CANONBILLY Loc: Bainsville Ontario

I have several rolls of KODAK EXTRA CHROME 100 which has an expiry date of 2005;
QUESTION
1) Still good?
2) where to process e6 stock??

I am considering taking my CANON A1 out of mothballs (storage) . . . reason my CANON 1dMrk4 is misbehaving

RoswellAlien

I had an A1. Wish I still did.

ELNikkor

I also have some frozen Elite Chrome I was planning on shooting this year. There is a lab in Rochester that will process it, but I have a lot of other frozen Ektachrome, so I may buy a kit and process it myself. There may be some color shifts, but with today's scanning and adjusting, the images will be salvageable, if not acceptable from the start.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

How has the film been stored? If frozen or refrigerated, you might find it's almost as good as new. Most places online will process the film. You might shoot one roll, with notes, to see how it behaves at the box-speed and ISO or EC adjustments to +2/3 to -2/3 stops of similar images for comparison.

A place like TheDarkRoom.com provides E6 processing. Look at having them scan the images too. The PDF order form shows the pixel resolution of the scan options, at 1024px, 2048px and 4492px, each at a different cost. I wouldn't bother with a 1024px scan, that image is too small except to display on your phone. If you search other online processors, maybe after a test-roll to DarkRoom, use the cost of postage and the cost of higher-resolution scans as a basis of comparison for the overall pricing.

If the film hasn't been stored refrigerated, it will still work / shoot, but the colors may be all over the place. Again, a test roll with detailed notes on the exposure settings will help determine how to use the remainder of the stock. Consider too an EOS film body. Personally, my eyes won't let me focus the manual focus FD lenses with just a optical view finder, not anywhere as 'in focus' as with AF lenses. An EOS film body will let you use your EF lenses from your DSLR. Even a cheapo / cheaper EOS body with 3- or 7-AF points might deliver better focus than a manual focus FD lens.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

You might try Replicolor lab in Salt Lake City. I found them sort of by accident and have used them several times. I've found their service to be quite good and their prices quite competitive.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

If you have a lot of it, you might consider photographing a ColorChecker test chart in noon daylight to hone the real speed rating. That would also reveal color bias or shift.

Back in the 1980s when I burned through a 20-roll brick of Ektachrome every other week, I would order a 300-roll case (all same emulsion number) keep most of it refrigerated, and do an initial test roll to establish speed and color accuracy. I ran a control strip with each batch of film I processed, then evaluated it on a densitometer and plotted statistical process control charts that told me when I needed replenishment, pH adjustment, or new chemicals altogether. Emulsion speed was often +1/3 or -1/3 stop from the box speed, and some batches had a yellow or magenta cast. I used a gel filter holder and Kodak color correction filters to compensate when I had to mix batches on a job.

(Yeah, I know, picky! But when you do a show with 800 slides in it, and the color jumps around, even the company president gets annoyed. Then your boss gets annoyed...)

E6 is best processed under controlled conditions, so consider a lab that has a bit of volume. It is a bit difficult to find one with fresh chemistry these days. If your lab uses a roller transport processor, RUN to another lab! Low utilization rates mean crystals build up on the rollers and scratch your film. Tarry sludge can form in the developer, too, and leave little black specks on your slides. A lab with a "no touch" film processor such as a Refrema dip-and-dunk, or a deep sink line using stainless steel reels and Nitrogen burst agitation with a temperature control unit, is great.

These days, if you have a sous vide kitchen cooking appliance, you can keep the process at the proper temperature at home, with relative ease.

Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore

I'm going to save these names as i know there might be a roll somewhere in my house from the many moves in my earlier life

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

I had an A1 and never liked it. Bought another F1 instead.

VTMatwood Loc: Displaced Vermonta in Central New Hampsha

The Darkroom.com does all of my E6 film processing. General rule is to add 1 stop for exposure for every decade the film is expired, so in your case add 1.5 stops. As others have said, depending on how the film has been stored, the colors can be all over the place. I like shooting expired film (both color and B&W) as u really never know what you will get. I don't recommend using it for those once in s lifetime moments though ;).

Enjoy your experience!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

There are specialists who develop old film. Darkroom.com is one of them.

That said, if you find a roll of old, EXPOSED film:

https://www.filmrescue.com/
https://www.oldfilmprocessing.com

Phil Yasskin Loc: Huntington Beach, CA

I still have my Canon AE-1 and it is in good working order. But I also have a Canon EOS-3 film camera that works with all my Canon lenses. I have taken it out of the mothballs and inserted a new battery. I’m ready to try my hand at some B & W photo taking.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Have fun! The 'biggest' improvement I've made in my film game is over-exposing. It kind of depends on the film, but anywhere from +1/3 to +1-stop has made a huge difference in my results. You can make that change by overriding the film DX code, say changing ISO-400 to ISO-200 via the override. Or, just dialing in +EC. The camera's features kind of determine the easiest approach.

Phil Yasskin Loc: Huntington Beach, CA

Thanks for your suggestions.