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Macros of flowers
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Aug 21, 2021 18:20:25   #
Guzser02
 
DawnM wrote:
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the wind when I'm too close to use auto focus on my Canon RP. I typically use the EF 100mm macro lens. I'm too blind for diopter adjustments to do me any good, so I rely on focus peaking to get the job done, yet often I miss focus on these because even a slight breeze will cause the flower to move.

I absolutely love this shot except that I was aiming for the center of the flower and it caught the edge of the center, not the center. I'm going to run it through Topaz, but I realize even Topaz can't perform miracles, so I have little hope of saving the shot.

What's the solution for this?
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the... (show quote)


Compositionally speaking this is a great shot. But I see what you mean.
You have Four options at your disposal:
1-You mentioned, PP Topaz Sharpen AI.
2-PP Focus stacking.
3-Burst shooting.
4-Macro Flash.
If none of the above are possible, I suggest you shoot at about 300 ISO (because the DOF is quite shallow) which will afford you a faster Shutter speed with a Macro lens.

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Aug 21, 2021 18:26:34   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
Guzser02 wrote:
Compositionally speaking this is a great shot. But I see what you mean.
You have Four options at your disposal:
1-You mentioned, PP Topaz Sharpen AI.
2-PP Focus stacking.
3-Burst shooting.
4-Macro Flash.
If none of the above are possible, I suggest you shoot at about 300 ISO (because the DOF is quite shallow) which will afford you a faster Shutter speed with a Macro lens.


You missed the fifth option which I posted earlier.

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Aug 21, 2021 20:33:32   #
Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis
 
abc1234 wrote:
You missed the fifth option which I posted earlier.


Let's see some examples of your work so we can see how it's done.

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Aug 22, 2021 01:12:26   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
DawnM wrote:
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the wind when I'm too close to use auto focus on my Canon RP. I typically use the EF 100mm macro lens. I'm too blind for diopter adjustments to do me any good, so I rely on focus peaking to get the job done, yet often I miss focus on these because even a slight breeze will cause the flower to move.

I absolutely love this shot except that I was aiming for the center of the flower and it caught the edge of the center, not the center. I'm going to run it through Topaz, but I realize even Topaz can't perform miracles, so I have little hope of saving the shot.

What's the solution for this?
I'm having a hard time with flowers blowing in the... (show quote)


Wait for a still day or a still time of day.

Or take some sort of screen to block the wind.

I don't know if they still make them, but there used to be a device called a "plamp" that attaches to a tripod (or something else) and holds a plant from moving in slight breezes.

What f-stop are you using? If you stop down for more depth of field, that will also be forgiving of some minor focus error. But there's a limit to how small you should use, due to diffraction. On a full frame camera, f/11 is pretty safe and you might get away with f/16... but f/22 or smaller is likely to cost a lot of fine detail lost to diffraction.

I agree about burst shooting... often if you shoot a short burst of 3 to 5 images, at least one of them will have the focus you want.

I don't agree about focus stacking. That's next to impossible when things are moving in the breeze (it also means a more complex setup, such as a focusing rail).

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Aug 22, 2021 04:57:50   #
Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Wait for a still day or a still time of day.

Or take some sort of screen to block the wind.

I don't know if they still make them, but there used to be a device called a "plamp" that attaches to a tripod (or something else) and holds a plant from moving in slight breezes.

What f-stop are you using? If you stop down for more depth of field, that will also be forgiving of some minor focus error. But there's a limit to how small you should use, due to diffraction. On a full frame camera, f/11 is pretty safe and you might get away with f/16... but f/22 or smaller is likely to cost a lot of fine detail lost to diffraction.

I agree about burst shooting... often if you shoot a short burst of 3 to 5 images, at least one of them will have the focus you want.

I don't agree about focus stacking. That's next to impossible when things are moving in the breeze (it also means a more complex setup, such as a focusing rail).
Wait for a still day or a still time of day. br b... (show quote)


You are right about focus stacking a moving subject, but you don't need a focus rail for some subjects , for say 2-6 images you just take your closest to the lens shot and then change the focus to a little farther back until you have an image for each part of the subject , now a focusing rail does make it a lot easier.

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Nov 8, 2021 22:15:18   #
DawnM Loc: Arkansas
 
I love that lens. When I first got it I thought I wouldn’t because I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to hold it steady.

We live on a mountain ridge and the wind is blowing almost constantly. I used to have a Rebel T6 with the EF-S 35mm that I was learning on and as I recall I actually had a ring light. I had forgotten it! I’m sure it’s in a drawer somewhere. I am going to dig it out and see if I have the adapter for this lens… maybe solve my problem. Help with the lack of IBIS on my RP, too.

Thanks!

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Nov 8, 2021 22:18:43   #
DawnM Loc: Arkansas
 
Really too close for the RP to autofocus, and as much as I like my RP the autofocus system isn’t the best. It just keeps seeking. Nothing like it’s big brothers, R5 & R6.

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