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Nikon exposure bracketing
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Apr 7, 2021 18:34:48   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
larryepage wrote:
I know. It's in the manual (pp. 182ff). I've just never found it in the menu. It shows to be close to the tail-end of the Shooting Menu on the D850. I'll look again tonight. I used HDR all the time when I was using my D200 (not in-camera, though), but then pretty much stopped when I got the newer cameras and started using raw. Thanks for being patient as I look for it. To me, the usefulness is determined by how the camera does the tone-mapping to fit the finished product back into an 8 bit JPEG envelope.
I know. It's in the manual (pp. 182ff). I've jus... (show quote)


Ok. This is a little embarrassing, but not too much. When I got home today, I dug out my D850. The HDR option is, in fact, in the menu, but it is grayed out and essentially not visible. And it is exactly where it is supposed to be, according to the manual. So if you have any raw data going anywhere, the function will not be available to you, even if you have JPEGs being saved somewhere else. The day has been too long and stressful for me to have the energy to fret with turning raw off right now. I know that sounds ugly, and it probably is, but someone else will need to follow up on this if it's important to get an answer tonight.

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Apr 7, 2021 19:04:50   #
tcthome Loc: NJ
 
You can set the metering mode on your camera to Spot Metering. Take a reading of the brightest spot & the darkest spot to know how many stops difference you need to set your bracket. Probably best to shoot in manual. then pick the highlight or shadow & adjust your bracket from there. ou could always play with a speedlight to fill in the shadows if you feel like or need to. Good luck & post a photo.

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Apr 7, 2021 20:01:00   #
jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania
 
Alphabravo2020 wrote:
I was playing around with HDR mode over the weekend in an attempt to deal with back-lit subjects in direct sunlight. I kind of gave up when I couldn't get the HDR function to enable on my D850 and also I read that this situation is better dealt with using bracketing.

So I'm testing out bracketing and I'm wondering if the intent is to be able to selectively stack the variously exposed images in post. Also, if I shoot in manual and get 3 frames of a scene at 0, +2, and +4, I presume this means that the ISO is adjusted and not aperture or shutter speed. Anyway, can I stack these in Photoshop somehow? I'd appreciate if anyone knows a good tutorial.

Related question. I imagine that if I want to use bracketing to deal with a back-lit subject such as a model in direct sunlight, that the success is somewhat dependent on the capture rate of the camera. At 7 or 9 fps for the D850, I'd guess that the subject and background should be pretty static for the stacking to work effectively in post.

Also, when setting up the shot, is there a way to tell how far underexposed, say the shadowed face of the subject is using the exposure meter in the viewfinder...to help decide what bracketing steps to use? Once you get past two steps the viewfinder no longer indicates how far the exposure is under/over. I guess I could count wheel clicks above a properly exposed background to get proper exposure on, say, the shadowed face of the subject.

TIA. I'm thinking I will buy Steve Perry's book and see if that helps.
I was playing around with HDR mode over the weeken... (show quote)


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Most of the time the Shutter Speed is what is adjusted.

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Apr 8, 2021 00:42:56   #
Alphabravo2020
 
tcthome wrote:
You can set the metering mode on your camera to Spot Metering. Take a reading of the brightest spot & the darkest spot to know how many stops difference you need to set your bracket. Probably best to shoot in manual. then pick the highlight or shadow & adjust your bracket from there. ou could always play with a speedlight to fill in the shadows if you feel like or need to. Good luck & post a photo.


Can you count command wheel clicks to get the approximate number of 1/3 steps between the two exposures?

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