JonathanChemE

I have a T7i. I shoot for birds with an effective focal length as high as 672mm and shutter speeds of at least 1/800. The images come out crisp when I get them but I have trouble keeping on target holding the lens. I use back button focusing to once I can lock focus that is not a problem as long as the bird does not move but sometimes the composition is off. So my question is does the IBIS show up in the viewfinder when composing or does it just kick in when the shutter is pressed? Would an R5 or R6 help?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You've provided a lot of details, but not some of the important ones. Like, what lens specifically? And, what AF area are you using? Do you have the IS active so your viewfinder is stabilized as you move the camera to pan with a moving subject? Finally, you mention BBF, but are you also in AI Servo and are you holding the BBF for as long as your camera in a shooting position?

The mirrorless cameras have different AF tracking technology. But, you should seek to maximize your current camera. On a small subject at a great distance, simply keeping the subject within the frame is a challenge. If you can't keep the subject within the frame, it doesn't matter what camera you have or AF system it uses.

For a moving subject, consider using the Zone or Large Zone AF. If you can get the subject within these AF zones, the camera will typically grab focus. The Automatic select is good for a single subject against a rather clear background, like a bird against a clear sky. But, a cluttered background is more difficult where the Zone / Large Zone let you tell the camera where to limit the selection.

Your EOS T7i is the most advanced Rebel body ever. The camera is much closer to more advanced models than even before. Begin by reviewing and updating your AF usage, if applicable. Let's discuss lenses too to confirm the lens is appropriate to your wildlife needs.

JonathanChemE

I am using a Canon 70-300 IS lens with a 1.4x teleconverter. I do use AI servo and point focus. I tried using a small zone but with small subjects sometimes it tries to grab a background or if the bird is in a tree a nearby Branch. I normally set a TV of 1/800 which normally pushes the aperture wide open and the auto ISO 400-1600. But like I said that when I am able to compose an image it is in focus and crisp. It is not so much the bird moving (they are usually perched when I shoot) as much as not holding the camera steady to keep the subject in the frame properly. Even the poorly composed images are crisp and in focus, just sometimes missing a head or tail. I don't do much bird in flight.

JonathanChemE

Here is one I took a few days ago. I took those inside looking through a window. I was siting about 3 yards from the window and they are sitting about two yards on the other side of the window. Even at that distance I have to be careful to not spook them

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CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

A Canon extender is not compatible with any of Canon's 70-300 lenses. Your T7i is limited to AF for an f/8 configuration. You've worked around this f/8 limitation with a third-tool. Your two examples show excellent closeness. You'd get much better results removing the extender and just cropping the results. Or, consider a longer lens, something that reaches to 400mm or longer. That f/8 and non Canon equipment also impacts the responsiveness of the AF system. Even brand-defining cameras like the EOS 5DIII lose some of their edge when presented with a lens configuration that has a max effective aperture of f/8. The cameras need AI Servo and have the AF constantly engaged rather than stopping and starting in the lower f/8 light.

Additionally, you should seek the slowest shutter possible. For a static subject with an IS-enabled lens, this could be in the 1/250 to 1/400 range, with the goal being to use a sharper and smaller aperture or a lower ISO, or both.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Both those images seem to be backlighted which means that you are having to push exposure, if the lighting were more optimal (coming from the front) I am sure that you would be much happier with the quality of the image. If you are really serious about birding and are wanting to see detail in feathers you are probably going to have to invest in a better lens, there are fine offerings from Sigma and Tamron, but for me the Canon 100-400 II is hard to beat.

tcthome Loc: NJ

For static images like sitting on a branch without much movement, try using a tripod & even manual focus if you have enough time. Also was the window open or closed & clean? As blurryeyed says with back lighted photos, most birds up higher in tree branches will be because of the sky is the back round. Getting closer might help some. Skittish = maybe some camo or a blind & requires time for them to develope the trust. Check out some post from Joer here on the hog. He sets up a habitat in his yard & I believe has a blind set up also. Do you have any type of VR on your lens? As far as ibis in the R5 & R6. I don't own but believe you have the option to turn it on or off. If you go to a site like B&H & look at the camera, on that page to the right as you scroll down , you will see a link for the camera manual for a lot of the equipment they sell. Also, Canon should have the manual for viewing on their site. If you spring for the R5/6, you might as well get the RF-600 or 800 f11 lens &, if not their RF 100-500. The focus system on the R's should be much better. Scrap shooting threw the window unless it is open. Also with wildlife photos, usually half or better are throw scrapped & the norm.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

IBIS is of no use at 1/800 ! Just turn it OFF. Consider using facial stabilization and lens holding brackets for stabilizing for the purpose of composition when hand holding.
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imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Exactly Which 70-300 lens - and which extender ??

JFCoupe Loc: Kent, Washington

One of your questions was about IBIS showing up in the view finder.

I shoot an Olympus EM-1 MK II and with my 12-100 mm zoom and ocasionally the IS switch on the lens will end up in the off position. I will notice that I am not able to hold the camera steady (age 72). I will check both the lens and the LCD to check on IS and most often one of the settings is turned off. So using my Olympus, I can definitely see the advantage of IS in the view finder or live view.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

So will most everybody that has an IBIS-capable camera, with all focal lengths, shutterspeeds and shooting situations. Although, IBIS is not a feature of the OP's current camera.

JonathanChemE

It is EF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 IS USM; the extender 1.4 Teleplus Pro 300 (Kenko)

JonathanChemE

The lighting is coming from the up and to the right. So in the case of the hawk over the left shoulder. But there is a white fence in the background that acts like a reflector.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Lighting is very important, it is not the camera body that is giving you trouble right now, having said that I assure you that you would love an R5 or R6, if you are into birding then the higher megapixel R5 would be my suggestion. But your money would be better spent on a new lens. Take a look at my Flickr page linked below, all the images of eagles, ospreys and other large birds were shot with various Canon DSLR's none of which had IBIS.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gefforyk/

JonathanChemE

I appreciate all of the input. I was trying to get to a particular question on Canon IBIS and the viewfinder. Which was would IBIS help me frame the image better? I am inferring from what I heard that it would not. I am getting older and weaker from post-polio syndrome so weight is an issue when looking at purchasing cameras and lenses (not to mention cost.) Better weather is starting to come in and I may be able to get on some walking trails on my scooter to try some things without a window. I do have a monopod and working on being able to use that better. As far as investment it seems to be consensus that glass would be a higher priority than the camera.