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Nikon Flash Off Camera
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Sep 16, 2020 15:52:33   #
uhaas2009
 
The pop up flash can be used as trigger for your 910. Under flash settings in camera you look for CMD where you set channel and output.
The pop up flash will flash but it’s so low you can’t see it in your pics

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Sep 16, 2020 17:22:52   #
Nicholas J DeSciose
 
Your equipment is top notch. Do you have a good flash and a good camera. Read the instructions several times. Go onto Google look at tutorials. And then practice practice practice then experiment experiment experiment

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Sep 16, 2020 19:26:48   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
joehel2 wrote:
I just acquired a Nikon SB-910. I have no flash experience with my Nikon cameras. If I want the flash to fire when it is off of the hot shoe, do I need some type of camera mounted controller? I will use The flash with a D810 and D850. I’m not anticipating heavy use, if there is a less expensive option, it will do for me. Thanks for helping.


You can use your on camera flash to fire it. Nikon has an inexpensive cover do the on-camera flash doesn’t affect exposure.

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Sep 16, 2020 19:29:50   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
tcthome wrote:
No pop up flash on the D850. I do not own one so can’t say it doesn’t have a command mode. But the d850 manual tell him if does.


Oh. Pretty sure my D800 had one. My Z6 does not. But pretty sure I could use one of my cheap flashes for same effect with my SB700. Something to play with.

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Sep 16, 2020 19:31:14   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
tcthome wrote:
No pop up flash on the D850. I do not own one so can’t say it doesn’t have a command mode. But the d850 manual tell him if does.


You don’t need command mode for a single off camera flash. My D5600 does fine with my SB700.

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Sep 16, 2020 20:23:25   #
Sycamore Hank Loc: Northern CA
 
CO wrote:
The built-in flash can influence the exposure. Nikon has this panel that's for using the camera's built-in flash.


Thanks, great tip. Bought one today.

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Sep 16, 2020 21:43:03   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
To the OP and others:

Where are you gonna place that off-camera flash, how are you going to expose, and establish a lighting ratio?

There are many ways to remotely trigger any flash unit- Speedlight or otherwise. There are may simpe methods- a photoelectric cell responding to an on-camera flash (built-in or otherwise) and may moderately be priced and more expensive complex radio and IR accessories, and of course, in-camera command units if your camera features that mode. There are somethings for every application and budget.

Before however, you purchase anything, you need to consider the application as well as the method of exposure and contrast control and usage, As soon as you take the light source off the camer you are dealing with highlights and shadows as well as the depth of lighting. If, as an example, you were to place your single Speedlight at 45 degrees to the subject, there may be significant areas of shadow that may require fill light to both capture the mood or key of the shot and remain within the dynamic range of the camera. If the light on the camera is stronger than the off-camera light it may flatten out the lighting and defeat the purpose of off-camera lighting. If it is too weak and used just as a trigger mechanism, the shadows may lack any detail.

The difference between the main (off-camera) ligh and the (on-camera) fill in ligh is expressed in a ratio. If you base the exposure on the off-camera light, the fill ligh needs to be somewhat below that effective power- based on powe output and distance.

Of you mention what kind of work you intend doing with you off-camera flash, I can suggest a few setups.
To the OP and others: br br Where are you gonna p... (show quote)


That is great advice but I’m not sure they grocked it.

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Sep 17, 2020 10:13:00   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
JD750 wrote:
That is great advice but I’m not sure they grocked it.


Well, some folks will "get it" some folks will not and others will ignore my post. All I can do is put it out there and people can take it for what it is worth.

There are many discussions, on this forum, about every kind of gear and sometimes it seems that some folks will assume that the gear in an of itself does solves an issue or addresses a requirement or it is appropriate for the usage they need it for. Oftentimes they expereince dissapointment becasue they don't as yet know exactly how to use it or apply it.

I do allot of industrial photograhy in very large and dark places. Some years aho I purchased a set of Pocket Wizard radio triggers. To test them out, I placed a flash in my studio's window and took the transmitter out on the street- it triggered faultlessly from 3 city blocks away. They work perfectly in places with steel walls and from one floor of a buildg to another, Great!- but waht about exposure, ratio and placement of the lights?

I also use multiple flash for portraiture and event coverage- but one must have a method. Even in a simple setup for let's say portraits- you place a Speedlight at 3 feet away from the subject and arrive at say f/11- so you trigger it with youy pop-up flash- what is the output of that little unit? If, for instance, it puts out enough light to give you f/16, you obliterate the effect of the off-camer light- if it only pust out say f/4 you may have a too contrasty ratio. This is just an example of why it is necessary to balance the lights in a multiple lightning setup.

If you have a camera with a sophisticated commad system and at least a couple of matched lights, it is possibe that the camera's TTL system will make the calculations for you or you can take control of the system and make the necessary adjustments. If not, you need to do this manually, know the output of each light, know how to increase or attenuate the fill light either electronically by adjusting its output or by bouncing or difussing it. Perhaps a flash meter is in order.

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Sep 17, 2020 13:05:41   #
cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA
 
GoofyNewfie wrote:
Not built-in.

The Nikon SU-800 is a pretty powerful IR commander unit.
I used one for quite a while before I went to radio.
It worked pretty reliably, even in full sun, so long as the receiver on the flash could see the signal.


The Debao SU-800 is still for sale for $77 HERE.
Head rotates. More powerful.
I know nothing of it's reliability.

One could just get another Nikon flash that has commander mode like the SB-700, 800, 900/910

For less money, a Godox transmitter and receiver and more versatile.
I had a set for sale up until a few days ago.
Still have the transmitter- would need to get a receiver.
Not built-in. br br The url=https://www.bhphotov... (show quote)


Personally, I am using the Nikon SB500 (I own four units) with the Wireless system at the moment. It would be nice if Nikon would build that transmitter into future bodies, We shall see! Best of luck.

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Sep 17, 2020 14:40:49   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Well, some folks will "get it" some folks will not and others will ignore my post. All I can do is put it out there and people can take it for what it is worth.

There are many discussions, on this forum, about every kind of gear and sometimes it seems that some folks will assume that the gear in an of itself does solves an issue or addresses a requirement or it is appropriate for the usage they need it for. Oftentimes they expereince dissapointment becasue they don't as yet know exactly how to use it or apply it.

I do allot of industrial photograhy in very large and dark places. Some years aho I purchased a set of Pocket Wizard radio triggers. To test them out, I placed a flash in my studio's window and took the transmitter out on the street- it triggered faultlessly from 3 city blocks away. They work perfectly in places with steel walls and from one floor of a buildg to another, Great!- but waht about exposure, ratio and placement of the lights?

I also use multiple flash for portraiture and event coverage- but one must have a method. Even in a simple setup for let's say portraits- you place a Speedlight at 3 feet away from the subject and arrive at say f/11- so you trigger it with youy pop-up flash- what is the output of that little unit? If, for instance, it puts out enough light to give you f/16, you obliterate the effect of the off-camer light- if it only pust out say f/4 you may have a too contrasty ratio. This is just an example of why it is necessary to balance the lights in a multiple lightning setup.

If you have a camera with a sophisticated commad system and at least a couple of matched lights, it is possibe that the camera's TTL system will make the calculations for you or you can take control of the system and make the necessary adjustments. If not, you need to do this manually, know the output of each light, know how to increase or attenuate the fill light either electronically by adjusting its output or by bouncing or difussing it. Perhaps a flash meter is in order.
Well, some folks will "get it" some folk... (show quote)


:) Great tips! And great attitude too. Thanks for both.

Nikon CLS, in theory, allows you to adjust the output power of two (or three) groups of flashes. Adjust from the camera. So you don’t have to walk.

I think for this topic they are focused on how to get the remote flash unit to generate light. They haven’t thought yet about the bigger problem of how to adjust and shape that light.

One disadvantage of the on-camera optical flash trigger. Even when set low, that little bugger will get in the photograph if there is a reflective surface anywhere in the frame.

Radio triggers seem like the obvious solution. Not sure why some of the manufactures (Nikon, others?) have been so slow in offering in-camera radio trigger systems.

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Sep 17, 2020 15:55:40   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
cjc2 wrote:
Personally, I am using the Nikon SB500 (I own four units) with the Wireless system at the moment. It would be nice if Nikon would build that transmitter into future bodies, We shall see! Best of luck.


Absolutely agree! Doesn’t seem like too much to ask, at least in the higher end bodies.

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Sep 17, 2020 22:22:30   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
JD750 wrote:
:) Great tips! And a great attitude too. Thanks for both.

Nikon CLS, in theory, allows you to adjust the output power of two (or three) groups of flashes. Adjust from the camera. So you don’t have to walk.

I think for this topic they are focused on how to get the remote flash unit to generate light. They haven’t thought yet about the bigger problem of how to adjust and shape that light.

One disadvantage of the on-camera optical flash trigger. Even when set low, that little bugger will get in the photograph if there is a reflective surface anywhere in the frame.

Radio triggers seem like the obvious solution. Not sure why some of the manufactures (Nikon, others?) have been so slow in offering in-camera radio trigger systems.
:) Great tips! And a great attitude too. Thanks fo... (show quote)


It's difficult for me to opine on in-camera flash command systems because I have never employed that particular technology. I have used multiple flash in-studio, on location, and even on the hand-held event and press coverage work and have always set my exposure manually. I gotta "walk" because oftentimes precise placement, slight movements, and feathering are required to attain the effect I need.

OK, I'll admit, it would be a heck of a lot more convenient to be able to adjust the output of a remote light without climbing a stepladder or walking back and forth in a large venue but most of the adjustments have to be made hands-on. All I want out of my radios is reliable triggering and perfect synchronization.

If the radio transmitter was built into the camera, it might not be compatible with various lighting gear made by other manufacturers. That could also be problematic if the radio also had to carry exposure data.
I suppose nowadays someof the moonlight manufacturers are building in camer-compatible exposure control receivers in their units. A few years ago Speedotron began building Pocket-Wizard or Quontom compatible receivers in the power packs but just for triggering. You had to buy transmitters.

Sometimes there is just too muc technology and figuring it all out and getting it to work is more difficult than doing everything manually.

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Sep 17, 2020 23:27:55   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
It's difficult for me to opine on in-camera flash command systems because I have never employed that particular technology. I have used multiple flash in-studio, on location, and even on the hand-held event and press coverage work and have always set my exposure manually. I gotta "walk" because oftentimes precise placement, slight movements, and feathering are required to attain the effect I need.

OK, I'll admit, it would be a heck of a lot more convenient to be able to adjust the output of a remote light without climbing a stepladder or walking back and forth in a large venue but most of the adjustments have to be made hands-on. All I want out of my radios is reliable triggering and perfect synchronization.

If the radio transmitter was built into the camera, it might not be compatible with various lighting gear made by other manufacturers. That could also be problematic if the radio also had to carry exposure data.
I suppose nowadays someof the moonlight manufacturers are building in camer-compatible exposure control receivers in their units. A few years ago Speedotron began building Pocket-Wizard or Quontom compatible receivers in the power packs but just for triggering. You had to buy transmitters.

Sometimes there is just too muc technology and figuring it all out and getting it to work is more difficult than doing everything manually.
It's difficult for me to opine on in-camera flash ... (show quote)

There is a learning curve- it’s almost always the interface/menu system of the transceivers. Once you get it, it’s awesome. The Godox Pro transmitters have a feature that lets you shoot in TTL, then it remembers the output of all the lights and will set them to manual. (I haven’t used that yet, as I’m old school too) This is especially useful with lights that you need a ladder to access. I don’t like ladders anymore with my knees!

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