controversy Loc: Wuhan, China

Woke up the other day and decided that it's time for me to stop shooting raw/post-processing and learn how to get it right in the camera and shoot only jpg.

After trying Straight out of the Camera (SOOC) on a street photography outing and having less than spectacular results it became clear that I needed to reach out to the SOOC jpg experts on UHH for assistance and instruction.

The biggest problem was getting the camera settings correct for the picture/scene quickly before the subject moved and the moment was gone. I'm not talking about simply setting the exposure - for me that's the same exercise whether shooting raw or jpg.

What gave me trouble was the time it took to think about and change/adjust all the other settings in the camera - the settings that control the raw image post-processing inside the camera that produces the jpg file.

When shooting jpg, my Nikon requires me to choose a lot of raw processing controls that will produce the output jpg file. For example, the camera requires selecting a Picture Control -- the options include Standard, Neutral, Vivid, Monochrome, Portrait, and Landscape. And under each of those settings there are even more detailed settings for Sharpening, Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Hue, Filter effects, and Toning. Oh, and white balance changed as I moved up/down the street and in/out shadows and sunlight.

It was difficult to view a scene, think about all the internal image processing settings, decide how to set them, and get everything adjusted for that "get it right in camera" experience. And it was impossible to know if I got it right by judging it in the tiny view screen on the camera - particularly in direct sunlight.

(On a side note, I learned that if shooting raw, the free Nikon Studio software allows me to apply any of these same exact in-camera settings. including white balance, to the raw file after it is saved/downloaded to my computer -- in other words, I could create many different jpg versions from a single raw image capture using the exact equivalents of the in-camera settings -- just as if I had cycled through the camera settings and clicked the shutter for each settings change I made. Wondered why wouldn't I just shoot raw and then use Nikon Studio to choose a variety of different camera settings to create many different jpgs from that one raw file to get it right rather than be stuck with a single jpg image processed with a single set of in-camera selections that might have been less than optimal or just wrong? Is there a difference in choosing selections in the camera versus choosing exactly those same selections and image processing with Nikon Studio software on a computer? The Nikon Studio uses names, terms, and settings that exactly mirror those in the camera -- plus, the camera firmware and the destop software are both developed by Nikon so, if fact, aren't both options actually producing SOOC images?)

Afterward, when viewing the jpg image on a corrected monitor, it was clear that my internal camera settings choices were never optimal for creating that "perfect" SOOC jpg. Every single image variously displayed some characteristic(s) that was sub-optimal and did not represent what my eye saw at the scene. Things like poor contrast, incorrect white balance, incorrect white and black levels, too much/too little sharpness, poor dynamic range and so on were sprinkled through the images.

So here're my questions: do you have a jpg shooting workflow you will share with me? Since you only have one chance to get it right, what are your thought processes when you look at a scene that lead you to the detailed in-camera raw processing selections you choose and how do you determine in the field that you got it right? When capturing an image do you cycle through a number of in-camera image process settings and make multiple jpgs for the same scene in order "bracket" your internal image processing options to make sure one of them is likely right? Do you have a single set of "perfect settings" that you use for every/all the photographs you take? Do you utilize "scene" settings in your camera - things like Sports, Close up, Night Portrait, Candlelight, Autumn Colors and so forth? Do you return to the location and re-shoot the image if mistakes were made in your original camera settings choices?

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise.

Quixdraw Loc: x

Checking your past posts, I'd guess you really aren't asking for help. Seems simple. Set the camera to any one of myriad combinations of settings, frame, focus, hold steady and shoot. Download, cull as needed, post, print, share, etc.. Good luck to you in your quest!

BebuLamar

Are you trying to get a head of the class?
Read this post
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-703651-1.html

les spencer

My favorite setting.....AUTO...:)

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

I don't think any particular setting(s) will accommodate all possible situations, maybe most at best, but not all.
Hopefully someone might be able to propose settings that would work for most situations.
(That's why they make editors, for tweaking.)

JohnR Loc: The Gates of Hell

You can still post process jpgs maybe to a slightly more limited extent than raw but post process just the same. Many shoot using the P (or Program) mode setting a minimum shutter speed and a maximum ISO. After a few shots you can then adjust EV + or - to achieve the exposure you like best. This mode is best for general photography - people, places and things. For action use the S (shutter speed) mode. Set this to the speed you need to freeze the action and leave aperture and ISO to the camera. Again + or - EV to get correct exposure. If you're looking for depth of field use A (Aperture) mode setting your chosen aperture and leaving the rest to the camera. M or Manual mode needs you to understand the exposure triangle so maybe not needed for quite a while if ever. Using your camera like this set to jpg Fine minimises the amount of post processing you have to do.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

That's why they made that. Comes in handy.

jscorbin Loc: Woodinville, WA

If your camera has two memory cards, shoot RAW + JPEG. Store the RAW on one card and the JPEG on the other. Or, get a 128GB card and store both on the same card. Then you can experiment, and have a fall-back to use the RAW when needed.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

The problem here is the "proper settings" approach. To me, the proper settings provide me the ideal exposure to accomplish the final "print" that I envisioned. Thus, my initial image may look completely unusable. However, knowing the equipment capabilities coupled with the processing gives me a huge headstart on producing very suitable "prints". I'll provide examples if you'd like.

Another approach is to set your camera up prior to taking photographs. Unless the light is changing drastically over short periods of time, setting an exposure and then looking for your subjects works quite well. The light isn't going to change that much over a period of time. It's not that difficult.

In fact, it's probably less difficult than trying to accomplish that perfect SOOC jpg.
--Bob

BebuLamar

I think the OP didn't want an answer. He wanted to say SOOC is not practically possible. I think he meant that if you set your camera to the right picture settings, the right contrast, the right color balance and the right exposure you would get good SOOC but it's not possible to do so as it takes too much time. Things like color balance, contrast, saturation requires you scroll thru the menu. So really he didn't want answers.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

You are quite possibly correct. However, he did put a lot of time into writing that composition to not expect some kind of reply.
--Bob

BebuLamar

Oh yeah should I say he had the answer before asking the question. His answer is don't do SOOC.

srt101fan

Seems like you are trying to assess, decide and set the Picture Controls for each picture. IMHO, that is misusing the camera and the Picture Control feature, especially if your doing this with changeable subjects.

Start with the Nikon default settings for the Picture Controls and change them to suit your general preferences. Some people like more vividness and color saturation. Some will say that the default sharpness setting is too low. And so on.

When you're happy with your personalized "default" Picture Control settings, set the mode dial to "M", turn on Auto ISO, keep an eye on the need for Exposure Compensation, and fire away....

(Yes, BebuLamar, these are suggestions!)

JD750 Loc: SoCal

I shoot jpeg format a lot and the time saved is considerable over a raw workflow.

But with a jpeg workflow, time is still needed for reviewing and sometimes touch up, and for creating images for sharing.

If you can do it, taking more time up front, thinking about the shot, setting up and, carefully checking the frame are all helpful. If an action shot then set up and focus ahead of time. Shoot from different angles and perspectives.
These things can improve your % of keepers.

Scene settings can be a good teaching tool. I recommend you study them and understand what is different and “why” those things are different.

I have a default set of settings I start from and I put the camera back on those settings when done with a scene.

I will return to a scene and reshoot if I don’t like the results. Or if I’m doing a project over time.

Hope that helps.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Hmmmmm.

Something to do with his user name?