YN685 External Power Pack
May 4, 2021 13:45:18 #
May 4, 2021 13:55:30 #
You have to balance out the amount of back up power you want with how much weight you're willing to carry.
May 5, 2021 22:10:58 #
DBrock4316 wrote:
Suggestions?
https://www.amazon.com/Innovatronix-Piece-SpeedFire-Speedlites-Equivalent/dp/B07R28MXW3
or
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32966359666.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.13da6df2rpKhst&algo_pvid=1fe576af-1574-41d2-9a03-cede48a2dcaa&algo_expid=1fe576af-1574-41d2-9a03-cede48a2dcaa-0&btsid=0bb0624216202669897961591e9613&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
I imagine it would be relatively easy to rig up something like that tronix speedfire using a 4a 6v dc power supply that and couple dummy batteries.
May 6, 2021 12:51:51 #
There are a few external power supplies for SPEEDLIGHT on the market Most of them replace the 4- AA batteries with an insert wired to a more efficient battery with a higher ampere/hour rating. These DO NOTboost the power output, watt. second specification, or guide number. They DO, however, provide many more flashes per charge than the AA size rechargeable cells and will usually reduce the recycling time where fast shooting sequences are required. The recycling time will be more consistent as the battery discharges. Of course, you won't need to continuously replace dead or dying disposable batteries. A few models are not completely portable in that they work on AC households and are more suitable for studio-like situations. They are based on a transformer and a rectifier circuit that converts household curred AC to 6 Volts DC.
Some of the smaller kinda pocket-size versions, probably work on Lithium-Ion batteries- I am not sure of the capacity as to flasher per charge.
You can easily and inexpensively create a DYI unit- I have done that for years on many of my speed- lights and strobes using 6 and 12 volt sealed lead-acid batteries, often branded Gel-Cell or Dry-Fit. You do not need to be an electronics technician but some basic knowledge is required. Being handy with a soldering iron or gun will be helpful. Here are some tips.
Most speedlights operate on 4- AA batteries this is 4 1.5 Volt batteries in a series circuit= 6DCV. You will have to determine how the battery compartment is configured to provide the series circuit and determine the contact points where the 6 volts are received by the unit. A Multimeter will be helpful. If your Speedlight has a battery insert- this task will be measured- simply probe the various terminal in the insert and fines the corresponding contacts in the battery compartment. If the batteries go directly into the speeding, without an insert, you can hook up a couple of probes to the battery and probe around on the various contacts with the unit turn on, until you find the rig combination. If you mistake,y rever the polarity, no damage will occur- it just won't turn on.
Once you have determined the right configuration you are ready to make the "dummy insert" and wire it up. I have made the insert out of 4 small lengths of wooden dowel of the same diameter and length of the AA batteries. I have all used plastic rod material. The electrical terminal is made of wood or plastic screws that are fastened to the dowels or plastic rods. The wire is placed between the parts or alongside the insert. The wires are attached to the screws as you would to the screw terminals on a duplex electrical outlet- wound around the screen in the direction in which it is tightened or soldered to a spade or round lug. The other end of the wire can be attached to the battery a battery contact lug.
I added an RCA-type plug and socket for fast battery changeover and charging purposes.
Attached, is an image of one of my conversions. It uses a 6 Volt Sealed Lead Acid Battery- the type used in hallway emergency safety lights. These batteries are in the 5 Ampere/Hour range and will provide hundreds of flashes per charge with fast and consistent recycling times. I carry it in a belt pack or a small shoulder strapped case from an old point-and-shoot camera. There are larger and heaver 6 -Volt versions of these batteries in the 7 Ampere/Hour range that will provide many hundreds of flashes per charge.
Costs? The 6V 5+ a/h cells average about $35.00 Infrequent use for the last about 2-3 years. I have several units so I have several chargers for which I paid between $25. and $40.. They have all been in service for over 15 years without issue. They will automatically switch to trickle charge he the batter is fully charged.
Some speedlights MAY have a low voltage port to accommodate an external battery so all that is needed is a compatible plug. Some older models have a high voltage port that boosts the output but the booster has to be of the same make and model.
On larger portable strobes such as some of the Lumadyne, Norman and Q-Flash products, I have replaced the very expensive Nicad and Lithium batteries with t 12- Vold gell cess at an average cost of $50. as opposed to $200- to $300. - they are fully compatible and work perfectly.
McIver is your friend!
Some of the smaller kinda pocket-size versions, probably work on Lithium-Ion batteries- I am not sure of the capacity as to flasher per charge.
You can easily and inexpensively create a DYI unit- I have done that for years on many of my speed- lights and strobes using 6 and 12 volt sealed lead-acid batteries, often branded Gel-Cell or Dry-Fit. You do not need to be an electronics technician but some basic knowledge is required. Being handy with a soldering iron or gun will be helpful. Here are some tips.
Most speedlights operate on 4- AA batteries this is 4 1.5 Volt batteries in a series circuit= 6DCV. You will have to determine how the battery compartment is configured to provide the series circuit and determine the contact points where the 6 volts are received by the unit. A Multimeter will be helpful. If your Speedlight has a battery insert- this task will be measured- simply probe the various terminal in the insert and fines the corresponding contacts in the battery compartment. If the batteries go directly into the speeding, without an insert, you can hook up a couple of probes to the battery and probe around on the various contacts with the unit turn on, until you find the rig combination. If you mistake,y rever the polarity, no damage will occur- it just won't turn on.
Once you have determined the right configuration you are ready to make the "dummy insert" and wire it up. I have made the insert out of 4 small lengths of wooden dowel of the same diameter and length of the AA batteries. I have all used plastic rod material. The electrical terminal is made of wood or plastic screws that are fastened to the dowels or plastic rods. The wire is placed between the parts or alongside the insert. The wires are attached to the screws as you would to the screw terminals on a duplex electrical outlet- wound around the screen in the direction in which it is tightened or soldered to a spade or round lug. The other end of the wire can be attached to the battery a battery contact lug.
I added an RCA-type plug and socket for fast battery changeover and charging purposes.
Attached, is an image of one of my conversions. It uses a 6 Volt Sealed Lead Acid Battery- the type used in hallway emergency safety lights. These batteries are in the 5 Ampere/Hour range and will provide hundreds of flashes per charge with fast and consistent recycling times. I carry it in a belt pack or a small shoulder strapped case from an old point-and-shoot camera. There are larger and heaver 6 -Volt versions of these batteries in the 7 Ampere/Hour range that will provide many hundreds of flashes per charge.
Costs? The 6V 5+ a/h cells average about $35.00 Infrequent use for the last about 2-3 years. I have several units so I have several chargers for which I paid between $25. and $40.. They have all been in service for over 15 years without issue. They will automatically switch to trickle charge he the batter is fully charged.
Some speedlights MAY have a low voltage port to accommodate an external battery so all that is needed is a compatible plug. Some older models have a high voltage port that boosts the output but the booster has to be of the same make and model.
On larger portable strobes such as some of the Lumadyne, Norman and Q-Flash products, I have replaced the very expensive Nicad and Lithium batteries with t 12- Vold gell cess at an average cost of $50. as opposed to $200- to $300. - they are fully compatible and work perfectly.
McIver is your friend!
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.