DaveC Loc: Illinois

This is sort of a hypothetical question since I really don’t wish to spend this much. But:

I take a wide variety of photos but this would relate mostly to my nature and wildlife work. I am quite shaky in holding and end up with a lot of blurred photos. Some background. I’m 87. I have never been very strong, more the 97 pound weakling type. For years I was fine but as I got older I got shakier. I compensated to some extent by heavier equipment. (A Nikon 7100 with aux battery box,and a L-bracket.) I found the weight helped dampen my shaking to some extent. Then VR came along and I bought some VR lenses. That also helped. But as I get older I also get weaker and I find that the increased weight is as much a hinderance as a help. On top of that I have, the last few years, developed Essential Tremor where my hands shake. This is continuing to get worse with time. So, I am looking for a solution. Please don’t say tripods, I bought my first tripod, a Linholf, about 1956 and I now have tripods everywhere. The same with monopods. And a piece of string attached to the bottom. Etc. It’s not my type of photography, plus it’s more weight. Anyway, my thought is, if I should buy a Nikon Z6II, and also continue to use my existing Nikon lenses with VR, would the additional VR in the camera body make a noticeable improvement in optical steadiness?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You probably want to move away from the heaviest cameras, aka: full-frame. Yes, the IBIS couples with the lens VR adding even more stabilization support. But, you can get these same features in a smaller package at a lower total weight. And of course, remember to use your tripod(s), or monopod(s) for more mobility.

CO

I know that you said a piece of string is out. A stringpod does actually help to steady shots. I went on a trip and was not able to bring a tripod. I made a couple of stringpods and it helps to steady the camera. You just get a 1/4"-20 eyelet bolt and tie a piece of rope to it. You step on the end of the rope and pull up a little. The tension in the rope will steady the camera to a degree. It's not as good as using a tripod, but it helps.

Bubbee Loc: Aventura, Florida

Why not do what the sports and bird and animal photographers do. Use very high shutter speeds ....along with high iso's? In other words, you are the moving object, not the subject. And the VR in both camera and lens is great. Hold your camera tight to your chest and avoid long lenses.
Keep shooting!

DaveC Loc: Illinois

Thanks but no. I made one of those years ago and carried it with me. I tried it off and on. Yes, it helped steadiness. So does any of my tripods. But not practical for me. If I’m pushing thru woods and underbrush and see a bird in a tree I have to be quick. I might not even find a place to put it down in the sticks, bark, mud, etc. It just didn’t work for me from a practical point.

Floyd Loc: Misplaced Texan in Florence, Alabama

I'm almost your age and found a good gimbal head and a higher shutter speed over come most of my shaky hands problem. Also, a small remote to fire the shutter helps as it removes the small vibration of pushing the shutter.

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Try renting a z6 2 and see if it helps.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Sometimes, a heavier object is easier to steady than a lighter one. I used to have a Minox, and that could be a challenge to hold steady. When I have to use a low shutter speed without a tripod, I find something to lean up against, and I hold my arms close to my body. Breath control is also important. Some say to inhale and hold it, while others say to exhale and hold it. Just don't hold it too long. : )

For my essential tremor, Propranolol seems to help.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

I struggle with unsteadiness more and more and hate carrying a tripod. I usually carry a full frame camera. I bought a compact camera, thinking that it would be easier to steady. I find that actually I do better with the heavier cameras. And I really struggle trying to get a good image with my cell! However, you might find that having stabilization in both the camera and in the lens might help. Being able to lean against something solid helps.

Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.

Learned from my Dad some 65-70 years ago:
Hold the camera with left hand around the lens, thumb pointing to the right.
Right hand in a position that makes it easy to have your index finger on the shutter release.
If you wear glasses, take them off and adjust the diopter for your eye - the one you use to look through the viewfinder - I think the left eye for most people.
Push the camera against your nose and forehead, and push your elbows against your sides.
Have your feet a little apart. If necessary you could lean against a car, a wall, a tree....
Breath in, out, stop breathing and at the same time push the shutterbutton.
It may take a bit of practice, so don't give up after trying this once or twice!
And oh, don't forget to start breathing normally again!

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

I'm ten years your junior and wiggle too much too. Last year I bought a gimbaled camera. It looks like a toy and I can't put a telephoto lens on it. Originally I saw it as a video camera. Then I discovered the photo side. It shoots RAW and will, with some electronic magic, create a 64 MP image file. I can wiggle all I want and the camera is rock steady.

Read up on and watch some YouTube on the "DJI Pocket 2".

Najataagihe

Gyro-stabilizer.

Hip Coyote

Weakling my foot. You’re out there shooting! Wow. Great job

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

The very high shutter speed would mean using very high ISOs. High ISOs are addressed by The Journal of Wildlife Photography in this book: https://journalofwildlifephotography.com/got-noise/?fbclid=IwAR0zc1mMg0xyMqYdEgMmK9H1S90yDDqLQGfvyFS-bv8Sjnd7k_MgGs9gAgs

The e-mail from them started by commenting that as a wildlife photographer working often in poor light the author used ISO's as high as 20,000. The high ISO will allow higher SS and help offset the camera motion. Then the things in this book will help with the noise from the high ISOs.

I have found that Topaz DeNoise AI does a good job on most noise and Topaz Sharpen AI has 9 different modes, three of them deal with motion blur.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Bubbee, I have learned that practical advice is ignored unless it is costly. You are exactly right, Shutter speed in extreme like Superman can stop a speeding bullet; coupled with high ISO ... the combo is invincible.

Inertia is another useful thing straight from the physics books. I have often recommended a Tennis Ball filled with plaster of Paris with a 1/4-20 screw extending and attached to the hole at the bottom of the camera. With sufficient length, the left hand can eagle claw the ball and the right hand can press the side of the camera... arms are held tight to the body.
https://www.instructables.com/iSteadii-20-Image-Stabilizing-Unit/