I know, use a tripod, higher ISO, and higher shutter speed. I have an excellent tripod but it is hard to get on a plane. A monopod and remote shutter release taped to lens? Give up shooting birds? Any suggestion helpful.
A good monopod should be enough. I usually pack mine in my suitcase. A remote shutter release help solve any hand shaking problem.
Crabby Guy wrote:
I know, use a tripod, higher ISO, and higher shutter speed. I have an excellent tripod but it is hard to get on a plane. A monopod and remote shutter release taped to lens? Give up shooting birds? Any suggestion helpful.
I use a wireless remote shutter release quite often, and you don't have to tape them to anything. Just make sure you have spare batteries.
I like to do airshows. Many military shows will not allow any photographic equipment outside of the camera. For a lot of prop aircraft, to get a really good shot you looking at 1/100th or 1/80 second shutter. What I do, when I'm really on my game, is shoot in 4 shot bursts, 5 to 7 frames per second. First and last of the set are usually always throw away. One of the other two is usually a keeper. (And if not, they are coming around again.)
Crabby Guy wrote:
I know, use a tripod, higher ISO, and higher shutter speed. I have an excellent tripod but it is hard to get on a plane. A monopod and remote shutter release taped to lens? Give up shooting birds? Any suggestion helpful.
You can also put a cord on your monopod so you can push it away and keep the cord tight to possibly get a little help. Attach the cord to the monopod and loop it around your neck. You will have to adjust the length to get it taunt when the camera is at your eye.
MrBob
Loc: lookout Mtn. NE Alabama
You did not mention whether or not your gear had any kind of stabilization... In body, in lens, or combination of both... I had great success with keepers when I started using a monopod with a Slik pistol grip ball head... Maybe you could hold pistol grip on monopod in your good left hand for target acquisition and use remote shutter release in your right hand. I know Olympus has great stabilization and their newer models have Pro Mode which starts starts shooting many FPS as soon as shutter is half way depressed. You should NOT have to give up shooting birds... just shoot more bursts and cull out the ones you don't want. memory is cheap.
Get a monopod pocket. Or, one like a boy scout uses to carry a flag. Manfrotto makes them. Stuff a shortened monopod foot into the pocket. If you don't have the pocket, tuck it behind your belt. It helps to have a ball head to make the angle more comfortable. That and a stabilized lens will keep you shooting birds Crabby Guy!
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Crabby Guy wrote:
I know, use a tripod, higher ISO, and higher shutter speed. I have an excellent tripod but it is hard to get on a plane. A monopod and remote shutter release taped to lens? Give up shooting birds? Any suggestion helpful.
Wimberley MH-100 head for a monopod could be very useful for you.
B&H currently has it in stock.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
Don't dismiss a monopod. I prefer a tilt head over a ball / gimbal for a monopod. Mount the lens, via collar and lens plate, into the clamp on the head. Keep the IS / VR / IBIS active when using the monopod.
Crabby Guy wrote:
I know, use a tripod, higher ISO, and higher shutter speed. I have an excellent tripod but it is hard to get on a plane. A monopod and remote shutter release taped to lens? Give up shooting birds? Any suggestion helpful.
More of the obvious, but does your really long lens have its own mount to monopod/tripod? Hanging on the camera makes it inherently shaky. If the lens does not have a mount built in, or a ring that came with it, you can buy the ring for it--some even have quick-mount shoe.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripod-Lens-Mount-Rings/b?node=3190374011 I have a walking stick with height adjustment and camera mount discretely on top, and museums that don't allow tripods have let me use that (it does not interfere with foot traffic). The Americans with Disabilities Act might squawk if they did not allow walking sticks, but some do not allow cameras at all if they sell photos of their art.
Tamron makes "the world's smallest and lightest telephoto zoom lens" (70-300) that is under 6 inches long, but I think it is only available for Sony E-mount mirrorless (covers full frame)--probably adaptable to other mirrorless.
https://petapixel.com/2020/09/25/tamron-unveils-the-worlds-smallest-telephoto-zoom-lens-for-sony-e-mount/
Drbobcameraguy wrote:
You can also put a cord on your monopod so you can push it away and keep the cord tight to possibly get a little help. Attach the cord to the monopod and loop it around your neck. You will have to adjust the length to get it taunt when the camera is at your eye.
Stance with a monopod is important too. Angle the foot of the monopod away from your feet to form your own tripod geometry.
MrBob
Loc: lookout Mtn. NE Alabama
gvarner wrote:
Stance with a monopod is important too. Angle the foot of the monopod away from your feet to form your own tripod geometry.
Walking stick with quickly unscrewed " Cane " head so ball head can be attached is great for travel etc... Carry sm. ballhead etc... in pocket and convert to monopod at your discretion... Go through airports etc... as a walking cane. 3/8 16 tapped insert on top of walking stick is great.
nicksr1125 wrote:
A good monopod should be enough. I usually pack mine in my suitcase. A remote shutter release help solve any hand shaking problem.
These are very good recommendations. I have Olympus Cameras these cameras have very good IBIS and even long lenses are rather small. Such cameras are easy to use and rather light weight.
Tripod cable release. There are some wonderful shipping cases available for tripods monopods I suggest taking both with you. And I look up motion picture and video equipment businesses in your area they will have a variety of the shipping cases. This is not something you can usually find in a basic camera store
Nikon, makes a fabulous 300 mm PF lens it has a five stop stabilization which can be in addition to stabilization in the camera. It’s half the size of a traditional 300 mm and half the weight this creates a whole new set of possibilities. Remember that the newer cameras can be use it higher iso Without any detriment to the image. This combination with a mono pod I’ll give you a lot of success
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