catterar Loc: Angier, NC

I have registered for a landscape photography workshop. One item that they strongly recommend that I bring is a set of graduated neutral density filters, one 2 stop and one 4 stop. One of my lenses is a Tokina 11-16mm ultrawide. I am concerned about vignetting with this lens. Before I buy anything, does anyone have any suggestions for a system that will work with this lens?
Thanks in advance.

Cheapshot Loc: California.

Check LEE Filter Systems. https://leefilters.com/camera/

catterar Loc: Angier, NC

Thanks Cheapshot, will do.

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

I use the Lee filter system as well. The way the systems work is they have a bulky squarish filter mounting bracket where you clip in a threaded circular adapter matching the filter size on your lens. It looks like the Tokina 11-16mm uses 77mm filters, but check for yourself. I've got several different size adapters for various lenses. The bracket accepts 100mm wide filters and can hold 2 filters at a time. You might put a neutral density filter in first, then a graduated filter, or just use one type of filter at a time. I have 6 stop and 10 stop ND filters, which are used to get a slow shutter speed for things in motion, especially clouds and water, to blur / soften. The graduated filters come in two types, soft and hard and usually in 1, 2, or 3 stops at the dark end. The soft filters gradually move from dark to clear and the hard filters have a hard line between dark and clear. Use the hard filters when the horizon is flat, like a seascape horizon, and a soft filter when the horizon may not be even like hills or mountains. The filters are not cheap, but well worth the money if you get into long exposure photography and landscape photography.

Screw on filters can be a little iffy with ultra wide lenses, over 90 degrees angle of view. The Lee filter system works fine with them, however. I've used them with a Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 DX lens with no issues. Here's a reference: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/filter-holders-for-ultra-wide-angle-lenses

Enjoy the workshop.

13 Loc: I am only responsible to what I say..not what

Use a ND 3,6, and10 square filters. website: www.kentfaith.com/ND%20Filters or Amazon

jcboy3

After years of using graduated ND filters, I've stopped using filter holders and just hold the filter in front of the lens. But for the most part, a simple bracket will handle bright skies and a little post-processing can blend much better than the filter. Plus, no more worries about color cast.

GrahamWishart Loc: Uk

I had a Tokina wide angle that needed the Lee 150 mm grads, so a whole separate set, heavy and costly. Eventually I traded those at MPB for a Nikon wide angle even though I loved the Tokina

kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy

Please consider that GNDs are obsolete technology. In analog days they made sense, but not anymore. If you take a bracketed exposure, or even 2 or 4 EV apart, depending on the situation in which you would use a 2 or 4 stop GND , you can mask them together in PS non-destructively in a way that allows infinitely more control of exposure, gradient, everything. With GNDs you are stuck with whatever the filter provides, always a straight edge, and unless you buy very large rectangular filters, you positioning of the transition is limited. They are expensive, delicate, clumsy, slow and degrade image quality. Why anyone still uses them is beyond me.

If you have any PS skills I strongly recommend you do not waste time and money on GNDs. Whenever your instructor says to use a GND, take two exposures and do the job in post. You will get much better results and save yourself major headaches and money.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

"After years of using graduated ND filters, I've stopped using filter holders and just hold the filter in front of the lens. But for the most part, a simple bracket will handle bright skies and a little post-processing can blend much better than the filter. Plus, no more worries about color cast."

I also did hold the filter in front of the lens. Today I do not use them any longer. I see more use for my ND filters.
You are correct, a color cast was a very good possibility when I used GND filters but I must say they are also today with ND filters. Breakthrough filters are excellent color neutral filters.

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

I agree and that's exactly what I always do. I use ND filters but no graduated ones as they are not needed.

Canisdirus

Yup...broken record again.

You don't need them...not anymore.

Barring the 'lens protection' argument with UV filters...

You basically only need a good CP and a good set of ND's today.

They are best to do 'in shot'...almost everything else can be done in post...and better as well.

catterar Loc: Angier, NC

Thank you all for your insightful replies. I can see the wisdom of bracketing and blending in post.
Would something like the Lee System still be of use for ND filters rather than screw in ND filters for motion blur effect?

Canisdirus

Oh sure...each system has their pros and cons...but screw in or slot...both do ND's with aplomb.

I would say...and I own several slotters...light leakage is more of a concern than with screw in.

I picked up a Sirui system not long ago...on sale from 129 to 19 bucks. Hey...that's an auto buy...I bought two in fact.

It may still be around on sale...let me check. It's well built...aluminum...padded...pretty nice. It includes a CP filter as well.

Edit: Here it is...my link still works. These sales get buried sometimes.

Throw it in the cart...then look for reviews if you wish to...your choice.

https://www.adorama.com/sindh10082.html

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

Why do you think the professional photographers running your workshop recommend graduated filters? I have taken landscape workshops and online courses and they all recommend rectangular filter systems. Bracketing then blending in PS can give good results and it is another tool in your toolkit, but so is the use of ND and GND filters. Another very good reason for a good set of ND filters is for slow shutter speed shots like moving clouds or water.

As far as color cast goes, it's a BS argument. Just take a picture of a pocket gray card (I use QP card 101 you can get a pack of 3 at B&H for $18), which you should be doing anyway, and adjust in post. The other BS part of the color cast argument is we almost always adjust color in post no matter what. A scene may look better a bit warmer than the original to simulate early morning light. A lot of the time I color grade to bring out blues in skies, or blues or greens in water, or oranges in clouds around the sun, or greens in foliage, ...

jcboy3

I have to disagree. White balance correction can smooth out some color cast, but frequently the color cast has strong peaks and the only way to properly correct is with a more precise color correction that can be done using something like a colorchecker. Which is a significant hassle although it can produce much better results.