ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

You need a faster lens. What other lenses do you own ? If you can buy a 50mm f1.8 that would be cheapest but you need to zoom with your feet.
Drop scene modes, if you don't want to shoot M mode shoot shutter priority, 1/500 sec shutter speed, auto ISO and lens wide open.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Auto iso, wide open, or close to, and shutter starting about, 1/500. If blurry, raise shutter speed.

Stop action is fine either by flash or fast shutter speed. Since you can not use flash, it will distract the fighters, you have to do it with shutter.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Give up on that idea. Even though the D7500 has an "Anti-Flicker" mode, the low light performance will only be so-so. For better performance a full frame camera is what you will need. If you don't believe me, follow the link and plug in any ISO value over 6400 for the D7500 and compare it to nearly any other full frame camera.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

The problem is that in many HS gyms, there’s not enough light to even use 1/500. I’ve probably shot 50-100 matches in the last few years, and I routinely shoot at f2.0 - f2.8 and even with ISOs between 6400-12,800 (which gives acceptable noise on a FF), you rarely can get above 1/250. For Basketball, where the lighting is better, or in gyms with windows in the daytime, you can certainly get to 1/500 (or above). The good news is that in wrestling, 1/250 is usually adequate. To do this well, as Gene says, a fast lens and a FF are the tools of choice. Indoor sports in poorly lighted gyms are a corner case in terms of the demands on equipment.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

This is true. If there really is not enough light, he may not be able to get anything acceptable, that is frozen action and acceptable noise. I haven't been in a gym, except boxing, in a LONG, time. I didn't realize they were that dark.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I think it’s a function of the sport. With a basketball game, they use all the lights and there is a big crowd, but with wrestling, it’s often held in the “small gym” (in a larger HS ) or with less lighting, and 100 spectators is a good sized crowd. Your living room at night is about the same light level - it’s a surprise if you haven’t experienced how dark it is.

mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

Your camera is capable, but you need a faster lens. I have a D500 and have shot 7th grade basketball in M priority at f2.8, 70mm, 1/320 shutter and Auto ISO which settled at 500 ISO.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeroelaf/32725804881/in/album-72157676617006894/

You can buy a used 70-200 f4 lens for about $5-600 and push the ISO another stop to 800 or 1600 with acceptable noise from that sensor.

You don't mention how close you are allowed to get. Some of your blur could be from zooming from the stands. Far away and trying to zoom to the action is a bad recipe. Get down on the floor within 5-10 ft for the action.
And on your belly, eye level with the wrestlers for the best shots!

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I

Just a couple of comments:

An f4 is not fast enough, and an ISO of 800-1600 may be fine for basketball, but unless your gyms are a lot brighter than mine, you won’t have nearly the light for wrestling as you do for BB. Expect ISOs of 6400 or higher.

Getting down on the floor gives you a great perspective, but if you do it often enough near the ring, expect a couple of large wrestlers to crash into you and your gear (I’ve watched it happen as my son wrestled 4 years in HS and college and currently coaches HS wrestling).

Bar Loc: da 'YouPee', eh!

I have the same lens and sensor for my D-5300, set it to auto ISO and 1/500 ss. If you can't get acceptable results you will need a faster lens

mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

Why would the lighting change? It's the same gym for wrestling as for basketball. Unless you feel the court reflects more ambient light than the mats, a conceivable possibility. Now, I don't expect that an amateur family member could get as close as the rings, but would have to shoot from just off the mats or the front row of bleachers if lucky. But shooting from the stands and always standing up will get you a lot of shots of the back of their necks, yes?

P.S. I looked at your wrestling shots. Very nice work, even if I do think you got down to floor level. We just disagree on exposure needed and sensor capability. The only sure way to know is to be in the OP's gym and take some shots!

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

I've never been to a wrestling match. My son has a friend with a son in it and he goes all over in competition and wind all the time. Maybe I should go watch(and take some shots). As soon as our schools activities open back up.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Thank you. Some shots were taken sitting on the front row of bleachers, and some were taken standing on the sidelines, but I NEVER got down in the floor, either sitting and certainly not lying down as I know better. In any given match, wrestlers come barreling out of the ring many times, and unless you (and you equipment) are able to move VERY quickly, you’re going to get hurt when 300-500 lbs of wrestlers crash into you or worse fall on you. I have actually seen this happen. At one match last year, a newbie photographer spent most of the match lying on the floor on his stomach to get that perspective, which surprisingly, the ref allowed. It lasted about 30 minutes until a pair of 200 lb wrestlers landed on him. Broken camera (and luckily) just bruises and a cut lip for the photographer. It could have been much worse, and you can bet he never did it again.

As far as the lighting, many of the larger high schools in this area (which may have 2,000-3,000 students) have multiple gyms, and except for tournaments, which are held on weekends in the daytime, they use the smaller facility, for wrestling matches, which invariably have poorer lighting than the main gym where basketball games are played. And you’re correct, mats are typically a dark color which doesn’t reflect much of anything. Over a season, I typically visit 6-12 gyms, and I can tell you that the lighting is very low. I shoot a FF Canon 5D4 with either a 70-200 f2.8 or a 135 f2, usually at f2 or f2.8 and 1/250 and the ISO (which is on Auto) ends up being between 5,000 and 12,800. I would love to shoot at 1/500 but only have that luxury during Saturday tournaments in gyms with Windows. If you’ve looked the shots I’ve posted, you can see the EXIF data and confirm that. Hopefully, the OP’s gyms are brighter, but like Gene, I just don’t think a crop body at very high ISOs with an f4.5-5.6 lens is going to yield good results. BTW, the biggest challenge, once you get past the equipment, is getting shots with faces instead of backs.

mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

I think we are on the same page generally. I spent several years as sports director for the local TV station, which means I shot a lot of my own video and covered multiple sports in some of the worst and best gyms you can imagine. I was always side by side with still photogs from the paper. Often times I was more interested in their work than getting my own vid and always asking them questions. Btw, you haven't lived until you're in the corner of the end zone at a college game and a 260 lbs tight end barrels across you in the corner of the end zone. All you can do is try to curl up to a fetal position in the millisecond you get to react. Ouch!

Getting a great shot indoors isn't always about laying down on the shutter in perfect light or shutter speed. Anticipation and knowing the sport can catch great candid shots as well.

I did eventually graduate to a D750 FX and am currently trying my luck with a Z6. I still grab the D500 when I need to shoot confidently, but you have to work it and know when the light isn't helping. Even color of uniform, spot metering and tightness of shot can affect the ISO. Of course, I go 3200 to 5000 with no issues if I absolutely have to. It also helps that the sensor is invariant and I can push a couple of stops in post, too.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Thanks for the detailed response Mike. I absolutely concur that knowing the sport so you can anticipate the action is key rather than “spray and pray”, although I do occasionally shoot a short burst. One thing I forgot to mention is to turn on anti-flicker if the OP’s camera has it. Without it, there’s typically a stop or more difference in successive shots just depending on whether you catch the lights near a peak or a zero-crossing.

Cheers,
Chris

Karen Frey

Thanks for info.