JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

I am using my Sony A6300 which has been modified by stripping off the CFA (Color Filter Array) and UV-IR filter into a full spectrum mono camera. And I am using a Samyang 18mm f2.8 lens. A mono camera behaves like a film camera behaves with mono film in that it allows the use of different colored filters for different effects. Many years ago, I enjoyed using Tri-X film with colored filters, and now I have this same experience all over again.

First image is a grouping of cedar trees. There is some change in the cedar trees between IR 720nm and non-IR with Orange filter. Also, there is a big difference in the darkness of the sky. Note: I didn't shoot the comparisons on the same day and could not remember where I had been standing, so the perspective is different. Also, the time of day is different, and the shadows aren't in the same directions.

Next is a comparison using deciduous trees. A much different comparison in that the IR 720nm are actually white with a dark sky. With the orange filter, the sky is not nearly so dark. I also tried using a yellow filter. The trees were not much different from the orange filter, and the sky was even lighter than the orange filter.

Image 1: IR 720nm of the cedar trees

Image 2: non-IR using Orange Filter & UV_IR cut filter to make sure that no IR light affects image.

Image 3: Switching to deciduous trees. This is the IR 720nm image. The leaves are very white.

Image 4: non-IR using Orange Filter & UV_IR cut filter to make sure that no IR light affects image. Leaves darker this time.

Image 5: IR 720nm - Both a cedar tree and several deciduous trees, plus trees that haven't got their leaves back yet.

IR 720nm of the cedar trees

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non-IR using Orange Filter & UV_IR cut filter

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IR 720nm of deciduous trees

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non-IR using Orange Filter & UV_IR cut filter

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One more to see both kinds of trees in same image

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adedeluca Loc: holbrook ny

Super cool

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

I to love infrared photography. I have a Fuji IS-P 580nm and a set of Pica filters but lately I've been using a Toyo 4X5" view camera and a Fuji GX680 (6X8cm) with a Betterlight 6k back that captures at 720 (full color) nm. Cool stuff off the computer but my back is killing me from all the weight. Like to hear more. Cheers.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

That does sound like a back breaker! I discovered the site MonochromeImaging.com, and they concentrate on modifying Sony E-Mount cameras. And I had a Sony A6300 that was not getting much use since I also had a Sony A6600 and Sony A7iii. So, I went for it. The cost was $900. Very happy with this choice, although to do it again, I would have opted to go with a full frame Sony A7ii or better. Reason being is the A6300 can only capture in lossy compressed RAW, and the detail is so good with a mono sensor (no demosaicing) that it is possible to sometimes see the effects of the lossy compression. I have found that Topaz Gigapixel AI can fix that problem if I resize by about 1.03x. But I don't see this problem on all images.

The A6300 is reasonable small, and with primes that I use with it, it is very easy to carry around. I like to use the 10-18mm Sony, the 18mm Samyang, the 35mm Sony, the 50mm Sony and one of my real favorites, the legacy Vivatar 55mm f2.8 macro (made by Komine). Also, I have a 24mm Rokkor f2.5 that is outstanding with it too.

I find that this is one of my most used cameras now.

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Sounds good. No hot spots with the "C" sensor? One of the problems with IR is hot spots and I do notice this with some lenses so I put a sticker on them so I won't take them when I go out shooting IR with my Fuji.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Yes, no hot spots on the ones I listed above. In fact, some of the images I posted were done at f8 to increase DOF which would tend to increase hot spots if they were there. And still no hot spots. Perhaps if I would push it to f22, I would see something. But then again, how often do I use f22?

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Yes, one of my favorite is an old micro 60mm f32 yes, that is not a mistype. f32 on a 35mm. Hay it works for me. Cheers.

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

FYI My understanding is hotspots have to do with the lens. Kolarivision.com has a comprehensive list of good/bad lenses for infrared. The infrared photos here don’t look like mine. You need to do a custom white balance on green grass for 720nm.
Good resources for infrared are:
Kolarivision.com
Lifepixel.com

They do conversions and have lots of resources and instruction on their websites.
Hope this helps.

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Yes, I use their list.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Perhaps this is more like what you are used to? It is rather easy to give it a different look.

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Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Very nice. I have a lot like this bet I do 850nm and do a complete B&W look. This is what I like mostly but do some color also.

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

I prefer this look I tried 590 but didn’t care for it.

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Wee are artist. We do what we want to do not what we have to do.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Here is one taken with an 850nm filter. Not much color in the image when using this filter. But never-the-less, I did the Red-Blue channel swap and then proceeded to see what I would get.

There was not much, if any color in the trees. But the channel swap did give me a blue sky. The sky started out way too blue, but some vibrance adjust took care of that.

But I just don't think I like Blue & White. So, the 2nd image is Black & White which is what one usually gets from a 850nm filter.

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Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Nice.