gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Can a very high shutter speed eliminate camera shake and, if so, what would that be?

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Wouldn't that depend on the intensity of the camera shake?
It will certainly reduce the effect.

Mustanger Loc: Grants Pass, Oregon USA

Set it for SS of 1000-3000and it will do very well. Go down lower in steps as you study where you lose sharpness

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Thanks. That’s kind of the range I was thinking about.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The age-old rule of thumb is a minimum shutter speed should be 1/(focal length) such as 1/50 sec or faster for 50mm, 1/320 sec or faster for a 300mm lens, and so forth. If using a crop sensor, you need to factor that into the equation, so 1/80 sec for a 50mm on a 1.5 crop, etc.

Personally, I'm a big fan of modern IS/VR and IBIS technologies that seem to have more impact than a faster shutterspeed. You have to test your specific lenses / mirrorless bodies, but you may see reliably sharp images at 2- to 4-stops slower than the 1/(focal-length) guideline. Of course, IS/VR/IBIS doesn't freeze the subject if that's what you actually need the faster shutterspeed to accomplish.

Timmers Loc: San Antonio Texas.

This will come as a vary large shock to most who consider this question of camera shake and shutters (Leave out the 'speed' part of it). Back in the late 20's and as the early 30's rolled in one camera maker introduced a shutter design based on precisely this issue (this is really before the era of the SLR and it's mirror problems). When a focal plane shutter is released the first curtain travels, then the second curtain travels to close the opening that is there to expose the film. It is the stopping of this first curtain that is where the problem lies.

In 1932 E. Leitz, of Leica camera fame introduced a redesigned shutter that this first curtain did NOT just stop, rather it's force was arrested by allowing the first curtain to wind around it's take up drum and so by not stopping abruptly the curtain had it's energy dissipated. By the time that first curtain is reaching a stopping position, the second shutter has already traveled across the film's surface and so eliminates this issue.

Yes, Leica cameras are the only cameras made that have this design. It is not a difficult nor expensive design and why it was never adopted in the engineering designs of cameras, your guess would be as good as mine.

And thus, this is why Leica cameras are renowned for producing the best possible images. You can have great sharp optics, but when you combine those optics with poor engineering you get the results that most see. And that is why everyone tells you that you need to try it for yourself.

By the way, if you want to HEAR that Leica shutter, set it to a low speed and press your ear close to the rear of the camera, it sounds like a bunch of ball bearings rolling back and forth, that is the first curtain NOT stopping abruptly.

photogeneralist Loc: Lopez Island Washington State

I have very shaky hands so even with IBIS turned on, my shutter speed for acceptable freedom from camera motion is twice the focal length. Even then,tripod mounting results in better sharpness than does hand holding with elevated shutter speed

A good tripod is worth it's cost if you are interested in sharp photos. A cheap tripod is just wasted money

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The old (35mm SLR) rule was 1/focal length in use would be the starting point for steadiness. I used to hand hold a 35mm lens at 1/30 with good results, so long as the subject was stationary. So the rule of thumb was at least reasonable, if not entirely reliable. When I drank too much coffee, it fell apart!

For APS-C sensors, that focal length has to be multiplied by 1.5, as in 1/(1.5 x focal length).

For Micro 4/3 sensors, the focal length has to be multiplied by 2, as in 1/(2 x focal length).

Fortunately, we now have various "vibration reduction," and "image stabilization," systems. There are in-body stabilizers and in-lens stabilizers, and systems that use both schemes in tandem. The better systems tend to advertise over five stops of stabilization, with OM Systems (formerly Olympus) claiming something close to 7 stops for their latest models.

filmstage28 Loc: CA

Maybe a tripod for shake what do you think?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Good technique is required to reliably eliminate camera shake. But so can image stabilization. all images below were made with lens optical stabilization turned on.

These first two images were taken hand held at 1/25 sec. The waterfall was @150mm, the cat was zoomed to 600mm. The last was at 1/10 sec, 18mm with a cropped sensor camera.

The usual guidance is to use the reciprocal of the effective focal length as the shutter speed - so a 150mm on FX camera would be 1/150 sec or shorter. At 600mm it would be 1/600 sec or shorter. ON the crop camera the effective focal length of an 18mm lens is 27mm, so the guidance calls for a shutter speed of 1/27 or shorter.

But as you can see, that is just guidance - it is possible to shoot at speeds far slower than the guidance if you keep calm, breathe normally, press the shutter gently at the end of an exhale, and stay away from coffee, tea, energy drinks, amphetamines, etc.

1/25 sec 150mm

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1/25 sec, 600mm

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crop from above

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1/10 sec, 18mm

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User ID

Yes, reeeeally high. Extra reeeeally high for longer FLs and bady balanced outfits.

User ID

No. That sound is the second curtain delay clockwork rebounding. The first curtain’s run is already long over.

home brewer Loc: Fort Wayne, Indiana

The longer the lens the more effect on blur from camera movement. Also higher pixel count cameras are more likely to show camera movement. Steve Perry has videos on this subject.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

There is no one answer. Every subject and every lens is different, as are the weather conditions in which you are making the image. I generally follow the 1/focal length rule, but I adjust it as needed. The camera's systems can't do anything about subject movement. Are you photographing a tree, a person or a race car. How windy is it. And on and on. Best of luck.

Nalu Loc: Southern Arizona

I asked a friend of mine who is a professional bird photographer who constantly seeks the sharpest images his equipment can generate (just his style) where he sets his shutter speed when he starts a session. His response, 1/4000. “I am not afraid of image noise” he noted. “I want to start with a sharp image.” It was a good lesson for me because I was always afraid of high ISO’s.