HDR vs Tone Mapping: Advice needed please, I have two cameras and when using AEB I can only go to a max of +/- 1. This is really not wide enough to do a decent HDR, so I use...

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

Advice needed please, I have two cameras and when using AEB I can only go to a max of +/- 1. This is really not wide enough to do a decent HDR, so I use Tonemapping on the best exposure, and can get quite acceptable results. It also means that I can take photos hand held. One camera will take RAW shots but I have not really had chance to develop my skill with RAW.
I do not wish to buy another camera!!
Any help appreciated, John Eccles, Leyland, UK.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

johneccles wrote:

Advice needed please, I have two cameras and when using AEB I can only go to a max of +/- 1. This is really not wide enough to do a decent HDR, so I use Tonemapping on the best exposure, and can get quite acceptable results. It also means that I can take photos hand held. One camera will take RAW shots but I have not really had chance to develop my skill with RAW.
I do not wish to buy another camera!!
Any help appreciated, John Eccles, Leyland, UK.

John: Try a five shot sequence at -2, -1, 0, +1, & +2 and use shots, 1, 3, & 5. This is what I do. What cameras do you own?

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

One camera is an Olympus E-PL1 the other a Panasonic TZ10.
I have considered that but I would have to use the tripod and while adjusting the EV as you suggest how can I stop movement such as tree branches etc, as I imagine it would take upto 10 seconds. If it was landscape etc this wouldn't apply, anyway I will try this method when I can.
Thanks, John

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Twice you have mentioned your aversion to using a tripod. You are obviously justifying your decision to use tone-mapping (pseudo-HDR) from a single, hand-held capture.

I suggest that you use tone-mapping until you discover for yourself, the inherent shortcomings. Only then will you have a desire to truly explore exposure-bracketed HDR.

As an aside, setting your camera to -2 EV, and auto-bracketing (AEB) three photos, then adjusting to +2 EV, and again bracketing three photos, will give you six images, two of which are duplicate exposures. You can then choose highest, lowest, and one proper exposure, each separated by 2-EV differences.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

johneccles wrote:

One camera is an Olympus E-PL1 the other a Panasonic TZ10.
I have considered that but I would have to use the tripod and while adjusting the EV as you suggest how can I stop movement such as tree branches etc, as I imagine it would take upto 10 seconds. If it was landscape etc this wouldn't apply, anyway I will try this method when I can.
Thanks, John

Trees don't make the best HDR subjects. I usually shoot on tripod on Continuous High. Depending on the exposure and the frames per second, one can usually get off five shots in 2 seconds or less.

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

Thanks everybody, I have already decided the only way is to use a tripod, I always have one in my car, I also have a gorilla tripod which I will keep in my camera bag, once again thanks everybody,
John

kaerophil Loc: Oxford, CT

How do you do tone mapping? Is it in the camera or in a program such as PS Elements?

philo Loc: philo, ca

A good tripod is a must for HDR. By a good tripod I mean one that will support your camera and your heaviest lens.
A light wight tripod is worth then nothing. A good tripod and head will last you a life time and is a good investment.

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

Tone mapping is not in my camera, I use Zoner Photo Studio or Photomatix, you have to be careful though as Tone mapping or real HDR can make your photos look unnatural.
Its worth playing around though, make sure you keep the original, which both of the above do anyway.
Cheers, John Eccles

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

I am not adverse to using a tripod, I do have two, one is a mini gorilla type, the other is a full height one.
I keep these in my car so I have no excuse not to use them.
Having read lots of advice I have decided to use them more often.
Thanks, John Eccles

Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA

Just curious - do you have a quick release plate for your camera/tripod? That sure makes the use far less trouble. It increased my photo quality a whole lot. as I use the tripod more often.
Yes the FZ10 (I shoot a FZ18) has IS and auto bracketing for hand held which I have been using for my HDR in most shots but the tripod held - which is needed for the +/-2 does require time to ensure the photos are in the same position.
So far I have been very happy with my HDR results. I processe in Photomatix Pro and CS4.
Harvey

johneccles wrote:

I am not adverse to using a tripod, I do have two, one is a mini gorilla type, the other is a full height one.
I keep these in my car so I have no excuse not to use them.
Having read lots of advice I have decided to use them more often.
Thanks, John Eccles

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

johneccles wrote:

One camera is an Olympus E-PL1 the other a Panasonic TZ10.
I have considered that but I would have to use the tripod and while adjusting the EV as you suggest how can I stop movement such as tree branches etc, as I imagine it would take upto 10 seconds. If it was landscape etc this wouldn't apply, anyway I will try this method when I can.
Thanks, John

If you plan on doing anything resembling HDR you MUST use a tripod, or have a camera that does a really fast burst of 5 shots at 5 different EV settings, because your multiple shots at various exposures won't be precisely the same composition when handheld and it will be a shadowy mess. Tree branch movement is the least of your problems.

LenA

Ken,

Tone mapping is in the software that you use, ie; Photomatixs.
This software is one of the pioneers in HDR, now there are other
companies riding on the "band wagon.

Some of the newer cameras are doing HDR in camera but not
the Nikon 5100.