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Nearly a good idea
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Aug 12, 2020 22:45:21   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Grahame wrote:
Partially off topic, yesterday I was lucky enough to have a large 2 inch long hairy moth fast asleep that I was able to stage in a scene indoors in a reasonably lit room. Gee, what a subject for playing with tripod and lens and proving outright that anything I produced 'less' sharp with the lens when used in the future would be totally due to my method.



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Aug 12, 2020 22:57:27   #
JD750 Loc: SoCal
 
Honestly from what you describe I don't think you will be happy adjusting focus. But please don't just listen to my opinion, here are some questions for you to think about maybe they will help you decide: (1) Can you consistently get better results with manual focus? (2) Have you identified a bias in focus? For example does the lens usually focus close, or usually focus far? Or is it just random? Is the softness associated with being wide open or does it happen at all apertures. Does lighting make a difference, such as bright light sunny day, vs overcast? Is a certain part of the frame always soft, edges? where other parts are in focus? Center?

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Aug 13, 2020 07:58:46   #
cactuspic Loc: Dallas, TX
 
Looking at you images, quixdraw, I don’t think the problem is front or back focus. If you go to the areas that seem to be be in sharpest focus ( where the area in front and in back of it begin to blur more) that area is plainly not sharp, as TriX said above. There are several potential answers and a simple test to tell which one it is. Possible answers:

1 The lens is a gobbling turkey;
2 You are seeking to enlarge too tiny a portion of the frame
3 the combination of long focal length, slower shutter speed and enlargement make handholding a problem;
4 The lens was used wide open and is not sharp at that aperture.

There is a simple test for a calm day. Tape a test target (a magazine page with several sized fonts for example) to a shaded side window of your car or house.. Blue painters tape should not leave any residue. Tripod mount your camera and lens at a suitable distance. Stop down two stops from maximum aperture. Open live view and use a magnified view to manually focus and note the letter and word you are focusing on. Use a remote trigger. If the image is not acceptably sharp at the point of focus, then you have a gobbler

Irwin

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Aug 13, 2020 08:15:58   #
joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois
 
quixdraw wrote:
Several years ago I picked up a used AF VR Nikkor 80-400 4.5 5.6D. Got enough of a deal, that based on an influential review, and in the face of some expert advice against, I bought it. Was supposed to be a problem solver, small enough with reasonable reach. From the beginning, it wasn't, because I'm all in on sharpness. Sometimes I would achieve very acceptable results (probably Luck & perfect conditions), others, just a bit fuzzy. Been on my To Do list - fix or unload. A bit overcast this afternoon, but had time so put it on the D750 and walked outside to wring it out a bit. The only bird I saw was one of my resident Flycatchers #1 - low end acceptable. Then a beat up butterfly #2-4 - I had half again as many outtakes as usual, but considering the overcast, low end, nearly o.k. . Finally, a little bee wrestling, #5. My question - I have not had to adjust AF on a Nikon lens, seems like a bit of a PITA. Based on lens tuning you have experienced, Do you think the process might improve sharpness enough to make the lens a keeper?
Several years ago I picked up a used AF VR Nikkor ... (show quote)


I have tried to calibrate Nikon and third party lenses and never have been successful. I eventually gave up thinking the process was created as a placebo to occupy pixel peeper in order keep them out of the warranty process.

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Aug 13, 2020 08:55:58   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
cactuspic wrote:
Looking at you images, quixdraw, I don’t think the problem is front or back focus. If you go to the areas that seem to be be in sharpest focus ( where the area in front and in back of it begin to blur more) that area is plainly not sharp, as TriX said above. There are several potential answers and a simple test to tell which one it is. Possible answers:

1 The lens is a gobbling turkey;
2 You are seeking to enlarge too tiny a portion of the frame
3 the combination of long focal length, slower shutter speed and enlargement make handholding a problem;
4 The lens was used wide open and is not sharp at that aperture.

There is a simple test for a calm day. Tape a test target (a magazine page with several sized fonts for example) to a shaded side window of your car or house.. Blue painters tape should not leave any residue. Tripod mount your camera and lens at a suitable distance. Stop down two stops from maximum aperture. Open live view and use a magnified view to manually focus and note the letter and word you are focusing on. Use a remote trigger. If the image is not acceptably sharp at the point of focus, then you have a gobbler

Irwin
Looking at you images, quixdraw, I don’t think the... (show quote)


Thanks for your input. Except at extremes, hand holding has never been a problem with many other lenses. I'll probably run a test. Actually I focused on the lable on the back of a stored show plow blade at around 50 yards with my 200-500 yesterday - razor sharp.

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Aug 13, 2020 09:02:51   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
joer wrote:
I have tried to calibrate Nikon and third party lenses and never have been successful. I eventually gave up thinking the process was created as a placebo to occupy pixel peeper in order keep them out of the warranty process.


Thanks, down all the decades with pre-digital Nikon lenses, all worked perfectly, as have most of the digital ones. It is only relatively recently that fine tuning has been discussed. I certainly don't consider myself a pixel peeper, and I know your comment was not intended that way, factually, I prefer never to see them. I will give the lens one last try, since the size and focal length range are so appealing. I am not likely to buy newer more expensive equivalents, mostly I can do what I want with what I have now. Thanks again!

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Aug 13, 2020 09:26:12   #
Al Beatty Loc: Boise, Idaho
 
Hi QD,
The way I check if a lens on my D750 is "tuned" is to put a stake in a newly mown lawn, shoot a picture of the stake from about 45 degrees, and see where the grass is in focus in relation to the stake. It's not a fancy "focus checker" but has served me well for a number of years. Take care & ...

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Aug 13, 2020 09:28:00   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
Grahame wrote:
I would not use the images you have posted for me to make any judgement on your lens performance with respect to 'sharpness'/'possible AF tuning'. They are too small, we have no idea where you 'actually' focused, whether they have been cropped or the speed/aperture/ISO you used.

I have the 80-400 and found I had to AF fine tune significantly 'only' for when used with a 1.4TX at 400mm because I needed to shoot specific subjects at max aperture. But that is likely only specific to my own lens.

With respect to perceived sharpness I wonder how you 'measure' this? For myself, I expect my lenses to produce stunning sharp animal hair when the image is un-cropped, sized at 1920 px wide and viewed on my monitor.

If I were you I would find a static 'hairy subject', put your lens on tripod with timed release and firstly confirm that it can produce 'sharp' results that you are happy with using your own measurement method.

If you find that the lens can produce consistent acceptable results then for anything not acceptable there has to be a reason, or a combination of reasons.

The next thing to do if it does produce acceptable sharpness is to check that the plane of acceptable sharpness is where you expect it to be.
I would not use the images you have posted for me ... (show quote)


I agree that without including the download it’s impossible to judge sharpness. I also agree with the poster that mentioned live view.

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Aug 13, 2020 09:35:12   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Al Beatty wrote:
Hi QD,
The way I check if a lens on my D750 is "tuned" is to put a stake in a newly mown lawn, shoot a picture of the stake from about 45 degrees, and see where the grass is in focus in relation to the stake. It's not a fancy "focus checker" but has served me well for a number of years. Take care & ...


Thanks - a practical sounding, common sense method!

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Aug 13, 2020 09:37:11   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
SuperflyTNT wrote:
I agree that without including the download it’s impossible to judge sharpness. I also agree with the poster that mentioned live view.


Thanks - I will try it, but almost never resort to live view. Too many years of viewfinders plus a couple of years having to use a viewfinderless camera on the job - ugh.

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Aug 13, 2020 09:44:14   #
Earnest Botello Loc: Hockley, Texas
 
Very acceptable set, Quix, I think the lens is a keeper.

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Aug 13, 2020 10:08:23   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Earnest Botello wrote:
Very acceptable set, Quix, I think the lens is a keeper.


Suppose I expect too much, even but my old Nikon 75-300 will beat it hands down for sharpness. I'll fool around with it some more. Thanks for commenting, much appreciated.

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Aug 13, 2020 10:31:39   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
quixdraw wrote:
Several years ago I picked up a used AF VR Nikkor 80-400 4.5 5.6D. Got enough of a deal, that based on an influential review, and in the face of some expert advice against, I bought it. Was supposed to be a problem solver, small enough with reasonable reach. From the beginning, it wasn't, because I'm all in on sharpness. Sometimes I would achieve very acceptable results (probably Luck & perfect conditions), others, just a bit fuzzy. Been on my To Do list - fix or unload. A bit overcast this afternoon, but had time so put it on the D750 and walked outside to wring it out a bit. The only bird I saw was one of my resident Flycatchers #1 - low end acceptable. Then a beat up butterfly #2-4 - I had half again as many outtakes as usual, but considering the overcast, low end, nearly o.k. . Finally, a little bee wrestling, #5. My question - I have not had to adjust AF on a Nikon lens, seems like a bit of a PITA. Based on lens tuning you have experienced, Do you think the process might improve sharpness enough to make the lens a keeper?
Several years ago I picked up a used AF VR Nikkor ... (show quote)


A nice set but all seem soft.

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Aug 13, 2020 10:35:35   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Sinewsworn wrote:
A nice set but all seem soft.


Thanks, to me as well - and these were the sharpest of 18, all shot at the purported sweet spot F stop.

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Aug 13, 2020 10:48:50   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
quixdraw wrote:
Thanks, to me as well - and these were the sharpest of 18, all shot at the purported sweet spot F stop.


I have the 28-300. It always seems soft, too. Great for video though.

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