Cary912 Loc: Colorado

What setting should be used for nighttime football games (no flash) Have a canon 80D

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

What lens are you using?

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

Specific settings are determined by the amount of available light. The intensity of the light can vary from location to location, so they can not be set in advanced. Generally you will need a shutter speed around 1/250 to 1/500 to eliminate subject blur and an aperture around f/2.8 to f/4 to give you some DoF. You can adjust the ISO to allow you to get good exposure in those ranges.

Cary912 Loc: Colorado

135 f2

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

If you want the very artistic images this lens can create, shoot wide open at f/2 and shutterspeeds between 1/500 and 1/1000 sec. We (you) won't know the lighting situation until you're there under the lights. Balance the ISO against how fast / slow you need to shoot for the conditions. If possible keep the ISO at / under ISO-1000. For an EOS 80D, try to expose to the right of the 0-mark on the meter, between +0.3 and +1.

So in Manual mode, you'd set the aperture and shutter and then move the ISO until the meter registers say +0.7 to the right. Double-check a few images and make sure nothing important is blinking as overexposed.

You might find it easier to work in shutter priority and use your EC (Exposure Compensation) to 'fix' the meter to +0.7 and set the ISO to AUTO-ISO. See what the camera "thinks" of the situation and adjust the shutterspeed faster (or slower) based on the light and the ISO the camera selects. If outdoors in a situation the light changes and gets darker over time, you can just slow the shutter as things get darker. ISO-1000 isn't hard & fast, go higher after exhausting the aperture at f/2 and the shutter at 1/500sec.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

Scott Kelby suggests shooting in Shutter Priority mode set at 1/1000 with the highest native ISO you have and let the camera choose the aperture. According to him, the fast shutter speed captures the action. I've also read that you can choose Auto ISO in SP mode.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

1. Call athletic director for school and ask permission to shoot from the sidelines.
2. Take your Canon 80 D to the stadium.
3. Arrive early, before game but under the same lighting conditions as the game. Practice exposures of players doing warm ups, check exposures in your camera to make sure you are getting correct exposures. I would suggest Aperture Priority wide open or maybe one stop down, adjust your ISO to try to get to a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 sec. or even higher. Once you get the exposure the way you want it, you can go to manual and keep the settings you used for your initial good exposure as most lighting will stay the same throughout the stadium. A focal length of 200 mm minimum, 400 would be better.
Make sure your about 20-40 yards down field of the offense coming at you, so you can get roll outs and running backs coming through the line. A mono pod would be nice if your camera is heavy. Make sure you are out of the way of players and couches on the sidelines. Also keep away from the refs and chain gang. I would avoid taking photo's of cheerleaders, line dancers or any females.
When the action gets close to the goal line get behind the end line of the end zone so you can get shots of backs making touchdowns and post touchdown antics.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

"What setting should be used for nighttime football games (no flash) Have a canon 80D"

By now you have been given very good hints on what to do when ready to shoot the football game. Several of the members of this forum have mentioned that it is impossible to make any recommendations without knowing the level of light available. The recommendations by Billnikon are right on. Many photographers use AUTO ISO for action photography but I am not one of them although action photography is not my favorite. Shutter priority is important because you are making sure that you will stop action with it. Some images with a slow shutter speed are different and many times very effective. I guess the No. 3 recommendation by Billnikon should be your best guide.

Good luck.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

One more thing.

When shooting under stadium lights... Go into your 80D's menu and enable "Anti-Flicker" or "Flicker Reduction".

Much lighting used in arenas and stadiums cycles on and off very rapidly.... 60 times per second. We don't see it with our eyes, but our cameras sure do! It causes A LOT of exposure problems, ESPECIALLY when using faster shutter speeds to freeze sports action. (One solution to the exposure problem is to use a slow shutter speed.... say 1/30 or so.... which will encompass a full cycle of the lights. But this doesn't work for sports! It's way too slow a shutter speed to freeze sports action.)

The problem is that when the lights cycle on and off their output varies wildly, so the exposure required one fraction of a second is very different another fraction of a second later or earlier. Without some sort of compensation, you will find a huge number of your images poorly exposed.... very possibly half or more will be under-exposed, probably a lot of them unrecoverable. (Note: Shooting RAW also helps, because it allows larger post-processing adjustments than shooting JPEGs will... But, of course, shooting RAW also means more work for you, since post-processing will be necessary.)

Canon's Anti-Flicker/Flicker Reduction feature is great! I've been using it for years with my 7D Mark II, which were the first Canon to have it. (It's the same feature, but called different things depending upon camera model... I'm not sure if it's Anti-Flicker or Flicker Reduction in 80D.)

With my cameras' Anti-Flicker enabled I see very few... almost none.... exposure problems, even when shooting in the same venues under the same lights where I used to see 1/2 or more images strongly effected when using earlier cameras that didn't have this feature (all I could do was take lots of extra shots and shoot RAW, since I knew many shots would be spoiled and others would require a lot of adjustment).

The way Anti-Flicker works is the camera detects the on/off cycle of the lights (fluorescent, sodium vapor, etc.). Then it times the release of the shutter to coincide with the peak output of the lighting. It works! But I was worried it might cause delays in the shutter release that might effect timing of my shots. Yes, every once in a while I notice a slight lag... but most of the time it's imperceptible and I can't say I've missed more than a few shots due to a delay. It's well worth the trade-off, to get a much, much higher percentage of shots properly exposed.

Besides under-exposure, another thing that happens with the light cycling is that the color of light changes... this effects white balance, causing ugly tints in the under-exposed images. Anti-Flicker helps with this too... but I also advise you set a Custom White Balance under the lights where you'll be shooting. Unless the color of the lighting appears to vary from one part of the stadium to another and you need to shoot both, Custom WB will probably work better than Auto WB. (Again, shooting RAW also can help, because it's very easy to correct WB issues with RAW, much more difficult to do so with JPEGs.)

The Anti-Flicker feature has been added to almost all Canon DSLRs and mirrorless released since the 7DII in 2014. The only recent Canon models I know don't have it are the most-entry level Rebel T7/1500D/2000D and 4000D.

I know Nikon has added this feature to a number of their cameras too, beginning with the D500 and D850. The Nikon configuration is slightly different. Canon's is simply enabled or disabled... the camera figures everything else out for you. Nikon's has four possible settings: disabled, 50hz, 60hz or auto. In the US and some other parts of the world, enable the Nikon feature using either 60hz or auto detection. In Europe and many other parts of the world, use 50hz or auto, because the cycling of the light is slightly different.

I don't know about other camera manufacturers.

A final note: This Anti-Flicker feature is related to exposure/white balance under various types of lighting that cycles in this manner. There are other flicker reduction features related to video and electronic viewfinders. Don't confuse them. They serve different purposes. A camera might have video flicker reduction, but not have the feature for still photos.

BTW: Personally I've tended to use Aperture Priority Auto Exposure mode (Av on an 80D and other Canon) for sports shooting. Actually I'd prefer to use fully manual (M) and use it when I can. That really locks things down. But very often M is just not possible because I have to rapidly shoot subjects under variations in lighting and certainly don't have time to dial in changes between shots. A lot of sports shooters prefer to use Shutter Priority AE (Tv on 80D and other Canon) to insure they have sufficient shutter speed to freeze the action. I have to keep a close eye that my shutter speeds don't drop too low, but prefer to control the "look" of the image with background blur versus sharpness, etc., by adjusting the aperture. That's #1 priority to me, with shutter speed and the freezing of action a close #2 priority.

However, now using cameras with a well implemented Auto ISO system, more and more I've been using M with Auto ISO. Best of both worlds... It gives me auto exposure, plus I can set aperture and shutter, while letting the ISO vary as needed. This is another form of auto exposure. The only difference (glitch?) is that Exposure Compensation is handled differently. When I used Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority AE, there is direct access to Exposure Compensation on my cameras. I can quickly dial in any that's needed. But with M + Auto ISO, the dial that is used for E.C. in the other modes is now being used either to adjust the shutter or the aperture. That dial is not available for E.C. So to set it I while using this particular AE mode, I have to go into the menu. That's not difficult on Canon with the "Q" screen ("quick" screen). It's just not as fast as using the dial when shooting in Av or Tv (with Auto ISO off... I only use it with M).

double g Loc: Oklahoma

I shoot HS football for a newspaper. I shoot the following set up and it works for me: ISO on auto, 1/1250, 2.8. I shoot a 5d, but I used this setup when I was shooting an 80d. My lens is a Tamron 70-200 mm at 2.8.