imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

I DID read the OP - my loose interpretation makes it go EITHER way - but I am not here to argue the point with you.......

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Correct. Low light capability is completely within the camera - sensor size, design, pixel density, photosite size, dynamic range, camera electronic-contributed noise, etc etc etc. And unlike one person who believes that low light mostly refers to point and shoot cameras (pure nonsense), a camera's low light capability is a factor for all cameras.

jayluber Loc: Phoenix, AZ

HAs a lot to do with pixel size. Generally, on same size sensor - the 20MP will be better in low light than the 45MP cameras. The larger pixels are just better in low light. That's why the new mega pix cameras (45, 72, etc) do not do so well in dark light.

And its very difficult to use flash to illuminate outdoor landscapes and MW photos.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

LOL .... yes, all this is TRUE except for point and shoots - like the Sony RX10 series where the LENS is a factor because it is not interchangeable - but not the only factor....which is NOT "pure nonsense" I have qualified my statements and stand by them - READ them

Low light does not mostly refer to P&S - but MOST reviewers when they speak of "Low light abilities of CAMERAS" are referring to P&S - otherwise they would say the model BODY of a interchangeable camera or just say sensor. I am not here to argue with YOU either ! but, I will if you make me
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gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

I didn’t say it solves all the problems.

Blair Shaw Jr Loc: Dunnellon,Florida

AMEN>>>AMUNDO !

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

I have an RX10MIV and its f/2.4-4 lens is about as fast as it gets on a fixed lens camera. It’s a great camera, but the 1” sensor means that just about anything I shoot over ISO 800 needs to run through Topaz Denoise AI.

hpucker99 Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

A flash is not much use when photographing the Perseids meteor shower or the recent Neowise comet....

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

I have another reason for wanting a good "low light" camera. Camera shake. The better low light performance the higher the shutter speed, as a result of a higher ISO will illiminate camera shake problems

eadler

Much depends on the lens An f.stop to say 1.4 will allow better low light performance. The other factor is a camera with high ISO capability.

jayluber Loc: Phoenix, AZ

I had a camera shake the other day. Prefer chocolate or really... black and white.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

RX10 is a bridge camera, not a point and shoot. Unless you are using a very broad interpretation, then all cameras are point and shoots - since all cameras must be pointed at something before you shoot it. Same goes for firearms . . .

The RX10 provides good moderately high ISO images - I've gotten great results at ISO 1600 and good results at 3200 and 6400. Pretty amazing for such a tiny sensor, but I wouldn't go around calling it a good low light camera. It's performance at 6400 is about on par with what a D5 can do at 51,200 and a D300 at ISO 1600.

A lens with a large aperture, while contributing to low light performance only because it can let in more light, doesn't turn a camera that is mediocre at high ISO/low light into one that is great at low light. On the other hand, a camera that is good at ISO 25600 and higher is good in low light. Noise and other issues are present regardless of whether the lens is an F1.4 or an F4 for it's maximum opening. Generally speaking a camera that contributes little noise from its electronics (ISO invariant), has large pixel sites (better light gathering), and has a large sensor (lower magnification to attain a particular image size) will qualify as a low light/high ISO camera. This pretty much eliminates any traditional point and shoot camera with tiny sensors.

An example of what I am talking about would be what camera/lens to use to shoot sporting events at night. A night baseball game provides enough light for an exposure value (EV) of around 8. For depth of field purposes, a photographer may want to use an aperture of F4 or even F5.6 with a long lens. A camera like a D300 that is already starting to show noisy shadows at ISO 800 would be an absolutely terrible choice in this situation. An F2.8 lens used wide open will provide a shutter speed of 1/500 at ISO 800 if used wide open. That would be the limit if using a D300 - higher ISO would be too noisy, and a lens with an F2 or F1.4 would only give a stop or two more "wiggle room" and a lot less depth of field. The only fast teles in this realm would be the 200mm F2, 300 and 400mm F2.8. You can forget about anything with a wider max aperture. Not a lot to work with there. In contrast, a camera like a D3S/D4/D5 - with a usable ISO of 25,600 for the D3S will let you shoot at F5.6 and still have an action-freezing 1/4000 sec. I'm sure you agree that the D300 is not a good low light camera regardless of what lens you put on it, and the D3S is, even if you use a lens that has a maximum aperture of 5.6.

That's why I called pure nonsense to your statement.

I don't care about being right - but it is entertaining to watch you get frustrated when I am. Have an amazing rest of your day. . .



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RX10M4, 1/60, F3.5, ISO 6400

(Download)

D300, 1/1000, F8 ISO 1600

(Download)

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

I said it solves "a lot of the problems", not all of the problems.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Yes, broad interpretation .......how about non-interchangeable lens camera /P&S/bridge camera - all the same to me ....sensor sizes will differ tho ....and calibers !
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Ryeley Loc: Springfield, Ohio

I think it is better to look at the sensor and see how it is rated in low light. I was looking at the specs for the Nikon z6 and z7. Both have the same physical sensor size, but the Z6 is around 25 Megapixels and the Z7 is 46. What that means is the pixels on the Z7 are much smaller. as a result the Z6 is said to be better in low light because it has larger pixels to grab more light. After that you will want to find a lens that is good in low light.