Back in 2019 , I received a Godox Transmitter and receiver. I was under the impression that was all you needed to shoot with in order to set up flashes in and around a picture that I was taking. Well 2020 was a bust for doing this type of Photography, so I just put it on my back burning list. I had no idea that I was so far wrong in my understanding of the process. I shoot with Nikon and I went out and picked up several Nikon flash units. Ok no big deal make my camera the commander and place the flashes - so they can read the command from my camera and they all flash as directed. But I go to set up the Godox system, but I did not know that I need a receiver for each flash - I thought it worked like a command from the receiver to all flash units. So here is my question, Do I buy receivers for every flash , or, sell my Nikon Flash units and go with Godox flash units that already talk to the transmitter that I have? What would be your thought on this matter or am I still 'off base on my thinking". Thank You all for your thoughts. Douglas Sparks
Loc: Raleigh, NC
Remote flashes can be triggered optically or via radio. If the Nikon flashes can be triggered optically, you can use the radio trigger for one and it’s flash can trigger the others, but there are limitations to this method. Each of the remote flashes must be able to “see” the master flash and other lights may trigger them. In addition to overcoming those limitations, radio systems can control other parameters of each flash such as flash duration/intensity without having to go to each flash and set them, and some systems allow 2-way communication between the commander and the receivers. For all those reasons, buying a receiver for each flash is a good idea which will give you more flexibility in the future at a pretty reasonable cost. There are MANY pros online here that can provide more (and probably better) advice but those are my thoughts. I’m using a radio triggered system and really feel it’s worth the investment. As to whether you add receivers to the Nikon’s or sell them and buy Godoxes, that’s your call, but one caveat - you can’t typically mix transmitters and relievers from different manufacturers. If you’re using a Godox transmitter, use either Godox receivers hooked to your Nikon flashes or buy Godox flashes.
Loc: Hiding In Connecticut
dougbev3 Nikon's speedlight documentation is stellar... Third party maybe not so much...
At the end of the day you need to master the complexities of the user interface on whatever system you go with...
I've been using Phottix Oden radio triggers off camera outdoors for over 5 years and a Nikon SU800 indoors.
btw, there is so much more to deploying off camera flash than just the transmitter/receivers.
Please take your time and enjoy the journey... Be aware it can take considerable time to become one with off camera flash illumination... not as simple as studio lighting scenarios...
Below is what Phottix Oden transmitters and receivers can accomplish with a Nikon kit.
Lens: AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 IF ED VR2
High Speed Sync (HSS) at 1/2500 f/3.5
Phottix Oden transmitter/receivers
Hope this helps dougbev3...
All the best on your journey
Illumination: Four SB-910's through a 72 inch parabolic (Phottix Oden radio transmitter/receivers)
dougbev3 Nikon's speedlight documentation is stel... (
I agree with the Oden transmitter/receivers. They are a wonderful value and work very well. I would not be willing to give up my name brand flash, for a cheaper brand. But I'm a Canon girl. 😊
IMHO..Buy receivers, they're comparatvely inexpensive.. I have Yongnuo 2.4 GHZ sender and 2 receivers for my Nikon D500. The newer Yongnuo flashes have the receiver built into the flash!! I'm sure Godox will have separate receivers available at a nominal cost!
A receiver for each flash would seem the most cost effective.
Back in 2019, I received a Godox Transmitter and r... (
You do not mention what "this kind of photography" is. If you explain your setup as to the type of shooting- portraits, sports, large interior areas. sports action, theatrical, whatever and the average distance between the camera and the remote light, as well as whether to no you are using the TTL system or setting your exposure manually. I can make more specific suggestions, alternatives, or equipment choices.
I have been using multip electronic flas light since 1958 with all manner of slave triggers systems- optical, radio IR and hard wire.
Nowadays there are many radio-based systems in a wide variety of price points. There are simp systems that are relatively inexpensive, more sophisticated choices that are more costly and heavy-duty professional models that are more durable and will work over a greater distance.
I trigger a system that works on radio frequencies, there is no standardization among different brands. The FCC assigned cert portions of the radio spectrum to remote control devices but within that range, there are specific frequencies. Camer command system needs to be matched with compatible flash units. A transmitter that attached to the camera's hot shoe needs specific receivers. Third-party units are specified for certain equipment.
Optical slave triggers are a different breed. Some manufacturers include a photoelectric cell in their speedlights and monolights. An accessory photoelectric cell can be attached to most flash equipment that does not have this built-in feature. The cells respond to the flash from the on-camer or wired in flas unit and trigger remote units virtually simultaneously. Unlike radio triggers, they need to be in closer proximity to the on-camera or wired-in lighting in more or less line of sight and some more sensitive cells will respond to bounce light in a smaller area.
Optical slaves are not selective- if other photographers are working with flash at an event, their flash light will trigger your slaves.
Godox flash have two frequencies built in. The 433mhz (same as Nikon flash) and 2.5 ghz (Not Nikon) and can be used like Nikons flash.
If you have Nikon built in flash ( works as remote trigger) I would use this first before updating any flash and gain experience. From brackets, modifier and how much output you need I learned that is easy to buy the wrong gear. I have the AD600 what is good but way to heavy to carry around.....and certain times they have incredible sales
I shoot portraits (Nikon) exclusively using Pocket Wizard triggers on each of my studio (Einstein) lights and Odin triggers on Speedlights when outdoors. I recently purchased a Geeokto 12v light for outdoors which has an internal trigger for Nikon. But regardless, keep in mind whether you want your lights to have iTTL capability which I use a lot especially in dappled lighting. If you do want iTTL capability, be very careful with matching after-market triggers and lights, and be sure the triggers are Nikon compatible (most "universal" triggers will not work with iTTL). I still love my Nikon Speedlights which have never let me down. Check out Thomas' outstanding image. His work is always top of the line.
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