#1. I cheated, I used the reverse print paper made for doing color prints from slides.

#2. Another method I tried was use the negative but 4x5/8x10 sheet film instead of printer paper, then do a print from the sheet film which being a negative of a negative (positive) produced a negative print.

#3. And a technique I and some of my students worked on the one year I taught basic photography (renamed "History and Practice of Photography" so I could teach it on my history/geography credential) was to process B&W negative film to produce a positive image. I don't remember the name but Kodak etc had chemical sets with directions for how to do that. When mounted as slides and projected those B&W slides had a tonal range that made color slides look flat. When used as a negative it of course produced a negative print just like the sheet film in method #2. You could also use B&W 35 mm movie film but the smallest rolls I could get were 100' and that would have blown the class budget. Though I bought some for myself as I had the reusable cartridges and bulk film loading gear. For one thing I found I could load 42 frames in a cartridge and didn't have to load a new roll so often. I had one camera with a "power winder" - poor man's version of a "motor drive" used by pro sports photographers - only about 3 frames a second. Now a 35 mm with motor drive and modified to use 50' or 100' foot rolls of 35 mm movie film gave you a real arm, hand and shoulder strength work out if you used one for more than a few minutes. I got to hold one once and just could not see hauling that monster around, even if I could have afforded one.

And another fun thing I tried was using color slides as negatives and printing on color print paper - a color negative print. The appeal lasted for one 50 sheet box of 8x10 paper.

It was fun projecting images on 10x8 film - I used to put aluminium foil behind the resultant image (matte side towards the emulsion) and frame them! I guess you could inkjet or laser print on transparency film these days from a digital original... (oh no, something else to put on my Covid to-do list!) Using paper negatives also gave really interesting results because of the grain in the paper. Contact printing from the original negative on a normal negative film would produce a positive image which you could then project to make a negative print with the same image density as the original... manipulating the film and aligning it correctly without "fogging" the film could be an issue. AS someone mentioned already, the contact should be emulsion side to emulsion side , which meant that when projecting from the "positive" you would have to reverse it in the projector so that the emulsion side faced the light source. Fun and games!