CHG_CANON wrote:
The game of life has losers and winners. If you won't obey the rules, on which list will you land?
Boardwalk with a hotel, and I don't own it...
CHG_CANON wrote:
The Rules are both ancient and just.
Sounds like pro golf -until recently...
This is what happens when I crop pictures.
I do crop my digital submissions according to the shot/subject.
Framed shots I try for standard frame sizes.
I found Bulk economy prints are stuck @ 4 X 6, requiring a 2 X 3 aspect ratio for the print to look right. Any deviation and the price goes from ,29 to $2.99.
"Come writers and critics who prophesize with your pen
And keep your eyes wide, the chance won′t come again
And don't speak too soon for the wheel′s still in spin
And there's no tellin′ who that it's namin′
For the loser now will be later to win
'Cause the times, they are a-changing"
Bob Dylan
Says it all. Also it is said that "You have to break a few eggs if you want to cook an omelette". However, if you decide to break the rules (or eggs) make certain that you are fully willing to accept the consequences. Good, bad or indifferent.
The reason is because it does not matter enough to concern folks.
4x5, 4x6, 5x7, 8x10, 16x20 ect. are the classic dimension. They are time tested and work for the majority of photo cropping needs. Also, all the standard frames and matts follow these figures.
However, if your photo crop needs to be 11x14, you can order a custom frame and matt, or simply mount it in a readily available 16x20 frame.
Is the extra effort worth it? To some yes, to others not so much.
As strictly an amateur, I have 2 approaches to cropping. Since I am unsure of how the picture will be seen I do not zoom in too tightly -- I leave some breathing room.
First in Photoshop I rotate arbitrarily.
Second.
To display on a TV or monitor or put in video, in Photoshop I crop "unconstrained" to what is subjectively interesting.
To make prints, I figure out what size paper 3x5 4x6 8x10 or 8.5x11 and then set that size in Photoshop. I then I try landscape vs portrait move the frame around and change its size on the screen until it is subjectively interesting.
Third.
I see if adjusting contrast, tone, color, etc. make the picture subjectively nicer. (as I get more experience, I'll figure out
Then I save with a new name.
Hope this helps.
I only use the pictures for family and friends.
To:
BigOldArt:
I like your comment "I do not zoom in too tightly -- I leave some breathing room."
Shooting B&W and processing myself in the day, I could control the framing in the darkroom.
Moving forward to color,
I found this out years ago when I discovered Commercial Processors routinely cropped my 35's by about 5%.
I don't have issues with digital presentations, but keep forgetting the print issue. Between the Processor and the frame, I sometimes loose edge details that are important components of the shot. [Tops of Flagpoles, etc.]
delder wrote:
To:
BigOldArt:
I like your comment "I do not zoom in too tightly -- I leave some breathing room."
Shooting B&W and processing myself in the day, I could control the framing in the darkroom.
Moving forward to color,
I found this out years ago when I discovered Commercial Processors routinely cropped my 35's by about 5%.
I don't have issues with digital presentations, but keep forgetting the print issue. Between the Processor and the frame, I sometimes loose edge details that are important components of the shot. [Tops of Flagpoles, etc.]
To: br BigOldArt: br br I like your comment "... (
show quote)
35mm/full frame digital gets cropped at least 20% to 4x5 or 8x10. The standard bleed on 4x6 borderless prints is 2%. More is lost at the scanner negative carrier when film is involved.
burkphoto:
Thank you for the actual numbers. I never measured it, just noticed essential parts of my photo gone!
burkphoto wrote:
35mm/full frame digital gets cropped at least 20% to 4x5 or 8x10. The standard bleed on 4x6 borderless prints is 2%. More is lost at the scanner negative carrier when film is involved.
When I had a Kodak lab print 8x10s from my 35mm slides, I would mark the slide one of two ways,
hard lines for crop
here, and squiggly lines for
somewhere around here, use your judgement.
It
always worked.
If the slides were not marked, inadvertently the wrong 20% would be lost.
Longshadow wrote:
When I had a Kodak lab print 8x10s from my 35mm slides, I would mark the slide one of two ways,
hard lines for crop here, and squiggly lines for somewhere around here, use your judgement.
It always worked.
If the slides were not marked, inadvertently the wrong 20% would be lost.
Yep. Labs usually take the center of the frame and equalize the loss on the sides. So ordering custom prints with crop marks on a contact print or slide is the only reasonable way to tell them what you want. With digital you can use a lab with ROES (remote order entry system) and do the crop yourself on the Internet.
burkphoto wrote:
Yep. Labs usually take the center of the frame and equalize the loss on the sides. So ordering custom prints with crop marks on a contact print or slide is the only reasonable way to tell them what you want. With digital you can use a lab with ROES (remote order entry system) and do the crop yourself on the Internet.
Costco has that setup for cropping when necessary. And it automatically pops into the image for one to position.
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