Focus on the eye of the animal: This has been stated many times. I just wonder how you do this. bbf and recompose? spot focus? use a multi focus area? I seem to always have the subject...

philo Loc: philo, ca

This has been stated many times.
I just wonder how you do this.
bbf and recompose? spot focus? use a multi focus area?
I seem to always have the subject in the center of the shot.
also what you change if the subject is still or moving?

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

Steve Perry is a good resource for all things wildlife photography and he put out a youtube video on the topic of taking sharper wildlife photos including AF settings. What you are looking for is #3, about 2 minutes 8 seconds in to the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLe6mXjFRdA

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

philo wrote:

This has been stated many times.
I just wonder how you do this.
bbf and recompose?

Yeah, I've tried that. When a bird is 200' away and flying at 30 MPH, it's hard to get its closest eye in focus. I occasionally settle for the farther eye, but I always feel like a fraud.

Bill_de Loc: US

jerryc41 wrote:

Yeah, I've tried that. When a bird is 200' away and flying at 30 MPH, it's hard to get its closest eye in focus. I occasionally settle for the farther eye, but I always feel like a fraud.

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MDI Mainer

Not a problem if you're shooting a state-of-the-art Sony with bird eye autofocus.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Here is Steve Perry's website:
https://backcountrygallery.com/

Besides the video recommended by Strodav, check Steve's information for when to use auto ISO.

For composition, I'd say get the center shot first if there may be a chance your subject is about to leave the scene. Then deal with composing differently if there's time. You'll see from Steve's photos and videos, he often includes the surroundings and interesting action.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

jerryc41 wrote:

Yeah, I've tried that. When a bird is 200' away and flying at 30 MPH, it's hard to get its closest eye in focus. I occasionally settle for the farther eye, but I always feel like a fraud.

I can see why you feel like a fraud.

If you're shooting a bird travelling across your field of view, only one eye is visible.
If you're shooting a bird travelling directly toward you, both eyes are at the same distance.

So you can’t focus on the farther eye.

Bill_de Loc: US

DirtFarmer wrote:

I can see why you feel like a fraud.

If you're shooting a bird travelling across your field of view, only one eye is visible.
If you're shooting a bird travelling directly toward you, both eyes are at the same distance.

So you can’t focus on the farther eye.

I think you may take some things too seriously.

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DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I have been accused of not being serious enough on occasion.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

philo wrote:

This has been stated many times.
I just wonder how you do this.
bbf and recompose? spot focus? use a multi focus area?
I seem to always have the subject in the center of the shot.
also what you change if the subject is still or moving?

I use Nikon's focusing system, GROUP AUTO FOCUS, I keep the four dots in the middle of the viewfinder. As long as you keep the subject in the middle of the four dots, the EYES will be in focus. Easy peasee.
Continuous Auto Focus, Aperture Priority, fast shutter speed, don't stop moving the camera when you press the shutter.

tcthome Loc: NJ

billnikon wrote:

I use Nikon's focusing system, GROUP AUTO FOCUS, I keep the four dots in the middle of the viewfinder. As long as you keep the subject in the middle of the four dots, the EYES will be in focus. Easy peasee.
Continuous Auto Focus, Aperture Priority, fast shutter speed, don't stop moving the camera when you press the shutter.

I'll give it a try.

tomad Loc: North Carolina

philo wrote:

This has been stated many times.
I just wonder how you do this.
bbf and recompose? spot focus? use a multi focus area?
I seem to always have the subject in the center of the shot.
also what you change if the subject is still or moving?

Or you can just get any of the later Sony cameras that have a setting for animal eye focus...

Amaize

With Nikon D850, my setting is AF-C - continuous autofocus. I use back button focus with joystick set at single point and AF-ON button “adjustable.” In AF-C, when you have thumb on AF-ON it continually focuses, but as soon as thumb is off, the focus is fixed (like AF-S). So for still subjects I may use joystick single point or AF-ON to nail the eye. Typically I have that set at Dynamic point 9. If I’m anticipating a bird shot, I may move up to higher (broader) focus area — cranes/herons a little more friendly to pan vs some of the quicker ones. As per Perry — I believe — Group AF focuses on closest object, so for bird in flight it may grab the wing and leave the eye behind. Using Dynamic area, it will tend to follow what initially got caught in focus — and if your panning keeps up, it will hold on the initial point of focus — hopefully the eyes. And there is the setting for Focus Tracking which will “ignore” an interfering object which might come in view — or switch more quickly to a new point of focus, depending on your setting.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

tomad wrote:

Or you can just get any of the later Sony cameras that have a setting for animal eye focus...

Sony animal eye focus is not accurate at a distance, the subject has to be closer before Sony eye focus kicks in. don't get me wrong, Sony animal eye focus is great when it works, and at a distance it does not function.
So, at a distance, your better off with the Sony ZONE focusing system.

philo Loc: philo, ca

Linda From Maine wrote:

Here is Steve Perry's website:
https://backcountrygallery.com/

Besides the video recommended by Strodav, check Steve's information for when to use auto ISO.

For composition, I'd say get the center shot first if there may be a chance your subject is about to leave the scene. Then deal with composing differently if there's time. You'll see from Steve's photos and videos, he often includes the surroundings and interesting action.

good point. get what you can before it leaves, and with time permitting go for more.