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Little repair job
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Mar 20, 2021 09:32:09   #
SkyKing Loc: Thompson Ridge, NY
 
shutterhawk wrote:
A little while back I did a little trip and fall while carrying my D500 and 200-500 lens. The only casualty was my lens shade which was cracked. Being as retail on a new one is $53.00 (pretty crazy for a piece of plastic) I attempted to repair it. I've tried both epoxy and Tamiya cement. Neither worked. Any adhesive chemists out there? I really don't care what the repair looks like as it'll be covered with a camo Lens Coat. Thanks in advance.


...don’t punish yourself more for being clumsy...if $54 dollars is the only lose for dropping your gear it’s a bargain...pay the price...learn from your mistake and move on...

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Mar 20, 2021 09:38:42   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
Manglesphoto wrote:
Lens hoods are more than likely thermal plastic and Acetone will not touch them ( eat or melt).
Super Glue will hold for a while. My suggestion would be to drill small holes on both sides of the break then use JB Weld on BOTH sides making sure it runs thru the holes, not pretty but it will work, I repaired a broken fan shroud mounting boss on a 6.9 Ford diesel and the last I heard 4 yrs later it was still holding.The reason for this repair was at the time the Bus was so new it was going to take almost 30 days to get a new shroud and that would mean lost revenue, in fact the day after the repair the bus left on a 2 week tour earning over 3K.
Lens hoods are more than likely thermal plastic an... (show quote)

It definitely depends on the characteristics of the plastic for acetone to work well!
I never delved into from what any part of the camera system is made.

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Mar 20, 2021 09:58:49   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
RichinSeattle wrote:
Super glue?


I would research super glues and pick one that seems good. Look at Project Farm for his test.

I sw a video yesterday - Adam Savage - and he said that the medium weight CA glue is easier to work with. Using an accelerator makes it harden quickly. another trick is using baking soda to give more support. Combining CA glue with baking soda not only makes it harden faster, but it adds support. CA glue was actually developed to hold wounds shut.

https://www.google.com/search?q=baking+soda+and+ca+glue&sxsrf=ALeKk017G5Q9brgy_pdOKwH5-jY04NB9gg%3A1616248454966&ei=hv5VYJbDOqurwbkPj7mW-Ac&oq=baking+soda+and+ca+glue&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyAggAMgUIABCGAzIFCAAQhgMyBQgAEIYDMgUIABCGAzoHCAAQRxCwAzoGCAAQBxAeOgQIABANUMrgA1jo5QNgrugDaAFwAngAgAF9iAHJA5IBAzQuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrIAQjAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwiWnpvYgr_vAhWrVTABHY-cBX8Q4dUDCA4&uact=5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZqf5rOJNCE

Another possibility is to apply tape to the outside of the hood in the area of the crack. Actually, you could apply tape inside, too. If you want to spend just a few dollars, get a fiberglass kit - woven fiberglass. I've usued that for many repairs.

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Mar 20, 2021 10:15:54   #
dougbev3 Loc: Pueblo, Colorado
 
Gorilla glue , the kind where you dampen each side, then apply glue. I have had great results with that, to the point where it is the only glue I use.

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Mar 20, 2021 10:51:41   #
Peteso Loc: Blacks Hills
 
You need a thick epoxy, not a super glue. Get JB Weld. They make several epoxys, and the strongest is the original "Cold Weld" formula. It takes a few hours to set up and up to 24 hours to cure, but it's incredibly strong (over 5000 PSI). Some mechanics even use it to make inexpensive repairs like exhaust leaks.

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Mar 20, 2021 11:19:33   #
riderxlx Loc: DFW area Texas
 
Peteso wrote:
You need a thick epoxy, not a super glue. Get JB Weld. They make several epoxys, and the strongest is the original "Cold Weld" formula. It takes a few hours to set up and up to 24 hours to cure, but it's incredibly strong (over 5000 PSI). Some mechanics even use it to make inexpensive repairs like exhaust leaks.


This is correct sir.
I also use the Quick Set JB Weld which sets and harden in 5 minutes. I would like to see a photo of the hood and if we could see the damage we can offer more tips.
Bruce.

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Mar 20, 2021 11:34:52   #
Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore
 
problem is the broke area is very thin so must overlap on the sides.

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Mar 20, 2021 11:38:02   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
Search Ebay for a generic replacement hood. It will do the job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljyyhR0SBfw

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Mar 20, 2021 11:42:04   #
riderxlx Loc: DFW area Texas
 
Sidwalkastronomy wrote:
problem is the broke area is very thin so must overlap on the sides.


It can be fixed. You received several good tips from member here. Glue or tape a scab piece of something to hold the thing in place and stabilize it. Then us the JB Weld to form a coating to secure the area. Once set, you can do the same in the other side.

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Mar 20, 2021 11:55:29   #
TreborLow
 
Crazy glue gel worked on my Pentax shade. Very thin part where the polarizer door opens. Still holding after a few months.

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Mar 20, 2021 13:24:03   #
Amielee Loc: Eastern Washington State
 
riderxlx wrote:
JB Weld will do. Simple and not expensive.
Bruce


JB Weld makes a glue for plastic. Look for JB Weld plastic. That is about the only thing I use on plastic and it works great. Takes a little time to set up but if you wait until it gets thick (about 10 min.) it sets up fine and holds until you can clamp it easily.

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Mar 20, 2021 13:26:12   #
marine73 Loc: Modesto California
 
Soldering iron tip run along the crack, should melt the plastic back together. Do Not Hold in one spot as it will melt a hole. Test technique on scrap plastic before using it on you lens hood.

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Mar 20, 2021 13:29:05   #
Steved3604
 
JB Weld. I like the "regular" JB Weld. I sometimes use the "fast" JB Weld to hold things together (dries/sets up fast) and then cover it later with the "regular" JB Weld. I have found the "regular" JB Weld to be stronger than the quick setting JB Weld in many cases. With the regular JB Weld don't hurry the set time -- let it set a day or two. The suggestions for using material for extra support and then using JB Weld to hold everything together is a good idea. Or, as suggested, just get a generic or break down and get a new one. If you are always going to look at this and remember that you broke it maybe new is better.

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Mar 20, 2021 13:39:29   #
clint f. Loc: Priest Lake Idaho, Spokane Wa
 
KEH or some similar used photo equipment store.

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Mar 20, 2021 13:57:50   #
riderxlx Loc: DFW area Texas
 
Steved3604 wrote:
JB Weld. I like the "regular" JB Weld. I sometimes use the "fast" JB Weld to hold things together (dries/sets up fast) and then cover it later with the "regular" JB Weld. I have found the "regular" JB Weld to be stronger than the quick setting JB Weld in many cases. With the regular JB Weld don't hurry the set time -- let it set a day or two. The suggestions for using material for extra support and then using JB Weld to hold everything together is a good idea. Or, as suggested, just get a generic or break down and get a new one. If you are always going to look at this and remember that you broke it maybe new is better.
JB Weld. I like the "regular" JB Weld. ... (show quote)


You are right Steve. I have all the versions of JB Weld since I had a sail boat I also have the Marine type. I too find the regular is stronger but still the quick set is very strong especially for a fix like this. You are very accurate in using the quick set to get the broken piece stabel and use the regular to build it up. It will outlast the owner by a hundred years if he follows your instructions. I have used this stuff for years for all kinds of broken things and it never has failed me. I do wish the OP would post a photo of the broke piece.
Bruce.

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