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Question: B&W Film Chemistry
Nov 2, 2020 11:26:48 #
Nov 2, 2020 13:46:49 #
Ourspolair wrote:
D72 would probably work on all of them T-max and Tri-x 400 are essentially the same. Ilford FP-4 has a similar formulation. Stop bath and fixers are not critical. Everything is time and temperature - dependant (but you know that anyway). Have fun but beware, if they have not been kept in a temperature -controlled environment you may get some really unpredictable results.
No. D-72 is a print developer. You must have meant D-76.
Nov 2, 2020 14:09:32 #
spaceytracey
Loc: East Glacier Park, MT
Thomas902 wrote:
Blues Dude I can assure you the D76 works well for... (show quote)
Nice! I love the richness of this photo. Nothing like film.
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Nov 2, 2020 14:52:13 #
ELNikkor wrote:
Never heard of D72, but just bought some D76 for my first foray into B&W since 1992.
I recommend "clip tests." In the dark, cut off several inches beyond the film tongue and develop these strips according to "time and temperature" recommendations of your developer: D-76 (Kodak), ID-11 (Ilford), T-max (Kodak) or any mentioned above. Develop, stop, fix, wash, Photo-Flo normally and view results. If image tones look too dark, use shorter developing times; if too transparent, increase times. Your various film might require individual attention to get best results.
FTY, D72 is Kodak's "generic" name for the formula to make a black and white paper developer. Qualities are similar to Kodak's Dektol paper developer. Probably a typo!"
As for stop bath, you could use plain water but with old film, dichroic fog might show up. For the last 20 years of our custom lab business, we used Citric Acid instead of Acetic Acid (in vinegar, hence the smell!). No smell and friendlier to our pipes. Finish off with regular or rapid fixer. Wash and use Photo-Flo to avoid water spots.
Good luck! Be well.
Ed
Nov 2, 2020 15:22:58 #
wrangler5
Loc: Missouri
When I stopped using film I was using PMK Pyro developer for all of the Kodak and Ilford B&W films I shot. IIRC, its principal benefit was that it tended to keep highlights from going totally black in the negatives/white in the print. Got it from a place called Photographer's Formulary.
Nov 2, 2020 16:48:53 #
D-72 is for developing prints.
Kodak had a pamphlet with all the chemical ingredients for D-72, D-76, etc.
Kodak had a pamphlet with all the chemical ingredients for D-72, D-76, etc.
Nov 2, 2020 21:48:21 #
I would agree with the recommendations of Kodak D-76 or Ilford ID-11. They have the same or similar formulas, have been around forever, and are the standard by which others are judged. Both of these developers are powders. You might want to consider Ilfotec DD-X if you would prefer to work with a liquid.
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Nov 2, 2020 22:05:34 #
Richard West
Loc: Finger Lakes Region in upstate NY
D-72 was used as a paper (print) developer. D-76 was a film developer.
Nov 2, 2020 22:06:22 #
Thanks again everyone! I ordered D-76 because I'm familiar with it. So after all the chemicals arrive next week, I'll crank up the old darkroom again.
Nov 2, 2020 22:21:49 #
Ourspolair wrote:
D72 would probably work on all of them T-max and Tri-x 400 are essentially the same. Ilford FP-4 has a similar formulation. Stop bath and fixers are not critical. Everything is time and temperature - dependant (but you know that anyway). Have fun but beware, if they have not been kept in a temperature -controlled environment you may get some really unpredictable results.
D-72 is a very old paper developer formula. Kodak quit making it a loooong time ago.
Nov 2, 2020 22:23:15 #
Blues Dude wrote:
I was going through some old boxes and found 6 rolls of undeveloped B&W film: 4 Ilford FP4, 1 Kodak Tmax 400 and 1 Kodak Tri-X 400. I still have my old film developing gear, but it's been decades since I last processed any film. Is there one developer, stop bath and fixer that I can use on all these films? Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Here’s the mother lode:
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?web
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Nov 3, 2020 00:19:28 #
nimbushopper wrote:
I think you meant D76!
You are right! D72 was the print developer. Well, it was 40 years ago... I replenished the D76 and exposed developed the Tri-x at 320 320 ASA...
Thanks for putting me straight.
Nov 3, 2020 00:34:57 #
If you have the chemicals, you can make your own D-76 and D-72. Also color slide chemicals. E-3 works for E-4, etc. (I've done it all!)
Nov 3, 2020 08:41:52 #
"...Nice! I love the richness of this photo. Nothing like film..." thank you for your very kind words spaceytracey and I love your epic kitty cat avatar spaceytracey.
Yes I miss the magic of the darkroom and the joy latent in mastering the total workflow from spooling the film to dry mounting the prints... it sad that so many current photographers never have benefited from developing and printing their own artistry, albeit post processing today has risen to a height where current masterworks are primarily the result of digital manipulation... however all is good, the lion's share of the commercial market place has now migrated to video thanks to the ubiquitous presence of stellar high definition video in today's cameras...
All the best on your journey spaceytracey
Yes I miss the magic of the darkroom and the joy latent in mastering the total workflow from spooling the film to dry mounting the prints... it sad that so many current photographers never have benefited from developing and printing their own artistry, albeit post processing today has risen to a height where current masterworks are primarily the result of digital manipulation... however all is good, the lion's share of the commercial market place has now migrated to video thanks to the ubiquitous presence of stellar high definition video in today's cameras...
All the best on your journey spaceytracey
Nov 6, 2020 14:02:17 #
morethancaffenol
Loc: Buffalo, NY
Yes, I'm sure the previous posting meant D76. D72 is the closest published formula to Dektol. Times, temps, solutions all the same.
Charlie
Charlie
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