kenievans Loc: Dallas

I tried a new technique (for me) this weekend, smoothing running water. I used a 6ND filter and a tripod. I was really happy with the results for my first time. I shot it at 18mm F16 ISO 100 @ 1/4 second. It was around 4 in the afternoon. Any tips for improvement next time?

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rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Keni, you're in the ballpark. You might try a couple of different shutter speeds, 1 sec, 1/2 sec, etc, and then judge for yourself which is to your liking.

However, you may have to change f-stop or ISO to accommodate the different shutter speeds and have the exposure approximately the same for each.
--Bob

kenievans Loc: Dallas

Bob I took several with different exposure adjustments. Maybe I didn't play with it enough. I have a darker filter I can use as well. I will try that next time. Thanks!

Jim-Pops Loc: Granbury, Texas

For a day time shot. Your darkest filter, lowest ISO, F/16 maybe, on a tripod and then test the exposure time. Hopefully you will get a much longer exposure time. If windy you might need to use two shots one faster for the trees then a longer one for the water now blend the two images in photoshop.

kenievans Loc: Dallas

Thank you Jim. I am going to Galveston in July and I want to do a sunrise shot with smooth water. I will make sure I have the darker filters with me. My next question is about doing this at night. What is the best way to focus in such low light? I have tried it before and I can't seem to get a sharp photo. I have a new camera that is better with low light focusing but any tips would be appreciated.

Cwilson341 Loc: Central Florida

Keni, I don't have any pointers to share but I really like this as it is. The water has an almost pearlescent quality in places. Very pretty. Experimenting is fun and you just need to get it to the point where it is what you wanted!

Jim-Pops Loc: Granbury, Texas

Just yesterday I saw a YouTube video from a guy that takes mostly sunrise and sunset landscape pictures. He was talking about long exposures and just happens he was talking about the trouble he had with focus. He insisted you have to get out there early find your composition, make sure where the sunset will be, set your shot up with a tripod and get your focus set. You can either use an external camera trigger or use the cameras timer. You need a tripod. If you are going to have the tripod in the water make sure you have the narrowest legs extended. Don't have the water over half of that leg portion of the tripod even in calmer water. The water could shake the camera and he was trying to have as little as possible shake. The best time last only 5 min at sundown. If I had a place I wanted to go I would test my exposure time close to home at about the same time around sundown. You will probably only have time for three or four long exposure shots. You probably won't want your darkest filter. The darker the filter the longer the time obviously. At night he mentioned using f/16 to get as much as possible in focus.

ejones0310 Loc: Tulsa, OK

Back in my film days I used to shoot Kodachrome 25 which enabled me to set very low shutter speed to get the exposures I wanted. The results were a smoky effect where the water was moving.

ebrunner Loc: New Jersey Shore

You have already gotten a ton of good information from Bob and others. I do a lot of long exposure shots at the beach. Generally, I find that the sunrise colors (the beach looks east on the east coast, so sunrise has the sun over the water) are best just before the sun comes up. It is pretty dark at that time of day; but I still use a 10 stop filter very often. With low ISO and f11 or f16 I'll sometimes have exposure times that are several minutes long. The result is that the waves in the surf become completely flat and can give some stunning effects. ( I'll post some here if you want me to; but I don't want to hijack your thread).

You are photographing a stream here and I think that it is nice to have some blur in the water to show movement. But you did not use such a long exposure time as to give that cotton candy effect. Some like that look and others like having some texture in the water. You just have to work out which is your preference. This scene has a lot of light in in and the leaves of the trees are very bright. I think with that kind of look a bit of texture in the water (like you did here) yields the best results. If it is much darker, then a longer exposure can be effective and give a very moody and atmospheric look to the image. Good luck with your further experiments. I think long exposure photography is really fun.
Erich

kenievans Loc: Dallas

Much appreciated Jim. I will have several days and nights to experiment. I will keep these tips in mind.

kenievans Loc: Dallas

I am definitely still in the experimental stage so I am not sure what I like best but I will get it worked out. I am glad you like it!

kenievans Loc: Dallas

Thanks Erich. It really appears like I need to go with the darker filter so I have more room to adjust. I enjoy the challenge of figuring it out. I didn't care too much for the smooth water look at first but it has grown on me in part because of your images.

ebrunner Loc: New Jersey Shore

That is a very nice compliment. Thank you and good luck with your experimentation. I forgot to mention that I have round filters that screw into my lenses. One is a four stop, and the other is a 6 stop. Together they make 10. I also bought a square 10 stop filter that attaches to your lenses via an adapter and then you can slip the filter into the filter holder. The screw in filters were the cheaper way to go;but they are not as versatile because they are one size. Some people by round filters that are bigger than their lenses and use step down adapters so that the round filters will work on a variety of different diameters. If you need any help with things or have questions, feel free to ask.
Erich

kenievans Loc: Dallas

I have seen the square filters and holder. Its interesting that you would say the screw on filters are cheaper. I would think that one filter that you could use on different lenses would be less expensive in the long run rather than buying specific filters for each lens. I have three different sizes and three different f stops up to a 9. I went with a middle of the road brand, Tiffen. I knew I needed a better quality than the really cheap ones but I couldn't see spending as much as some of the others cost but then I am not a professional.

ebrunner Loc: New Jersey Shore

The screw in filters are only a good deal if you can use them on multiple lenses. Many of my most used Nikkor lenses have the same filter size. The square filter that I have is from NISI. It is nice because it comes with a polarazer that screws into the holder. That is a plus. But, if you already have Tiffen, then go with that. These things can get very expensive.
Erich