MickMorini wrote:
Hello all. I have been using a Sony A65 for almost a year now, and have had some success getting sharp shots. Best have been with tripod.
The kit lenses, (18-55 and 55-200 SAM) I find plasticky and sticky in zooming. Less than impressed.
I have also purchased a Minolta 135mm f2.8 and realy like it.
My subjects are often birds at a distance of 8 to 15 metres.
I use spot metering, spot AF area and most usually manual focus usung the peaking level function to assist. Steady shot is on in hand held mode.
I also have the latest firmware.
Maybe I just need more practice, but ama little concerned at my good shots are few...
All contructive advice appreciated.
Cheers, Mick
Hello all. I have been using a Sony A65 for almost... (
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I have had an Alpha 55 for a year. I use either the 18-55 that came with it or the 28-100 Minolta that I bought later. I believe I've had ONE out of focus handheld shot in that whole time. I always leave the image stabilization on because I rarely use a tripod. You are correct that the SAM lenses feel plastic-ky but they DO take sharp-focused shots. At least mine does.
You failed to mention whether you were getting focused shots with the SAM lenses and now you're getting out of focus shots with the Minolta lens, or if you get out of focus shots with all lenses. It looks from another post like you may have posted samples but I don't see them.
You revealed two things that I find pertinent. You said, "Best have been with tripod." and "most usually manual focus."
If your best were with tripod then it seems logical that your handheld shots are allowing movement of the camera bigger than the image stabilization can deal with. Down in the bottom right corner, if your 65 is like my 55, there should be a little "shake meter" that settles as your camera movement does. On important shots I rely on that to help out.
"Most usually manual focus" logically also means your skill in focusing is less than the camera's skill in doing it for you.
The Sony cameras have the ability to operate at very high ISO settings with virtually no noise and you should take advantage of that fact. A higher ISO allows you to use a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture. A faster shutter speed helps reduce handheld movement and movement of the subject.
I'd recommend using at least ISO 200 for outdoors daytime shots and ISO 400 for early morning and early evening when the sun isn't so direct. Look at your settings as you boost ISO one step at a time and when you get to 1/500th at an aperture you desire, that's the ISO to use for that situation.
I've learned that ISO needs to become a third factor of the equation in your exposure settings every time you shoot. It's not like the old days of buying a certain ASA film, setting your ASA to match the film, and subliminally fearing what would happen if you "pushed" it. You can push digital ISO and see the result in your settings and on your viewfinder before you even shoot. The Alpha series higher ISO before noise design makes this beneficial for Sony users.
My Sony 55 is never set below ISO 200 anymore. At an event such as a picnic under a shelter or tent, I many times use ISO 400. Or I may even use ISO 800 and fill flash in that indirect light. With the high ISO 800 it requires almost no flash to fill thus the shots look more ambient rather than blasted with artificial light. I also use ISO 400 to 800 indoors with or without flash. Of course the camera sets itself to flash sync speed with flash but the aperture can be smaller with a higher ISO creating greater depth of field for groups.
My goal in using the higher ISO is to boost shutter speed so that people, leaves, grass, cars, and dogs don't blur from random movement that I can't possibly prepare for.
For artistic scenery shooting (such as a waterfall or fountain or stream) where movement may be desirable, a lower ISO would obviously allow more latitude in your other settings for creative shooting on a tripod.