WayneL Loc: Baltimore Md

Sirui makes nice tripods and heads at reasonable prices.

wiz302pa Loc: Henderson, NV

Great question.
I am also looking for something to use for my lighter-weight mirrorless gear.
Please let us know what your final decision is.

xt2 Loc: British Columbia, Canada

https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/buying-guides/best-tripod

Cheers!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

More than half of my wildlife and birds that I took with my 600mmF4 were done using an Arca Swiss z1 ball head. I had no issues using it - though I will admit it took a few sessions to develop a technique to get the best out if it, including getting a long dovetail rail to better balance the camera+lens, and adjusting the drag on the ball so that I could move it when needed but I could move it to a position and take my hands off without the camera drooping. It has a huge ball and a really wide sweet spot which makes it possible to use for wildlife. The rest is practice.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Not seeing any 600mm lenses in this article.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

A reasonably starter tripod will start around $500 and go up from there. The legs should be 1.25" in diameter or preferably greater. If you can afford it, getting carbon fiber legs with the least amount of sections will help to increased stability and reduced weight. If you are not a professional, and do not mind missing shots, you can find tripods starting around $200 and up. As Gene51 has indicated, buying two or three cheaper unsatisfying tripods may be more costly than "biting the bullet" and getting the one expensive tripod. Also, be aware that one of our members ran into a problem where the lens's extension (imbalance of the center of gravity not near the head of the tripod) exceeded the head's ability to hold the lens stable. So along with the tripod cost, be aware of the tripod head requirements too when you buy the head for the tripod.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Exactly the reason I moved away from using a tripod for most (98%) of my wildlife stuff. I did have an older 600F4 AF-S II - which weighed 5900g or 13 lbs, making it hard to use on anything other than a bean bag or nice sturdy tripod. I agree with you to a point - in that situation it was about rock-solid, vibration-free support - since it didn't have VR to handle the gross motor movements of hand holding. The simple high-frequency micro vibrations caused by shutter shock, mirror slap, etc required a really stable and rigid tripod to dampen those vibrations. So rigidity is important, and the reason why people who make a living from shooting wildlife would not waste their time trying to save a few pennies and getting some $40 - $200 tripod - none of which can hold a candle to the stuff they select. If one is willing to spend a lot of time hitting the delete key when reviewing images, then maybe there could be an argument for a Dolica or Vanguard or whatever. But that get's old fast.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Gil, everyone has their favorites. But few have a broad experience with a wide variety of brands, styles and other considerations. Stability is the single most important feature of a tripod - and if you find yourself needing to use one (long exposures for deliberate blurring - like flowing water, moving cars at night, etc), night sky - moonshots, milky way, star trails etc, macro photography, focus stacking, some HDR/Panorama and other "special" applications, then the tripod has to be up to the task. One tripod can do it all, but it must be selected for the most extreme situation if you want it to perform in that setting. The most demanding on stability has to be high magnification situations. Long lenses at close distances, macro photography both require a solid platform. The least demanding might be reportage, some landscapes/cityscapes/shoreline photography, where magnification is less significant and field of view is more so. If you were to select a tripod with the mindset - "well, it will be great for 75% of the shooting I do" then that is a conscious decision that will either leave you renting what you need for those more demanding situations, or missing out on those altogether, or resigning yourself to putting up with inadequate support because its what you have. The tradeoffs could be price (cheaper - more stability generally cost more), weight (less stable tripods are usually made of heavier metal), size/portability (more stable tripods are just plain bigger and huskier) and possibly other factors.

If you get the biggest most stable tripod possible, it could be the one and only tripod you will ever need - at least from a photographic point of view. While it will never fail to produce images with no hint of camera vibration, it will be heavier, bigger, more expensive than other tripods. But there is a limit to what you'd be able to do with a less costly tripod, and you will see that every time you try to do macro or long lens/high magnification work. In terms of weight, a lightweight tripod could weigh 2.1 lbs and still be good enough to shoot with up to a 200mm lens, or 1:2 magnification close ups, without experiencing too many images spoiled by blur stemming from tripod instability. a more heavy-duty one could weigh from 4 lbs and up, but would have few limitations on image magnification or lens focal length.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Hi Gil,

And welcome to UHH!

A mistake a lot of people make with tripods is not spending enough. A good quality tripod can last a lifetime. One of mine is 40 years old, but I got older and heavier than I liked to carry in the field. So 20 years ago I got another that weighs about half as much, still does great holding any camera or lens I wish and I leave the heavy one "in studio".... though I don't currently have a studio so it's actually in storage.

You didn't mention a budget, but that did tell us what you want to put on it and that you primarily want to use it out in the field shooting wildlife. Based on that I can make some general recommendations and leave it to you to decide what you're comfortable spending.

Your camera and lens probably weigh about 7 or 8 lb. I'd recommend a tripod and head rated to support about 3X that weight, at a minimum. (Weight ratings aren't ideal as a means of judging stability... But that's the info we usually have for comparison purposes.)

Next I would recommend light weight... but not too light. Carbon fiber typically costs more, but saves weight. It's also durable and absorbs fine vibrations better than metal.

Look for a tripod that has as few leg sections as possible. Three sections is about as few as is practical for most people, but I wouldn't recommend more than four section legs. More than that and the lowest sections get really slim to fit inside the section above, plus there are those additional joints that might flex.

A tripod that's tall enough for you without any center column would be ideal. However, most have a center column. Look for one that's tall enough without having to raise the center column much or at all. Measure your eyeline and add an inch or two to figure out how tall a tripod you need to be comfortable using it (the camera itself sitting atop the tripod will add a couple more inches). It ain't much fun shooting with a tripod you always have to bend over tor use! Finally, when shopping do a lot of research about the actual height of the tripods you're considering. Some only give a height with the center column fully extended (again, that's not good). Look for info about the height "without column extended", as shown on some sites.

Look for a "kit" that best meets your needs, if at all possible. It's possible to buy just the legs and then fit your choice of head... but that is typically more expensive. Hopefully you can save a little with a kit that does all you need. Another possible advantage... the height of a kit will probably be measured to the platform of the head, accounting for both the legs and the head. When bought separately, you need to try to figure out the total height yourself, based upon the dimensions of the separate parts.

There are a variety of types of tripods, as well as "special features" offered. For example, "travel" tripods emphasize lighter weight and are designed to fold up as compact as possible. Many of them have legs that fold in reverse, back over the head. Because of this they usually only use ballheads and are limited the size of head that can be fitted. A different type of head or too large a ballhead will prevent the legs from reverse folding, as intended. Some travel tripods also have lots of leg sections (see above) or extra long center columns that may make them slower to set up and less stable. I'm also a bit skeptical about some features such as center columns that rotate to the horizontal or beyond or legs that can be removed to make a monopod. Do those "features" make the tripod less stable or create a potential failure point? Are they really necessary? Some tripods can go really low without rotating the center column to horizontal. Any tripod that's not too heavy can be used like a monopod, simply by not spreading the legs and only extending one of them.

Choose what type head you want. At least initially I would recommend a ballhead for most people hiking around looking for wildlife to photograph. Ballheads typically have the best weight to strength ratio, plus don't have protruding handles that might catch on branches or whatever, and allow the rig to be the most compact. Working with a large telephoto lens like a 150-600mm and shooting active wildlife, you might want a gimbal head. But that's something you can add later (see below).

Gimbal heads are quite popular with sports and wildlife photographers. They can be set "loose" for either tilt or panning axis, or both, to allow you to follow moving subjects smoothly. In addition, set up correctly they make manipulating larger, heavier telephotos fairly easy. With proper equilibrium I can swing around 15 lb. of lens, camera, flash and accessories with one finger. There are a couple different types of gimbal heads: full size that replace any other head on the tripod (making it "large telephoto only") or gimbal "adapters" that work in conjunction with a ballhead on the tripod. I use both types personally. I use the tripod with a ballhead and a gimbal adapter most often because that tripod can also serve with shorter lenses when needed, without need to swap the heads. My other tripod with the full size gimbal head is dedicated for use only with large telephotos that have a built in tripod mounting collar. There is no way to comfortably use a camera with a shorter lens on it, unless I remove the gimbal and install a different head... which is a pain, means carrying around both heads and possibly tools to make the swap.

There are various types of leg locking mechanisms, too. On a tripod I'll be carrying around in the field I prefer the twist type because they're low profile to reduce chance of catching or a branch or a sleeve, self-adjusting for wear and somewhat resistant getting dirt and water inside (some even have seals). Twist type may not be quite as quick to set up as lever type, but the levers protrude to catch on branches and such, are prone to wear over time and may need adjustment or fail. Also dirt might get in them and effect their function (granted, in worst case situation dirt can get into some of the twist type, too). Third type of locks are thumb screws. They are reliable and don't have wear issues, but protrude and are the slowest type to set up.

Twist type leg logs are only used with tubular legs. When they are plain round tubes, one section might rotate while you are trying to tighten another. You need to learn to work from the largest diameter to the smallest when loosening or tightening them. But many newer tripods have some sort of anti-rotation design to prevent this and make it even easier to use the twist type locks. It's something to look for when you're comparing tripods.

Levers and thumbscrews are used on tubular legs too, but also are sometimes used on legs with a different shape in cross section... rectangular, for example. However, these are typically only found in the cheapest and flimsiest tripods, which you'd be wise to avoid. They simply don't work very well, aren't much fun to use and usually fail in relatively short time.

An option you'll see on all types of tripod heads are quick release (QR) systems. Unless you are using a gimbal, you don't need to use these. All cameras and lenses have a 1/4" socket that fits the same size screw on virtually all tripod heads. However, if you use a gimbal head or adapter a QR system is essential and nearly all of those use one particular type (more about that below). All QR systems require plates fitted to the bottom of your lens(es) and camera that lock into a platform on top of the tripod head. By far the most common and universal of these is the Arca-Swiss system, which is used by many different manufacturers and is very largely interchangeable across brands. There are others that are "proprietary"... exclusive, patented designs used by particular brands. One of the most popular brands... Manfrotto... uses not one, but three different QR systems (which aren't even compatible with each other). At least the proprietary QR Manfrotto uses are common enough that parts are usually available. That's not the case with some other brands. They can be difficult to get additional plates or replacement parts if needed.

I fully switched to the Arca system around 20 years ago when I started using gimbals, since they pretty much require it. The gimbal adapter I use and all the ones I'm aware of only work with a tripod head fitted with an Arca style platform. Nearly all full size gimbals also use it, because the design allows some adjustments that are needed for best equilibrium with big, heavy gear. If I had known up front and bought into the Arca system from the start, it would have saved me quite a bit of $ wasted on other systems and later having to buy converters or replacement parts. There are dozens of manufacturers making components for the Arca QR system. These include specialized parts such as fitted camera and lens plates. In fact, some lens makers and even one or two camera makers are incorporating an Arca compatible dovetail into their gear, so that additional parts aren't even needed. For example, there are camera plates specifically made to fit your Z9II. These have an anti-twist feature that's important (a feature many "generic" plates lack). If your 150-600mm is a Tamron G2 it will have an Arca dovetail built right into the foot of the tripod mounting ring. A recent Sigma lens might have this, too.

A popular accessory if using the Arca system is an L-bracket to fit the camera (instead of a camera plate). An L-bracket provides two ways of attaching the camera to the head, when not using a long lens with a built-in tripod mounting ring. A camera plate is more compact and fitted to the bottom of the camera will work fine on any type of head with a compatible platform when the camera is in the horizontal/landscape orientation. While the vast majority of tripod heads can be rotated to orient the camera to the vertical/portrait orientation, particularly with ballheads this puts the weight off to one side and that can be less than ideal. The L-bracket makes for more stability by keeping the camera directly above the head in either orientation. No need to "flop" the head off to one side (and possibly have the tripod, camera, lens and all fall over to one side!) An L-bracket does add cost and bulk to the camera. L-brackets also pretty much need to be a custom design fitted to each camera model, so that all the controls, sockets, battery and memory card compartments, etc. can easily be accessed. An L-bracket can be added later, if wanted.

With both camera plates and L-brackets, if you use a battery grip on your camera it will usually us a different one than if it doesn't have a grip installed. So be careful to get the correct one for however your camera is set up.

A few other things may be nice to have, but also can be added later if necessary. For example, you might want a bag with a strap to carry, protect and store the tripod. Some kits include that, but if not they are also available to buy separately. Another handy thing is padding on at least one of the legs, to be more comfortable carrying the tripod over your shoulder. Some tripods have that padding, but it's also possible to add if the tripod you select doesn't. Another thing that can be helpful with a gimbal head is a leveling platform that fits between the head and the tripod legs. Those are only sold separately and add about 1 lb. of weight, but also add in inch or two of height and can make setups faster when using a gimbal. Gimbals work best when things are reasonably level, which can be achieved by adjusting the leg lengths individually. A leveling platform just speeds up the process (and possibly makes it safer for your gear), but it can add up because re-leveling might be necessary every time you move the tripod on uneven ground.

The big online photography stores such as Adorama and B&H Photo have a lot of info and tools that can be helpful when shopping for a tripod. For example, I did a quick search at the B&H website for a tripod w/ballhead rated for 22 to 44 lb., with carbon fiber legs, twist type legs locks and Arca-Swiss QR compatibility. B&H lists over 1000 tripods, but this search criteria quickly reduces the number to 68. You might be able to reduce this even further, for example there are just 9 of those tripods that don't have a center column. You also can limit by price, the current range is pretty wide: $136 to $1550. (I might be suspicious of the least expensive!) Also study or filter for the number of leg sections and height. If there are still several to choose, I'd lean toward the one with the heaviest rating and the most well known, long-established brand.

Here's a link to the search I did at B&H: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Complete-Tripods-with-Heads/ci/2635/N/4075788742?sort=PRICE_LOW_TO_HIGH&filters=fct_head-type_4106%3Aball-head%2Cfct_leg-lock-type_4128%3Atwist-lock%2Cfct_material_774%3Acarbon-fiber%2Cfct_quick-release-system_7375%3Aarca%2Cfct_support-weight_4142%3A22-lb%7C24-lb%7C25-lb%7C26-lb%7C27-lb%7C28-lb%7C30-lb%7C31-lb%7C33-lb%7C34-lb%7C35-lb%7C39-lb%7C40-lb%7C44-lb

Finally, try to buy from a store that allows easy returns, just in case you make a mistake and find yourself with a tripod that doesn't meet all your expectations.

Have fun shopping!

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

If you are doing birds in trees, airshows, shooting in mountainous or uneven terrain, or astro-photography, you will appreciate a tripod height that goes OVER your head ......
.

ky4lcattwcdotcom Loc: Madisonville, KY

I like to use the Slik U212 Deluxe, it is only a little over 5 pounds, it is fully adjustable, it will safely hold a 5 pound camera, I have used it with a heavy 500 mm lens with no problems. My other tri-pod is the Manfrotto Bogen 3046, but at 13 pounds I wouldn't want to carry it around all day. But it will handle a 12 pound camera. I have had the Slik for over 20 years and it still is in great shape.

Alps1962 Loc: Fraser michigan

Alan
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my question. There is so much more to think about getting a tripod that I never could imagine. Now I am so glad that I asked for opinions on this site. All the information that you provided is so key on the right tripod for what I would like to do. Like the getting one to support the proper capabilities to handle my setup. Again thank you for all the information that you provided. I'm glad that your in this forum and took the time to show me a way to go. I really appreciate it
Gil

nealbralley Loc: Kansas

While I use a Sirui tripod, I would say this: just ensure you have solid tripod from a reputable manufacturer. Like many other products within the world of photography, there are many to choose from, and some of the products are junk. You will generally get what you pay for. Ensure you buy a tripod having a good solid head upon which to mount your lens or camera. Ensure that the tripod can support the weight of both the lens and camera.

I would also add a cautionary statement: when you move your camera and tripod in the field or anywhere else for that matter, ensure you have the camera's strap around your neck, so that when your camera separates from the tripod, the camera and lens don't fall to the ground. More than a few expensive rigs have "bought the farm" in that manner! It happens; it happens a lot!

Alps1962 Loc: Fraser michigan

Great suggestion and I will keep it in mind
Thanks

madpaddler Loc: Near Seattle, Washington

Because you are shooting wildlife with a 150-600mm lens your next question needs to be; What head do I put on this new shinny tripod? You will find that a ball head on that lens is not the best combination. You might want to look at a gimbal head for that lens. Here is a link to some options.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gimbal+head+for+wildlife+photography&crid=LA7KJUB8YRX3&sprefix=gimbal+haed%2Caps%2C172&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_6_11

And yes, I own both a ball head and a gimbal and switch back and forth depending on the lens combination I am using.

Good Luck!