Whats causing this? (Page 2): Thanks Paul.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

CHG_CANON wrote:

I didn't go through every last possible difference, but the difference in the metering mode in Aperture Priority likely caused the camera to expose the same scene differently.

Thanks Paul.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Ava'sPapa wrote:

Thanks Paul.

As the others noted, there are strings that are clearly not 'on' for the instant the camera was capturing the image. The anti-flicker setting doesn't show in the images I looked at, but that seems to be the next setting to adjust.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

cyclespeed wrote:

I am for LED lights as the use. They change on / off so fast our eyes don't detect it but a short SS does. I had to the close to a dozen pics of our tree lit with LEDs before luck allowed all to be on.

Thanks cyclespeed.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

DirtFarmer wrote:

LED lights running on AC. An LED only lights up when current is flowing in one direction. When it flows the other direction they are dark. This happens 60 times per second so your eyes will not see the flickering. The flicker threshold varies with individuals but is generally below 30/second, which is why that is the movie frame rate.

Use a slower shutter speed.

The actual TV Video frame rate (30P) is just under 30 fps. Movie frame rate is 24.000 fps.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

DirtFarmer wrote:

LED lights running on AC. An LED only lights up when current is flowing in one direction. When it flows the other direction they are dark. This happens 60 times per second so your eyes will not see the flickering. The flicker threshold varies with individuals but is generally below 30/second, which is why that is the movie frame rate.

Use a slower shutter speed.

I'm learning a lot today. Thanks DirtFarmer.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

burkphoto wrote:

The actual TV Video frame rate (30P) is just under 30 fps. Movie frame rate is 24.000 fps.

The movie rate has varied through the years since they used crank cameras. I don't do much video so I'm not that familiar with those things.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flicker_fusion_threshold gives some interesting information. There's a difference between the flicker fusion rate for rods and cones.

And the interlacing on TV gives you a factor of two in the effective frame rate.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

BebuLamar wrote:

You can make the LED stays on all the time too but they are cheap so they use only half wave rectifier.

Thanks a lot for your input.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

BTW - The clock on the right has the same problem with duty cycle.
Look at the first two and the last two.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

Tomfl101 wrote:

I think Gene is correct. Turn on Anti Flicker and I’ll bet the problem goes away. On my R5 it’s on the red menu section 2. The only reason to turn off anti-flicker is that it slows down drive speed while the shutter pauses between exposures in order to capture full illumination of flickering lights. I usually leave it on full time. Stadium and arena lighting is where the problem is most often an issue. Mirrorless cameras seem to be more susceptible to the problem.

Good to know, thanks Tom.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

CHG_CANON wrote:

As the others noted, there are strings that are clearly not 'on' for the instant the camera was capturing the image. The anti-flicker setting doesn't show in the images I looked at, but that seems to be the next setting to adjust.

Anti-flicker setting...check.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

Brian in Whitby wrote:

Diodes, including the light emitting diodes, LEDs,... (show quote)

Merci Brian.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Tomfl101 wrote:

I think Gene is correct. Turn on Anti Flicker and I’ll bet the problem goes away. On my R5 it’s on the red menu section 2. The only reason to turn off anti-flicker is that it slows down drive speed while the shutter pauses between exposures in order to capture full illumination of flickering lights. I usually leave it on full time. Stadium and arena lighting is where the problem is most often an issue. Mirrorless cameras seem to be more susceptible to the problem.

That's a solution, not a cause.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

frankraney wrote:

AC cycles on and off, 60 times a second. That's too fast for your eyes to see, but the camera can. Light talk twinkle (on and off so you can see it) are made different, and labeled as such.

Thank you Frank.

Ava'sPapa Loc: Cheshire, Ct.

burkphoto wrote:

The actual TV Video frame rate (30P) is just under 30 fps. Movie frame rate is 24.000 fps.

Thanks, Bill.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

DirtFarmer wrote:

The movie rate has varied through the years since they used crank cameras. I don't do much video so I'm not that familiar with those things.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flicker_fusion_threshold gives some interesting information. There's a difference between the flicker fusion rate for rods and cones.

And the interlacing on TV gives you a factor of two in the effective frame rate.

The actual in-camera capture rate is still 29.97. The broadcast interlaces the frames.