my D850 and Nikon zoom 400 mm with the moon past full. Note the difference between the rippled bottom and the sharper craters at right as the moon rises out of the worst distortion.

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Doug Gaudette

Thank you all for your feedback. I very much appreciate your help. I thought it may be something like that but I will keep trying.
Doug

photoman43

I use my D850 and D500 and Nikon 500mm f5.6 pf lens for similar moon images. Sometimes I add a 1.4x tc. I always shoot from a tripod, using a remote shutter device if available. I use mirror lock up too. All this helps to minimize any vibration at the moment the shutter goes off.

Regarding focus, I use AF, but always take some pictures with Manual focus too. I many situations, if the moon is bright enough, manual focus results in more keepers than does AF.

Atmospheric conditions play a large role in obtaining sharp focus.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Your first image shows ISO-2000 rather than a usual ISO-100-200. The graininess of the image is the digital noise. You probably want to be a tad faster on the shutter than the 1/100 sec used, maybe just 1/125 sec. Then, open your aperture, say to f/8, and let more light in while dropping the ISO on this specific type of shot.

Doug Gaudette

Thanks photoman 43. I also try both AF and manual focus. I used to use a tripod, but now I usually rest the camera on a beanbag on my car door. The crescent moon shot was taken using a monopod. I haven’t tried mirror up but now I will.
Thanks again,
Doug

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I agree with the previous responses about shooting through the atmosphere. That can have a lot of effect on sharpness. It varies depending upon how clear the atmosphere is.

Another thing.... watch your shutter speeds. The moon moves faster than most people realize. About the slowest shutter speed you should use for a reasonably sharp shot is 1/15. It would be even better to keep to 1/30 or 1/60, if possible.

Of course, with a telephoto at these shutter speeds you need a really stable platform, too. A good, solid tripod well-planted on a solid surface is required for the sharpest shots. Even traffic on a nearby street or people walking around on a wooden deck can cause some image softness. It may help to hang some weight under the head of the tripod.

Usually the most stable tripods do not use a center column or, if they have one, are tall enough that you don't need to raise it at all.

A carbon fiber tripod will typically do a better job of absorbing fine vibration than a metal tripod.

Another trick that can help is to lay a bean bag on top of the camera and lens. Not too heavy, of course... But maybe 4 or 5 lb. to help absorb fine vibrations.

Watch out for breezes when using large lenses with big lens hoods, too. Gusts of wind can cause camera movement.

Depending upon the camera system being used, it may be best to turn off any optical image stabilization in the lens. In some systems that may be helpful... If uncertain, do both. Take some shots with IS on and then take some with it off

You should use a remote release or the camera's self-timer so that you aren't touching it during the exposure, too. Also use mirror lockup (if using a DSLR or SLR) to eliminate as much internal vibration as possible. Shutter movement can still cause some internal vibrations, so if using a mirrorless it may help to use an electronic shutter.

I bet I'm forgetting some things! Hopefully others will chime in with any further suggestions.

EDIT: If using autofocus and a DSLR, it may be a good idea to calibrate the lens on the camera, if that's an option with your gear. Alternatively, manual focus may be a good idea. If you use it, be aware that many modern telephoto lenses are designed to focus past infinity. So you can't just turn the focus ring all the way to the "infinity stop". (Because there actually isn't one... This is possible due to autofocus, which theoretically should focus correctly at any distance. There may be a couple reasons why manufacturers now make lenses this way. One is to allow for heat expansion within the lens, when using it under different situations. Another reason is that it eliminates the need to calibrate the lens for infinity focus. Probably saves money, but also can't get out of adjustment when there is none!)

EDIT II: Experiment with your particular lens' focal lengths and aperture to find it's sharpest settings. You don't need to worry very much about depth of field, since you're focusing on an object that's 238,000 miles away! But your lens probably isn't at it's sharpest wide open, and at "too small" apertures you'll see fine detail disappear due to diffraction. You're looking for your particular lens' "sweet spot".

r1ch Loc: Colorado

My experience with the Tamron 150-600 G2 at 600, it's sharpest at f7. 1 and f8 Make sure the lens is locked at 600 so there is no creep.

Make sure your tripod is sturdy and securely footed and the gimbal/ball head does not move and is rated to hold the weigh of your camera and lens. Do not shoot in the wind. Do not turn in image stabilization it can introduce softness.
Make sure your lens/camera are balanced on the gimbal/ball head so the camera does not want to tip one way or the other.
If you are using a dslr use image shot delay to eliminate shutter slap vibration.

Try and shoot when temperature has stabilized outside. If you have big cooling rocks, buildings, roads, city buildings/heat it can create heat distortion, especially when shooting near the horizon. Over water try to catch the moon rises later in the evening

Use good software like Topaz Sharpen AI and DeNoise AI

Doug Gaudette

Again, thank you all for the very helpful feedback. Great suggestions and recommendations. Can’t wait for the Nov. 8 full moon.
Doug

r1ch Loc: Colorado

Ran through a little noise reduction, sharpening, structure and changed the color. Sharpening brought out the stars or, you had a lot of hot pixels. Probably the former.

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Doug Gaudette

WOW, looks much better. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

I would change your camera settings. f/11 limits light forcing either longer shutter speeds or high ISO, f/8 is better or even wide open. The second shot was at 1/320 sec, a better choice, the moon is moving.