When photographers like or dislike any particular PRESET type portrait retouching stand-alone or plug-in software , it is usually because waht the SOFTWARE decides to do with any given subject. The programs I have tried out and decided to use routinely in my studio are the ones with many sliders that enable the operator to modify and control each kind of correction. There is however a caveat, the operator should have a good understanding of facial structure as well as the basic principles of portrait retouching.
I'll explain. Basic skin softening and removal of blemishes is easy enough, a simple healing tool can do that and the degree of softening is just a matter of taste or the client's requirements. When, however, you begin to alter facial structures, change the appearance of the eyes, reshape the mouth, whiten eyes and teeth, slim down a face, or remove detail for the orbital areas of the face (under the eyes), you gotta really know what you are doing. Portrait retouching is an artform, skill and talent in an of to itself. Nowadays, in digital retouching, you don't need as much manual skill as in the old method with pencils, dyes and etching knives, but you still need insight into facial structure and lighting.
So...I am not what I would call an expert master retoucher but as a portrait photographer, I wanted to learn as much as I can to maximize my knowledge, enable myself to do some basic retouching, and be able to communicate and direct retouchers that work in my studio. I took in several seminars given by well-respected master retouchers and although their styles, tastes and techniques varied, there was one important principle that they all agreed upon, that is you have to know WHAT to retouch WHAT NOT to retouch, and WEHN TO STOP RETOUCHING. Basically, if you remove certain lines, natural contours, and indentations on the face, the results will resemble a mask, If you seriously over-retouch a face you will end up with what they jokingly called "an embalming job"!
If you want to work "freehand" with frequency separation, other than simple blemish removal, besides the low and high frequency and layers techniques, you better understand facial structures and norms, otherwise, you are better off with the preset programmes and just learn-to control the sliders to your taste and/or the client's expectations. My full-time in-house retoucher has her own ways and uses frequency separation. Me- I am a big fan of Portrait-Pro but there there are also caveats which I will explain.
If you are the photographer AND the retoucher you have full control over how you light, pose and shoot each subject so you can create files that do not require radical or complex retouching techniques and make certain decisions, at the camera, to decide whether you are going to remedy a problem on the shoot or in retouching and make the best compromises. For example- let's say the subject has a serious double chin or jowls around the chin-jaw area. A slightly higher camera position and higher lighting ratio and more shadow around that area might solve the issue. Suppose, however, the subject also has a very long nose that will intersect with an upper lip at a high angle- you can't shorten the nose effectively in retouching but a lower camera position will fix that so you religate the chin/jaw issue to retouching. There are many other facial charismatics such as asymmetrical facial structures, uneven eye sizes, rough skin and much more that can be addressed in shooting lighting and just tweaked in post-processing and retouching.
The job is to NOT make the subject unrecognizable or perform radical "plastic surgery" but rather to deemphasize certain aspects of the face and body that the subject my consider undesirable or distracting.
There are subjets and times when NO retouchg is required or when everyoneagrees that "just let it all hang out"! There is nothiing wrong woth a detailed portraot study with all the "warts", however, I am in the BUSIBNESS of portait photography and that is not always up to me. Most folks don't mind a little beautification and some demand allot!