Chian Kho

I still have two old speed lights: Nikon SB-16 (used for my Nikon F3) and a Vivitar 285 (for my Olympus OM-1). I currently shoot with Nikon D850 with SB-5000 speedlight. I am looking to buy two other speedlights for multiple speedlights set up. Will either one, or both work as a slave or slaves to my SB-5000. If so, what do I need to make it, or make them, work with the SB-5000? If not, would a 3rd party speedlight like Godox TT685(N) with an XPro (N) wireless trigger be the practical approach? Thank you

Chian

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I am not familiar with either of the speedlights you mention. I have a 15 year old SB800 and a SB910 about 10 years old. They both work fine as either a commander or a slave.

I started with a D200, which had a built-in flash which would serve as a commander for my SB800. When I got a D3, there was no internal flash so I needed another speedlight to act as a commander. At that time the newest Nikon speedlight was the SB900, which had a reputation for overheating. The SB800 was out of production so I looked for a compatible alternative. Based on comments on various forums, I got a Nissin Di866, which was reputed to be fully compatible with the Nikon CLS.

When I got it, I did some tests and found it was not fully compatible. Probably 75-80% compatible. The Nissin was OK if I was doing normal shots with one on-camera speedlight. The Nissin would not do a modeling light which was possible on the SB800. I rarely use that feature so it wasn't a real problem for me. Then I tried the Nissin as a commander and the SB800 as a slave. Then I tried switching them. Using the Nissin as the commander, the SB800 would fire about 50-60% of the time. Using the SB800 as the commander, the Nissin fired every time.

Another thing I tried: occasionally I use a burst of shots with flash. I find it useful when taking shots of a group where lighting is needed. The burst allows me to get shots even if some of the group have a strong blink reflex. The people generally recover by the third shot of a burst. I generally use the highest ISO compatible with reasonable noise levels so that the light needed is minimal, and therefore a single charge will power several flashes. In a test of a subject in a small room bouncing flash off the ceiling, the SB800 was able to produce 10 shots before the power fell off noticeably. The Nissin would do 3-4 shots under the same conditions.

For those reasons, I recommend using the manufacturers speedlights. They are guaranteed to be fully compatible.

Eventually I got a SB910 when it came out and everything was good.

BebuLamar

Neither of the flashes has built in optical slave function so to trigger them you would need an optical slave trigger unit. (or you can trigger them with a cord). Trigger 2 flashes with 1 cord is a bit tricky but it can be done. You will have to use all the flashes on manual in a multi flashes setup. (although if you use only 1 flash both can function in non TTL auto. The SB-16a for the F3 wouldn't fit on to a regular hot shoe though).
The disadvantages of these old flashes in manual is that they don't offer a good range of power ratio. The 285 has only 1 power setting unless you have the vari power module. The SB16 has only 2. While a youngnuo would have over 20 power levels settings.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

You can easily trigger your old speedlights for slave operation by 2 means. You can simply ad an inexpensive photoelectric cell such as the Wein unit shown in the attached image, You can attach it via the synch socket if the older units have them. Sometimes it is an H socket or a PC terminal. You may need a synch cord or hot shoe to PC adapter to make the connection. All the off-camera flashes will react to the on-camera init.

The more expensive method is radio synchronization which entails a transmitter on the hot shoe of the camera and a receiver on each Speedlight.

If you are purchasing a new Speedlight, use it on the camer to ensure that the trigger voltage is safe. Some older units, especially someof the early Vivitar units have excessive trigger voltage which may harm your camera. Off- camer, with slave operation it won't hurt anything.

When you mix old and new units of different types and makes, of course, your TTL exposure system will not be in full control of exposure so you will need to operat in manual and adjust the outputs and distances of each of your units to achieve the lighting ratios you want. You can also use umbrellas or diffusers.

Working with mixed units may be a bit tricky to hone in on exposure and ratio, but it can be done and once you establish your settings you can standardize your system of working. There also may be a colour temperature differential between t units but it may not be critical.

The s Weing photoelectric cells are available from most dealers as well as the cords and required adapters. Paramount cords make every manner of sync cords and adapter cables.

If you decide to go the radio route, the popular brands are Pocket Wizard, Godox, Paul C. Buff and others.

petrochemist Loc: UK

These flash units will have to be used in manual mode, and amost certainly any newer flashes used with them should also be in manual mode.

It's possible to directly wire flashes to be triggered by the PC port and/or a hotshoe adapter. with older flashes its best to AVOID this direct wired approach. Many older flash units have high voltages on their triggers than can fry modern cameras.
Todays cameras are only guaranteed to be OK with a 5V trigger voltage, unless the trigger voltage of these flashes has been confirmed to be OK don't risk direct wiring. This could also be an issue for many radio triggers, but I'm sure some models have protection built in.

To prevent the risk of damage to expensive components I would go with the optical triggers, making sure none of the other flashes are in a TTL mode - for digital cameras TTL always uses a pre-flash which will set off optical slaves. There are also isolating adapters made which would be suitable, but all those I've looked at are much more expensive than used optical triggers... :)

Photocraig

Yup, the 285 will work fine. Can trigger with an optical slave, Camera auto flash stuff will actor the 285's output and adjust the auto flashes to compensate. It can be regulated from Full--powerful to 1/16 the power.

Experiment and have fun.
C

A10 Loc: Southern Indiana

Optical slave for the 285 and then buy a couple Godox units with a controller and you have a three light set-up.

BBurns Loc: South Bay, California

The matching item you want/need is the Vivitar SL-2 Remote Flash Trigger.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

The SB-26 will trigger off of another flash unit. It has a light sensor to do that.

Josephakraig

I shoot the D850 and knew before I got it that it did not have the popup flash, it almost kept me from getting it. At first I used the SB-900 as the commander but Nikon makes a CLS compatible SU-800 which sends an infrared signal to my SB900 and SB600's, it works great. I highly recommend it. There are likely other brands that do the same thing but I have to admit that the SU-800 works every time, even for high speed sync.

BebuLamar

But the OP has the SB-16 and it doesn't trigger off another flash unit.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

Are you saying if the SB-16 doesn't work, an SB-26 wouldn't work either? My SB-26 triggers off of any flash the sensor can see.

BebuLamar

I said the SB-16 doesn't and the OP has the SB-16. The SB-26 works but the OP doesn't have it.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

That's why I recommended he buy one or two. He asked for recommendations. I recommended the SB-26. What don't you understand?

Dean37 Loc: Fresno, CA

The SB-16 used PC wiring to connect them. I have 4 of them and they work well with the film cameras I have never tried them with a digital camera. I use my SB-900 and SB-800 for digital cameras.