Gilkar

I have a photogenic 1250 Studio Strobe light set consisting of two heads that I use for volume photography. (Santa pictures are coming up soon). Before I go out on a job I always test my equipment. Doing this has saved my A** numerous times. A recent test showed that one of my heads was not firing. The modeling light and all other functions seem normal. So I began to check things out. My first suspicion was that my radio remotes were not working properly. However, when I tried them on the other unit there was no problem. I next hard wired the unit to the camera, still no flash. I tried tripping the flash manually using a paperclip on the PC connection to make sure the wire wasn't broken. Doing that worked on the working head but not on the one that wasn't firing. So it wasn't a bad sync cord. Finally I tried tripping the unit manually using the test button with no success. There appears to be no damage to the flash tube and as mentioned above the modeling light is working properly. I am tempted to open the unit to check for a loose wire internally. As we all know that is not a good idea, especially if I should inadvertently touch the capacitor. I have seen people knocked across a room when that has happened. However, if I am careful and it is simply a broken wire that would be a simple fix and save a lot of money, (shipping out and back plus the cost of the repair). So the question is 1) Has anyone had a similar problem and fixed it DIY? 2) Assuming DIY is not the answer can anyone recommend a decent repair facility in OHIO? 3) Or anywhere else? Thank you in advance for any helpful suggestions you may have.

EddieE Loc: Dallas, TX

I am not familiar with that unit, but you did not mention checking the fuse.

twowindsbear

Swap the flash tubes.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Did you in fact check/replace the fuse? If so, do you have a DVM (digital multimeter) for trouble shooting? If so, do you have a schematic and understand basic electronics (can you read a schematic?). The large capacitor used in strobes can be deadly. If you know what you’re looking for, it can be discharged with an insulated screwdriver across the terminals, or better yet, with an appropriate bleeder resistor. If you don’t have the tools and the knowledge, find a technician that does and leave it unopened!

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I have several of those units. If the ready light comes on but there is no flash, there is a good chance that the tube is gone. The flash tubes are user changeable and if the unit is turned off and the outer glass envelope is intact, you will not come in contact with the electrodes that conduct the high voltage.

In heavy usages, long duty cycles and high volume work, flash tubes can become carbonized- they blacken or turn gray where the electrodes enter the tube which may cause colour temperature shifts and they will eventually burn out. Sometimes the tube can be damage in transport.

Simply grasp the tube and pull it out. Switch it up with the tube from the functional unit and see if it fires. If it does, just order a replacement tube. If it continues to malfunction with the good tube in place, the problem is most likely in the trigger circuit and that is not a DYI repair.

Again, if the red light comes on and the is no popping or crackling sound, no smoke or odour of burning plastic, the power supply and capacitors are probably OK.

If the unit requires repair, send it to the Photogenic's service department. Here's a link to their website which includes their telephone number and further instructions on sending in the unit. Call first and make certain they still have parts for your model.

http://legacy.photogenic.com/support/service-and-repair/

If for some reason they can not repair it, check with Holly Enterprises at

http://hollyflash.com/

They have a giant inventory of parts for older units and can fix just about anything. Both of these are reliable and honest services.

Attaced is a shot of thetube. When you plug it in, it can only fit in one orientation as per the pin spacing- you can't make a mistake. I always keep a few in stock in case of burnout. The one in the box is been around for 10 years and has no been needed as yet.

Gilkar

Thank you for your suggestion. I have never checked the fuse. I will do so.

Gilkar

Thank you for your suggestion . I will try it.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

And if the fuse is blown, the next question is why?

Gilkar

Thank you for youe suggestions I do have a DVM and I can read a schematic. I do not have one for this unit although I am sure I can download one from somewhere. (Probably Photogenic). I have never discharged a capacitor although I am aware of the insulated screwdriver method. I assume doing this will not damage the capacitor.

Gilkar

Thank you everyone to all of your suggestions. To E.L. Shapiro thank you for the links.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

You did not indicate whether the ready light comes on or not or whether the entire unit is dead. If the fuse is blown, no indicator lights will come on and the modelling lamp won't work because the fuse is on the AC input and will interrupt the current to the power supply if the is a short circuit or other defects in the voltage multiplier or the rectifier stage.

As for the capacitor- even if the unit is turned off, the capacitor will hold a residual charge that can be dangerous. Shorting out the capacitor with an insulated screwdriver is a BAD idea- it can damage the capacitor or other components in the high-voltage circuit and mess up your screwdriver. If you insist on servicing the unt yourself, you should discharge the capacitor by placing a 500-ohm 25-watt wire-wound resistor across the terminals.

If the ready light comes on and there is no flash, there is an easy test. Try to fire the unit with the onboard open flash button and listen for a click-like sound near the tube, turn off the modelling light and observe the tube and see if the is a slight spark or glow when you attempt to trigger it. If with of those symptoms occur- it's the tube or the trigger circuit.

The simplest test is just to switch up the tubes and see if if fires with the other flash tube.

Gilkar

Thank you for your suggestions I will try them

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

You are very welcome.

I am currently repairing my oldest Photogenic Powerlight. As you can see it has 3 capacitors which may be very difficult to access and test without special jigs to hold them in place, etc. On this one, I just needed to replace the trigger coil.

So, good luck and perhaps you can let us know how things turned out.

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

🆒🆒🆒🆒🆒

Gilkar

Thank you Mr. Shaprio.
Using all of the suggestions everyone gave me I set up my lights to test them again. Lo and behold the unit is now working properly. I do not know if hiring that exorcist helped or not. All I know is: It wasn't working and all and now it is. I am quite careful with my equipment and naturally, I do have backups, but these photogenic 1250's are my 'go to' units. I pack them carefully after each job. I make sure they are cool before packing. I do not believe they have been jarred or roughly handled so a cannot understand what's going on. They are working now and I hope there won't be a reoccurance (HA).