wjones8637 Loc: Burleson, TX

For some time now I have looked at various stores for a wooden crate suitable for still life photos without success. I think the raw materials to make one are now in my driveway. We are getting the roof replaced and there are seven pallets of materials. For those who do this type of shooting, what is a good size for the crate? I am thinking about 24"x36"x 18" deep. I will probably have enough material for two crates giving me some options for sizes.

Part two is advice on getting a weathered wood appearance. I'm sure Lowes or Home Depot have stains, but is there a way to get the appearance more naturally. I'm getting old so setting it out in the backyard isn't an option.

Thank you in advance for all help.

Bill

CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska

A crate for what purpose?

wjones8637 Loc: Burleson, TX

I envision using it with a cloth of some sort two create photos of flowers, fruit, and/or miscellaneous objects.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You might consider instead a folding tent, such as these options:

https://www.amazon.com/Photo-Background-Shooting-Tents/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_5?ie=UTF8&node=3444581

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Do you have the opportunity to visit second-hand stores, semi-antique stores or flea markets? I have often seen old crates and boxes with lots of personality and weathered look, including authentic apple storage boxes (central Washington State).

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Former UHH user Travesty posted wonderful still life photos composed within a crate; it was his signature style and prop: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-168413-1.html

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CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska

I’m laughing at myself. I was picturing shipping crates or storage crates and envisioning that huge warehouse from that last scene of ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark.’
…Cam

tradio Loc: Oxford, Ohio

As Linda From Maine previously said, take a look at Travesty's work - awesome.
Coffee makes a good cheap (not Starbucks) stain..

rcorne001 Loc: Cary, NC

I too, was thinking of something totally different. But now that I understand, that is really interesting. The work by Travesty has got my mind considering the possibilities. Thank you for posting!

wjones8637 Loc: Burleson, TX

Linda,

I think I recall you posting some still lifes in a crate. If I'm correct, what size crate you recommend?

Bill

bikinkawboy Loc: north central Missouri

If you use a high pressure washer on softwoods (pine, certain firs, spruce), the water will have eat away the softer grain between the rings. Get some very fine steel wool, usually found at hardware stores where the sandpaper is. Not the Brillo pad kind. Some has a bit of oily coating to prevent rust, if so wash with liquid detergent. Fill a pint or quart fruit jar nearly full with white vinegar and stuff one or two steel wool pads in it. Put a lid on the jar but don’t tighten down, leaving only a small air space. The wool will start to bubble so set the jar in some sort of container. Give it a day or two. When you paint the liquid onto the wood, it will change the wood to gray or black. High tannin woods like oak will go very dark, silver maple will turn gray. If you give your juice too much time to soak, especially with access to air, it will liters rust and the wood will turn brown.

Initially try applying some juice after soaking approximately 24 hours. If it’s not dark enough, let the wool soak a little longer. You can always apply several coats to get the color you want. When you apply it, pour some out into another container because dipping the paint brush into the large container after painting the board can contaminate it and cause it to darken. Some woods will turn brown, gray or nearly black depending upon the tannin content, so it will be trial and error to see what you get since pallets are normally made from any various species of trees.

Oh, the acetic acid in the vinegar dissolves the steel wool, forming ferric acid, which reacts with the acidic tannins in wood. Good luck!

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

There are probably many ways to simulate old wood, but there is nothing like real old, aged, and weathered wood.

I have been, lately, doing lots of industrial photography on demolition and construction sites. These are virtual "lumber yards" of old wood. During a demo operation, the wood is piled into dumpsters and hauled away. I have amassed a pretty good inventory of barn wood and all kinds of old grainy boards.

Currently, I am working on illustrating a book on antique kitchen and farm implements. I am testing some of my old wood to use in the still life layouts. This kind of material can be easily cut, mitered and used to construct boxes and crates for still life photography.

When I work on these sites or pass one by, I can usually ask the site superintendent to let me grab a few boards. planks, and parts of old fences. Somet it closes me a lunch! These guys can EAT!!!

The real old stuff has more character or patina than simulated pieces. You can apply certain oils to bring up the grain.

Some of the prop h suppliers have ready-made crates. The Set Shop in New York ships all over the country. Some of the background suppliers like Denny may also stock crates. I pref to get old wood and make my own.

The "Bell" shot has a chunk of driftwood.

As you can see, I must admit, I do tend to spend a lotsof time in junkyards, flea markets and antique shops! PROPS!

Jeffcs Loc: Myrtle Beach South Carolina

I comply agree great total control over even lighting

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

I think he’s actually envisioning an old crate as part of the subject.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Sorry, no that wasn't me. Most recent I recall - though I haven't been keeping up with UHH - is Vicksart:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-717386-1.html
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-714485-1.html

Hopefully, you saw my link to Travesty's topics?