Want to see this in Download.
SonyA580
Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer
I'm curious as to what you are looking for with this shot ..., exposure, focus or sharpness?
Looks as though this is a keeper...
Its a non SI lens and wanted to see de results. Got the same lens (18/55) comming next week but with it.
Lots of purple chromatic aberration which can be seen in double download.
yssirk123 wrote:
Lots of purple chromatic aberration which can be seen in double download.
Boy, you are not kidding...everywhere.
Yes, lots of chromatic aberrations. Perhaps the new lens is better corrected.
Sylvia from England uses this lens all the time and her images are excellent.
Ourspolair wrote:
Looks as though this is a keeper...
Not to me. Boring. Uninspired. That lens has no flavanoids.
I mean no disrespect but what is the central focus point of your photo? What is it you want us to notice most? There seems to be nothing standing out that is truly memorable. You mention a non SI lens. I have no idea what that means. Is it Canon, Nikon, Sony, what focal length? Are you just clicking the shutter to see what happens?
As others have mentioned there is much purple chromatic aberration to notice.
Dennis
azted
Loc: Las Vegas, NV.
It looks like a murder scene on the lower right by the turned over pool or tub.
I'm not sure what your "checking out" but light does pass through it.
--Bob
donrent wrote:
Want to see this in Download.
Most lenses will have chromatic aberration in an extremely strong contrast situation like those branches against the sky. I wouldn't worry too much about that, except....
1. If you have a filter on the lens, try without it... some filters amplify CA.
2. You might try stopping down a bit to see if that reduces CA. The image EXIF shows this shot was done wide open, f/3.5 at 18mm. CA tends to be worse in out of focus areas. Stopping down to a middle aperture like f/5.6 or f/8 will increase depth of field and with more in sharp focus, it should make for less CA.
3. You might be able to "tune out" the CA in post-processing. Depends upon what software you use. "Lens profiles", if software supports them, can do it automatically.... at least to some extent. (Canon's own Digital Photo Pro RAW conversion software should have built in profiles for most Canon lenses.... Adobe Lightroom has many of them, too.)
If not already using one, get the appropriate lens hood (different versions of EF-S 18-55mm use different hoods, so be VERY careful to select the correct one). A hood may help with better overall image contrast and avoid some flare, though it likely won't do much to reduce CA. A hood also helps physically protect the lens while it's in use (better than the thin piece of glass in a "protection" filter ever could).
Lens is a Canon EF-S 18-55mm... a kit lens that's often included with APS-C camera models. There have been six or eight different versions of that lens over the years. This is probably one of the more "basic" models since it lacks IS and doesn't appear to have STM focusing motor. "Early" models of that lens don't have as good image quality as later. Early ones also commonly have a front barrel that rotates during focusing, which can be a pain in the arse when using a circular polarizing filter.
The camera used is an 18MP Canon 550D/T2i.
Frankly, it's pretty amazing just how good images are possible even with inexpensive "kit" lenses these days.
The IS (image stabilized) lens will be helpful for shots like this where you are hand holding 1/30 seconds. It it's also the STM version, that's likely one of the newer ones and will be faster, quieter focusing, too.
amfoto1 wrote:
Most lenses will have chromatic aberration in an extremely strong contrast situation like those branches against the sky. I wouldn't worry too much about that, except....
1. If you have a filter on the lens, try without it... some filters amplify CA.
2. You might try stopping down a bit to see if that reduces CA. The image EXIF shows this shot was done wide open, f/3.5 at 18mm. CA tends to be worse in out of focus areas. Stopping down to a middle aperture like f/5.6 or f/8 will increase depth of field and with more in sharp focus, it should make for less CA.
3. You might be able to "tune out" the CA in post-processing. Depends upon what software you use. "Lens profiles", if software supports them, can do it automatically.... at least to some extent. (Canon's own Digital Photo Pro RAW conversion software should have built in profiles for most Canon lenses.... Adobe Lightroom has many of them, too.)
If not already using one, get the appropriate lens hood (different versions of EF-S 18-55mm use different hoods, so be VERY careful to select the correct one). A hood may help with better overall image contrast and avoid some flare, though it likely won't do much to reduce CA. A hood also helps physically protect the lens while it's in use (better than the thin piece of glass in a "protection" filter ever could).
Lens is a Canon EF-S 18-55mm... a kit lens that's often included with APS-C camera models. There have been six or eight different versions of that lens over the years. This is probably one of the more "basic" models since it lacks IS and doesn't appear to have STM focusing motor. "Early" models of that lens don't have as good image quality as later. Early ones also commonly have a front barrel that rotates during focusing, which can be a pain in the arse when using a circular polarizing filter.
The camera used is an 18MP Canon 550D/T2i.
Frankly, it's pretty amazing just how good images are possible even with inexpensive "kit" lenses these days.
The IS (image stabilized) lens will be helpful for shots like this where you are hand holding 1/30 seconds. It it's also the STM version, that's likely one of the newer ones and will be faster, quieter focusing, too.
Most lenses will have chromatic aberration in an e... (
show quote)
Nice to see some encouraging comments rather what's wrong.
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