tungsten lighting in gyms
Nov 1, 2012 07:22:59 #
Besides hating it, can anyone make a suggestion on proper settings to handle this type of lighting. Getting a lot of blue pics. Ran with AV setting, set camera to tungsten lighting, even tried to customize the setting but to no avail.
Nov 1, 2012 08:19:14 #
What happens if you leave the White Balance on auto? I don't believe that the lights are "normal" tungsten lights. Many places use Halogen bulbs in locations like that.
Nov 1, 2012 09:08:15 #
Tried that and i still got blue. Some are better then others and tried to find a sweet spot but couldn't do it!
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Nov 1, 2012 09:19:45 #
Will need to use a sheet of white paper, ExpoDisc or something similar to create a Custom White Balance for that location.
Nov 1, 2012 11:35:29 #
Here is the problem in many gyms - not sure, of course, if it is the case for you.
They use mercury vapor lights and the lights change color as they go through the 60 cycle current. The only way to see the whole spectrum would only be visible if you shoot at or slower than 1/60 sec. - hardly practical for sports. The usual colors though, are magenta and green. You see one color at the start of the cycle and another at the end and a decent white in the middle. If the bulbs are on different circuits, they don't sync, so you could have a magenta, a greenish, and an OK cast in different parts of the same image.
I dealt with this in a hockey and a swimming pool venue and there is no correction for it. Shooting raw and correcting portions of individual images is the only approach.
Having said all this - these images look like the same color cast in all of them, so I am thinking the mercury vapor problem may not apply here. If the color cast is consistent, then the advice to use a white card, a gray card, the Expodisc, etc., might be the best approach. Auto WB might be worth a try, but I would go for the custom WB.
They use mercury vapor lights and the lights change color as they go through the 60 cycle current. The only way to see the whole spectrum would only be visible if you shoot at or slower than 1/60 sec. - hardly practical for sports. The usual colors though, are magenta and green. You see one color at the start of the cycle and another at the end and a decent white in the middle. If the bulbs are on different circuits, they don't sync, so you could have a magenta, a greenish, and an OK cast in different parts of the same image.
I dealt with this in a hockey and a swimming pool venue and there is no correction for it. Shooting raw and correcting portions of individual images is the only approach.
Having said all this - these images look like the same color cast in all of them, so I am thinking the mercury vapor problem may not apply here. If the color cast is consistent, then the advice to use a white card, a gray card, the Expodisc, etc., might be the best approach. Auto WB might be worth a try, but I would go for the custom WB.
Nov 1, 2012 11:58:32 #
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