gvarner wrote:
I’ve seen everything from 300 to 3200. Aside from slow scan times, what’s the pros and cons of low versus high? Full disclosure: I did mine at 600 with the plan to scan at much higher if I had a real good one that I wanted to make a large print with.
Think of it this way. If you scan an 8x10 print at 300 dpi, that yields an output file of 2400 by 3000 pixels. That is sufficient to make an 8x10 print that is nearly indistinguishable from the original, IF you have everything set correctly for color and tonal scale. But if you scan a 1.42" by .94" (36x24mm) frame of 35mm film at 300 dpi, that yields only 426 by 282 pixels! That will make a nice "large postage stamp" sized print, or a "yearbook portrait panel page print." And because slide mounts crop the original film a bit, you will probably have even fewer pixels than the theoretical 426x282.
The benefit of scanning at resolutions much higher than the 300 or 600 dpi is that
you will have a file you can actually use for something other than social media or a "for position only" placeholder in a book or magazine layout. A "300 dpi scan" means you are capturing just 300 samples per inch
of original film, which means it makes one inch of photo quality output. If you want to scan for printing, you have to capture a lot more than 300 dots per inch of original. (Really, those "dots" are square "grid cells" mapped from the scanner glass).
So scan for the target print size:5 inches on the short side and smaller: Scan for 300 PPI output (i.e.; make a file with 1500 pixels by 300 x [the longer print dimension])
8 inches on the short side: Scan for 240 PPI output (i.e.; make a file with 1920 pixels by 240 x [the longer print dimension])
12 inches on the short side: Scan for 200 PPI output (i.e.; make a file with 2400 pixels by 200 x [the longer print dimension])
16 inches on the short side: Scan for 180 PPI output (i.e.; make a file with 2880 pixels by 180 x [the longer print dimension])
Most of my negatives and slides are 3:2 aspect ratio frames of 35mm film. I "camera scan" (copy them with a macro lens on a 16 MP camera) to as close to 4608 x 3072 pixels as I can capture, knowing I can make about a 24" by 16" print from that at a minimum. If I were scanning them, that would equate to about 3200 dpi at 100% on the film.
In reality, most flatbed scanners cannot resolve 3200 dpi, even if they are advertised as scanning to much larger file sizes. Most of them
effectively resolve somewhere between 1800 and 2400 dpi from film. That's plenty for medium format film, but marginal for 35mm film, which is why I turned to camera scanning.
With my 1:1 macro lens, I can scan a 17.3mm by 13.0mm area of film, to 4608 x 3456 pixels. So I can crop away roughly 3/4 the area of a 35mm slide...
The benefit of camera scanning is the ability to capture files as fast as you can load the film or slide in the holder. The detriment of it is having to clean the film first, and having to still do some spotting, negative conversion, and/or tonal or color correction in post-processing. To learn more about that method, read the attached PDF file.
The slide is Kodachrome 64 camera scanned and processed in Lightroom Classic. View download on 4K monitor at 100% if possible.